Close



Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: AOD question...

  1. #1
    New User
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Texas Hill Country
    Posts
    19

    Default AOD question...

    Swapped an early 70's 351 with a rebuilt AOD into my fox... Ive not really put many miles on it, just some minor road testing. My dilemma is this.. My starter is kinda week, and when hot, it struggles. So I thought, I'll just get a new high torque one.. That led me to the, "ok I need a 164 tooth flywheel starter... Then for some reason I got side tracked on what flywheels work with the AOD swap...Now Im wondering if I have the right flywheel in my car. It definitely is an early 70's 351w. Starter works fine when cold. trans seems to be shifting fine, and my TV pressures are good at 35 PSI in neutral with the Lokar block and less than 5 when block removed...
    I guess if I had the wrong flywheel it would have toasted the pump by now ?

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    I am not the AOD nor automatic expert by any means, but since I have been dealing with one for my 86 Bronco, I will try and help out. My understanding is all AOD flexplates are 164 tooth as that is what the bellhousing is cast for. Using a 157 tooth would cause the starter to not engage the ring gear properly.
    After that the flexplate comes down to imbalance of the engine, the 351w is 28.2oz and the 1982 year model was when Ford officially switched the 302 to 50oz imbalance. (yes late production code 1981 model 302 will have the 50oz imbalance due to 82 year model starting in late 1981 )

    That pretty much covers it, other than possible converter bolt pattern differences, I have not run into that issue myself, but it appears to be a possible problem depending on what you are using. If you had the wrong balance flexplate then you would have a vibration in the engine. Don't believe it would cause damage to the pump at least not with limited mileage on it. Not seating the converter properly is usually what destroys the pump and it does some immediately upon start up. DON'T ask me how I know that . . .
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3
    New User
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Texas Hill Country
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Thanks. I know its a 351w and 164 tooth 28 oz... TRans went in fine and no issues getting convertor seated and bolted up. Just got worried after reading all the stuff online. Still getting this AOD worked out. Not exactly happy with its downshifting. It does shift at the "advertised" speeds. Finally get this old gal running/driving and the rear main decides to start dripping.. Just not in the mood to pull the motor right now..

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Olathe, Kansas
    Posts
    2,108

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dcs13 View Post
    Finally get this old gal running/driving and the rear main decides to start dripping.. Just not in the mood to pull the motor right now..
    You didnt replace it with the trans out????
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  5. #5
    New User
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Texas Hill Country
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mcb82gt View Post
    You didnt replace it with the trans out????
    Well, the motor was "fresh" when I bought it. And its a 2 piece, so the motor pretty much has to come out. It can be done in the car, but I hear thats a HUGE pita , so I'll pull it if it gets too bad.
    Funny thing, Ive got another project in the shop, its a long term one. For no apparent reason the 9 inch started leaking fluid last week as well. Thing hasnt been on road in years and just get pushed around while I do body work.. Just starts leaking..

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dcs13 View Post
    Well, the motor was "fresh" when I bought it. And its a 2 piece, so the motor pretty much has to come out. It can be done in the car, but I hear thats a HUGE pita , so I'll pull it if it gets too bad.
    Funny thing, Ive got another project in the shop, its a long term one. For no apparent reason the 9 inch started leaking fluid last week as well. Thing hasnt been on road in years and just get pushed around while I do body work.. Just starts leaking..
    Did you just experience a cold front come through. I know my buddy lives in Leander and he was complaining about the cold. That alone can cause leaking issues when metal shrinks slightly due to the colder weather. Then suddenly stops once it warms up again. I have a bushing noise in my Super Duty that only happens in the winter up here. Once we warm up it goes away. All the bushings are new and tight as heck, but every winter it comes back.

    One option for the rear main in the vehicle would be the sleeve on the crankshaft itself. I have never done it in the vehicle, but you might be able to install the sleeve and that added thickness might be enough to stop the leaking assuming the rear main seal isn't damaged and is in good shape. I HATE two piece rear seals! Actually thinking about getting my earlier blocks machined for the one piece just because of the headaches they cause. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •