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  1. #1

    Question I need to store my bare block in the garage over winter - suggestions and ideas?

    Hello everyone,

    I came across a hardly used bare block (might not be used at all, but was originally a crate engine) and I wont be assembling it any time soon.

    Currently, I don't see any rust so I was planning on using a good, thick oil but I'm not sure whether or not to put a bag over it. I live in Michigan, and my garage is detached, so if I go out there and turn on the torpedo heater I think I'll see condensation on everything. Would the bag be good or bad?

    Maybe a desiccant would be a good idea, but I don't know where to get one?

    Suggestions/ideas?

    Thanks all!

  2. #2

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    I would use lithium grease to coat everything with a nice thick coat. Wrap it in a bag with some desiccant and wait for warmer weather!

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Worked material handling at a Romulus warehouse 2000-2013. GM Romulus Powertrain was main contract customer.
    When GM was ending production of Northstar engines at Livonia Engine, we warehoused couple hundred dressed service engines.
    Engines in their shipping racks were wrapped in thick hd clear plastic bags with desiccant bags inside.
    The bags weighed couple pounds shaped like bags of rice or something.

    Warehouse was for v6 and v8 LS. Was 'climate controlled'.
    Completed dressed engines were in shipping racks and not protected with wrap waiting to be shipped to assy plants.
    Service short blocks had valley covers and spark plugs installed.
    New engine parts were protected in their containers one way or another.
    Most of it sat for only a few weeks. Inventory was JIT
    Bare iron blocks came in painted and had a oily coating while being stored short term for the engine plant to order them.
    Bare iron blocks with any surface rust were tagged and cleaned by qc. Not one speck of rust was allowed.

    Fogging oil may be one option to coat. Most say do not use WD40. Some like waxy base oil, atf.
    Damp Rid is a brand of decc. found in big box home stores, hardware, possibly Meijers too.
    Couple 55 gal hd trash bags work fine to wrap and seal.

    Rebuilt my 2.3 in 2000. After power washing, stowed engine intact and covered until tear down.
    Engine shop tank cleaned the bare block later on for machining.
    Bare block was sprayed, bagged, stowed in plastic container, in shed, a year until build time. No decc, no rust.
    During engine build on stand, was bagged between sessions to keep it clean as possible.
    Last edited by gr79; 11-05-2021 at 02:51 PM.

  4. #4

  5. #5

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    Fluid Film, works great.

  6. #6

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    A desiccant in a bag will be a great method once you have the surfaces protected. Go to www.mcmaster.com and search for desiccants. Loads of options.
    W

    As always, "It ain't what you don't know that gets you, it's what you think you know that just ain't so."

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    I have had a partially built 289 in my moms garage for over 20 years. The crank is in and there is one piston. I have coated the cylinders in WD40 and wrapped it in a couple garbage bags. It has been a couple years since I pulled the bag off and looked at it but it looked the same as it did 20 years ago. I sprayed more WD40 on the cylinders and covered it up. It is about time I look at it again. By the way, I will mention my moms garage is totally insulated so there is not much moisture in there.
    Every winter I say I am going to bring it home and finish putting the short block together but I have done that yet. I don't have a vehicle for it anyway so it is no big hurry.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  8. #8

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    Boesheild...

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudgepondexpress View Post
    Boesheild...
    Yah T-9
    Works great on bicycle chains.
    Drip bottle more economical for chains, spray version for engines.

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