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  1. #1

    Default Eibach Rear Sway Bar issues

    Been gone a while but getting back to it. Tried to install the rear sway bar from the Eibach kit into the stock rear lower control arms of a 1979 Mustang Cobra Hatchback. The area behind the rear mounting hole of the bar hits the control arm so that the bar does not go in far enough to get the second bolt in. Not really in a financial position to purchase aftermarket arms. Thought about elongating the bolt holes. Figured persuading the control arm with a BFH was probably a bad idea. What is everyone opinion for an easy fix? Or have others had issues?

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member racerxmd's Avatar
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    Did you put car on jack stands while doing the install? Pics?

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by racerxmd View Post
    Did you put car on jack stands while doing the install? Pics?
    Thanks for the response. We had the jack stands under the frame rail in front of the lower control arm mounts because we had to drop one of the lower control arms to get the mounting bracket bolt out. I can try to get pictures today of where it is hitting.

    Last edited by toaster; 10-17-2021 at 07:40 PM.

  4. #4

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    Your images take forever to download for me. I would get the car at ride height in the rear and see if that helps?
    79 Zephyr, 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs.

  5. #5

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    I can try to resize them when I get home they came straight from the phone. Not sure putting it on the ground is going to change anything but willing to try it.

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I will have to double check, but I believe the early model 4 Eyes had an additional bracket that bolted to the arms and the sway bar bolted to that. I vaguely remember something like that on my 79 Pace Car. I will try and see if I have any old photos that show that. Maybe another member can post up and confirm or deny my thoughts.
    ​Trey

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  7. #7

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    Resized the images.

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I will have to double check, but I believe the early model 4 Eyes had an additional bracket that bolted to the arms and the sway bar bolted to that. I vaguely remember something like that on my 79 Pace Car. I will try and see if I have any old photos that show that. Maybe another member can post up and confirm or deny my thoughts.
    It does have the bracket that the original bar bolted to but of course those bolt holes are narrower than the holes on the bar but the holes in the arms are the right distance. Are the lower control arms different on newer foureyes?

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    On my 79 cobra, replaced the rr lower control arm with one from an 85 SVO
    Needed to drill one new hole to reuse the trx sway bar.
    I think it was to match the trx bar mount bracket to the SVO arm, which had different hole spacing.
    Sort of the opposite issue.
    Drilled the bracket, not the arm, to match the SVO arm hole spacing while keeping sway bar squared up.
    Bolted bracket to one existing hole in the SVO arm, then marked and drilled one new hole in the bracket to match the other SVO bolt hole.
    I imagine the same could be done if the new sway bar has different hole spacing.
    The trx bracket is wide enough for limited mods.
    Newer arms went to an oval front bushing except for SVO, which was still round.
    Dunno if its ok to grind flats where the bar binds if not using the brackets or spread the arm a bit wider.
    Both sides the same?
    Last edited by gr79; 10-18-2021 at 08:09 PM.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    On my 79 cobra, replaced the rr lower control arm with one from an 85 SVO
    Needed to drill one new hole to reuse the trx sway bar.
    I think it was to match the trx bar mount bracket to the SVO arm, which had different hole spacing.
    Sort of the opposite issue.
    Drilled the bracket, not the arm, to match the SVO arm hole spacing while keeping sway bar squared up.
    Bolted bracket to one existing hole in the SVO arm, then marked and drilled one new hole in the bracket to match the other SVO bolt hole.
    I imagine the same could be done if the new sway bar has different hole spacing.
    The trx bracket is wide enough for limited mods.
    Newer arms went to an oval front bushing except for SVO, which was still round.
    Dunno if its ok to grind flats where the bar binds if not using the brackets or spread the arm a bit wider.
    Both sides the same?
    Thanks for all that information. Yes the bar hits the same spot on both sides which keeps it from going up far enough to get the rear bolts in. Are there any problems using the oval bushing control arms in the 79 or did you just use the SVO one because you only had to replace one side?

    Think I found my answer the round ones are supposed to be better for performance because they do no allow for as much movement.
    Last edited by toaster; 10-19-2021 at 11:58 AM.

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Yes suspected a need for replacing control arms someday soon due to a clunking noise back there.
    Car would clunk and noticeably yaw when on or off the gas.
    Was at a pic a part yard one day looking around for parts and found a SVO.
    Someone had already removed all but one bolt. What luck. Took 5 minutes to get it. Bushings were in good shape.
    When the time came, found the front bushing in the old arm was torn up. Replaced arm, no more clunk or yawing.
    I believe oval bushing control arms would work fine. Read the same thing about them.
    If i drove hard or had a lot of added hp, would prob do what the others do.
    Am not fond of poly bushings. They deteriorated faster than rubber in this climate.
    Switched ft swaybar and link bushings back to rubber. Noticed no difference in performance.
    Rear of car is all rubber factory spec bushings. Upper arms are the Ford HD ones.

    If it were my bar, id get the grinder out and flatten out the sides of the bar just enough to clear.
    Or reuse plates to mount it lower like the trx.
    The arm is stamped but would need the right tool with tons of pressure to spread it open a bit for clearance.
    Could always call Eibach toll free see what they say.

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