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  1. #1
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Default crush sleeve eliminators

    there was a question in my 86GT supporter showcase thread about crush sleeve eliminators.

    This is what I used: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-55040


    Now ..... if only I could figure out why I can't post to my own thread in there and I can't send or receive any private messages! I also can't post pictures to any of the threads anymore either! ARG
    -- James

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  2. #2

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    James —
    Thanks for sharing this. In the middle of replacing pinion seal on mine. This is a great alternative to that dang crush sleeve!
    84.5 GT Convertible Build Thread
    86 LX Coupe

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member bwguardian's Avatar
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    When I replaced my pinion seal several years back, I counted how many rotations it took to get the pinion nut off. Once off, I replaced the seal and tightened the nut back to it's original position plus 1/4-1/2 turn. It's been fine with no noise or leaks, but it's a weekend toy and I don't drive the car much.
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  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwguardian View Post
    When I replaced my pinion seal several years back, I counted how many rotations it took to get the pinion nut off. Once off, I replaced the seal and tightened the nut back to it's original position plus 1/4-1/2 turn. It's been fine with no noise or leaks, but it's a weekend toy and I don't drive the car much.
    That much extra tightening of the pinion nut will surely cause excessive preload on the bearings. When setting the preload with new bearings and crush sleeve, as little as a few degrees tighter can be the difference to change the preload from too loose to just right to too tight.

    If you are reusing a crush sleeve and bearings during a seal replacement, the best bet is to simply re-torque the nut to the minimum required torque spec.

    While those kits look nice for new setups, it would be near impossible to get the preload right with just a seal change. You would be guessing at best that it was correct without being able to measure the rotational resistance of the pinion which must be done without the crown gear and carrier in place.
    Last edited by BMW Rider; 11-30-2021 at 10:17 AM.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    That much extra tightening of the pinion nut will surely cause excessive preload on the bearings. When setting the preload with new bearings and crush sleeve, as little as a few degrees tighter can be the difference to change the preload from too loose to just right to too tight.

    If you are reusing a crush sleeve and bearings during a seal replacement, the best bet is to simply re-torque the nut to the minimum required torque spec.

    While those kits look nice for new setups, it would be near impossible to get the preload right with just a seal change. You would be guessing at best that it was correct without being able to measure the rotational resistance of the pinion which must be done without the crown gear and carrier in place.
    Thanks, Ed. Mainly wanted to know the eliminator part # for future reference. Agreed on keeping the crush sleeve for now. Not planning on digging in deeper and keeping the stock ratio at this time. Book calls for a minimum of 140 ft-lbs on the pinion nut. I'll do that and check preload with my inch-lb wrench and see where I am. It was about 8 in-lbs with the old seal before removing ó a little on the loose side. This was with the carrier in place and axles removed. Mileage on this thing is unknown. Outer pinion bearing looks good with no pitting or discoloration, and the rest of the inside of this thing looks ok with no obvious issues... maybe I'll get lucky.
    84.5 GT Convertible Build Thread
    86 LX Coupe

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by graphicdesigner80 View Post
    Thanks, Ed. Mainly wanted to know the eliminator part # for future reference. Agreed on keeping the crush sleeve for now. Not planning on digging in deeper and keeping the stock ratio at this time. Book calls for a minimum of 140 ft-lbs on the pinion nut. I'll do that and check preload with my inch-lb wrench and see where I am. It was about 8 in-lbs with the old seal before removing — a little on the loose side. This was with the carrier in place and axles removed. Mileage on this thing is unknown. Outer pinion bearing looks good with no pitting or discoloration, and the rest of the inside of this thing looks ok with no obvious issues... maybe I'll get lucky.
    Any reason you did not remove the carrier (ring gear)? At not even a ft-lb, seems almost guaranteed even just the carrier bearings are going to change that (unless you are just putting it back to what it was, I guess).
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by OX1 View Post
    Any reason you did not remove the carrier (ring gear)? At not even a ft-lb, seems almost guaranteed even just the carrier bearings are going to change that (unless you are just putting it back to what it was, I guess).
    Didn't want to get that deep in this thing. It has 2.73 ratio and if it was pulled I'd be breaking the law if I didn't upgrade to at least a 3.55. Getting it sealed up is the goal for now. Trying not to pull the thread and have the whole sweater unravel... at least that's the plan.

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by graphicdesigner80 View Post
    Didn't want to get that deep in this thing. It has 2.73 ratio and if it was pulled I'd be breaking the law if I didn't upgrade to at least a 3.55. Getting it sealed up is the goal for now. Trying not to pull the thread and have the whole sweater unravel... at least that's the plan.
    I hear ya, LOL!! But pulling 4 diff bearing cap bolts and reinstalling is usually just hair easier than setting up new gears.
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  9. #9

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    Man, where was this when I was doing mine?! I would DEFINITELY have gotten it. I thought I was stuck with my 4.10s because I'd gotten so lucky setting them up. Tighten the last bolt, put up your hands and slowly back away... but maybe some 3.73s are on the horizon....
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
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