So, I did a thing. '85 Marquis LTS

[Chuck W]

Well, the wife got to drive it for the first time today. I was finishing up the steering rack replacement in her 850 wagon and she needed to do the weekly grocery run. She seemed to enjoy it, and I think she'll get a better handle on it as she drives it more. I also teased her that it was 4 years older than she was .

I don't name my cars, but she does. She has dubbed this one "Natasha", as in the Black Widow. I'll allow it.


I decided my plan for the rear suspension on this thing. I'm grabbing another set of Mustang rear control arms and modifying them. Going to box them and install poly bushings. I'll also replace the axle ear bushings with new rubber pieces. I'm also going to do the "anti-squat" mod to the RLCA mount at the axle. This will also bring the rear end down just a touch.

Another task on the to-do list is a power steering fluid transfusion. Just need to pump some of the crud out of it. Steering assist seems fine, but is a bit "stiff".

[Chuck W]

Been doing a little "bench racing" for a possible future engine swap for this thing.

The plan for this car is for it to be driven and enjoyed. We're not doing any kind of concourse restoration on it and not really beholden to keeping it "original".

Mentally, I think I've settled on the 3.7 NA V6 for it, and keeping it an auto. I know everyone gets a chub for a 5.0 Coyote swap (which are cool), but that extra power (and expense) isn't really needed for this car. 305hp and 30mpg sounds like a good option, if you ask me. Especially coming from the anemic CFI 5.0 and AOD and going into a car that is lighter than the original applications for this engine.

Just beginning some information gathering, mainly for the engine/trans management. Looks like I can do an aftermarket ECU and even TCU, or using the stock stuff is possible with programming changes (I think SCT Tuning was a mentioned source, mainly for disabling a few stock systems). I think the route depends on what I wind up with, I suppose. Getting a complete donor vehicle will probably be more difficult, but I guess we'll see.

Anyway, going to keep digging into the management options and such while I work on other areas of the car. Rear suspension and AC are currently next on the list.

[massacre]

3.7 engine is no slouch. I am not super familiar with that engine, but it definitely put up some impressive numbers.
I wish you luck, controlling the engine will be most important to get those impressive numbers.
Great choice.

[Chuck W]

3.7 engine is no slouch. I am not super familiar with that engine, but it definitely put up some impressive numbers.
I wish you luck, controlling the engine will be most important to get those impressive numbers.
Great choice.

This is why I'd like to do factory, if I can. It's just the logistics of getting a whole, most likely wrecked, car here that are the issue.

[ZephyrEFI]

But an LTS is supposed to have a V8. That's what makes it what it is. A 3.7 in a regular Marquis would be cool, but in an LTS....

[massacre]

Keep the V8, sell it with the car?

[Chuck W]

The LTD LX/LTS were meant to be solid/balanced performers with 4 doors. In the '80's there wasn't much choice for a powerplant to power such a vehicle.

I'm not stuck on it "needing" a V8. I don't want to dump $$ into building a SB 5.0, nor do I want the expense of a Coyote swap. I have no love for the 4.6 motors, either.

I did find a swap of a 3.7 into a '99 Mustang, which basically gives me a good proof-of-concept for a Fox swap using factory controls.

This car is not going to be a garage queen, it's going to be a driver. Also, not just a driver for me.

The car is living a better life with us than it has been for the past decade (or more) languishing and rotting.

[wdanison43103]

I say go for the 3.7! It’s not like these cars are sought after, even the rare ones such as an LTS. 300hp and 30mpg would be perfect for a car to actually drive an enjoy.

While on the topic of more modern power plants into older cars, I’ve been kicking around the idea of swapping a 2.0 Ecoboost into either a 94 mustang (3.8/AODE) or if I end up with it in my possession, a 1970 Mercury Cougar. The little 2.0 with bolt ons has a near identical power curve as a bolt on SBF and can get 30+ mpgs.

So go for it and let us know how it turns out!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Chuck W]

Still messing with the "stiff" throttle just off idle. I have traced it down to it being the throttle blades are being "held" by engine vacuum, and it takes an extra bit to over come that. (The pedal is perfectly smooth when the engine isn't running)

I've been trying to figure out an adjustment on the CFI that would allow me to crack the throttle a bit at idle, but I haven't been successful with that.


All of the parts for the AC are here, so once I get the fuel system back in the F150 (going from a dual to single tank) I'll probably mess with that.

Need to get the old bushings out of the RLCAs and get the boxing plates welded to upper and lowers and get the poly bushings installed too.

[Bryan Knebworth]

Wow that's so wierd, you are just like "Meh, its a factory 5.0 Marquis LTS, but I'm paying no mind to that, and installing a V6." Huh?

We were all celebrating that "1 of 135" stat, and you are pretending its my ex-girlfriend's car from 1990--a 1983 LTD II 3.8, or my buddies 1984 Marquis, also 3.8.

I think I'm missing something here, and will return to the '79-'93 Realm of Capris and Mustangs!

Install what you'd like though, that's what makes this hobby so enjoyable

JeffClean, For The Win...

Been doing a little "bench racing" for a possible future engine swap for this thing.

The plan for this car is for it to be driven and enjoyed. We're not doing any kind of concourse restoration on it and not really beholden to keeping it "original".

Mentally, I think I've settled on the 3.7 NA V6 for it, and keeping it an auto. I know everyone gets a chub for a 5.0 Coyote swap (which are cool), but that extra power (and expense) isn't really needed for this car. 305hp and 30mpg sounds like a good option, if you ask me. Especially coming from the anemic CFI 5.0 and AOD and going into a car that is lighter than the original applications for this engine.

Just beginning some information gathering, mainly for the engine/trans management. Looks like I can do an aftermarket ECU and even TCU, or using the stock stuff is possible with programming changes (I think SCT Tuning was a mentioned source, mainly for disabling a few stock systems). I think the route depends on what I wind up with, I suppose. Getting a complete donor vehicle will probably be more difficult, but I guess we'll see.

Anyway, going to keep digging into the management options and such while I work on other areas of the car. Rear suspension and AC are currently next on the list.

[Chuck W]

So, I found this coolant manifold in my parts stash, so I went ahead and installed it and relocated the gauge sender there. I stuck the stock temp switch back into the stock location. We'll see if the gauge reads any better with it located here.



The other switch is for when I install the electric fan on it. I'll probably use that Volvo fan I have, that also has a nice relay set-up on it. I'll be able to use the 2-speed controls and also connect it to run (on low) when the AC is switched on and have the high-speed for when the switch kicks it on at 200*.

Will probably mess with all of that when we get back from vacation in a couple weeks.

[massacre]

That manifold is a cool piece!

[Chuck W]

I want to say it's a stock part. Just don't remember the application.

This one had a mounting bracket on it, but there wasn't a good place to locate it in the current situation. Seeing as the senders/switches are going to need a ground reference to work, I just attached a ground wire to the bracket and attached that to a ground spot on the body (You can see it on the firewall in the background of the pic)

[Chuck W]

Started on the e-fan and AC stuff this afternoon.

Started with getting the fan in place and installing the new AC condenser.

Seeing as I have a bunch of the Volvo 850 fans and a couple of shrouds, I went ahead an used one of those. They also have a nice 2-speed relay set-up.

The shroud was a pretty close fit and just had to trim up a couple bits.



It was a little short, so I used the old bracket from the fan install that was in the TBird (Going to use a Contour fan set there now). Just a couple small mods, and it was ready.



I went ahead and tucked the fan inside the shroud for a bit more clearance, and mounted the relay set-up on the shroud.



Before I mounted it all up, I stuck the new condenser in place.


All mounted.



I'm waiting on a MAXI fuse holder to run the power, and I need to run the signal wire from the temp switch to the high-speed trigger on the relay. I'll be using the low-speed to trigger the fan when the AC is turned on.


Next step is to get all of the AC hoses and drier swapped out and buttoned up and pull a vacuum on the system. If it holds, then I'll charge it up with R134 and hopefully have AC.

It was also bonus time at work, so on the rear suspension, I opted to buy some Maximum Motorsports RLCA (Adjustable) instead of messing with boxing up a set of stock lowers. Those should arrive in the next week or so.

[massacre]

Nice job, looks great!

[Patrick Olsen]

I missed the details on the fan - I understand it's a Volvo 850 shroud, but what's the actual fan? Fits quite nicely into that shroud!

[Chuck W]

I missed the details on the fan - I understand it's a Volvo 850 shroud, but what's the actual fan? Fits quite nicely into that shroud!

It's the 850 fan. I just trimmed it to mount it inside the shroud, instead of on the back of it. It would've hit the H2O pump pulley had I not. This shroud is the NA one. The only difference between it and the turbo one is that the turbo one has some cutouts on the right side of it, to allow for better flow through the intercooler that is mounted in front of the rad. Had I take more care when cutting the top bits off, I could've used the original mounting holes on the radiator top. On the DS, it was fine, but on the PS, I cut it too low and didn't have enough material at the top to drill a hole. I just drilled another hole in the top flange on the rad next to the original one, and used an area where I had more room to run a bolt through.

The "fan tuck" is a mod the 850 guys do to give a little more "working room" between the fan and the engine. I did it recently on my wife's '97 turbo wagon when we needed to replace the radiator.

I'm waiting on the MAXI fuse holder and I'm probably going to run a 60A fuse in there. The fans amp draw spikes pretty good on start-up, but settles into a reasonable draw after that. I might be able to go lower, but we'll see what it does when It's all completed.

I was working on installing the AC lines today but ran into a snag. The new line from the drier to the compressor doesn't have that 1/2 cut out on the pipe, and it fouls out on the mating bit inside the manifold on top of the compressor. I couldn't get that insert out of the stock piece, so I ordered a couple new manifolds for the top of the compressor from LMR. It's always something...

I also got a note from Maximum Motorsports that my RLCAs are on back order...even though that said they had stock when I ordered. Guess I'll get the upper arms and bushings done ahead of time.

[OX1]

It's the 850 fan. I just trimmed it to mount it inside the shroud, instead of on the back of it. It would've hit the H2O pump pulley had I not. This shroud is the NA one. The only difference between it and the turbo one is that the turbo one has some cutouts on the right side of it, to allow for better flow through the intercooler that is mounted in front of the rad. Had I take more care when cutting the top bits off, I could've used the original mounting holes on the radiator top. On the DS, it was fine, but on the PS, I cut it too low and didn't have enough material at the top to drill a hole. I just drilled another hole in the top flange on the rad next to the original one, and used an area where I had more room to run a bolt through.

The "fan tuck" is a mod the 850 guys do to give a little more "working room" between the fan and the engine. I did it recently on my wife's '97 turbo wagon when we needed to replace the radiator.

I'm waiting on the MAXI fuse holder and I'm probably going to run a 60A fuse in there. The fans amp draw spikes pretty good on start-up, but settles into a reasonable draw after that. I might be able to go lower, but we'll see what it does when It's all completed.

I was working on installing the AC lines today but ran into a snag. The new line from the drier to the compressor doesn't have that 1/2 cut out on the pipe, and it fouls out on the mating bit inside the manifold on top of the compressor. I couldn't get that insert out of the stock piece, so I ordered a couple new manifolds for the top of the compressor from LMR. It's always something...

I also got a note from Maximum Motorsports that my RLCAs are on back order...even though that said they had stock when I ordered. Guess I'll get the upper arms and bushings done ahead of time.

I run dual Taurus fans in my 79 bronco rock crawler rig and have used one of these for years.

http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm

Even if both at full song, I don't even need a 50 amp fuse
(Taurus fans only draw about 22 amps, not counting start up amps
which is upwards of 60).

Much more forgiving on the electrical system and fans, since
start up is super gradual and they can run at say 15% almost all the time,
to keep temps very even.

I even got the adjustable pot mounted inside to be able to set "base" temp +/- 20 degrees
on the fly

[Chuck W]

Yeah, those delta current controllers are pretty fancy. Not really looking to spend for that right now. The 2-speed set-up should suffice for the time being.

[Patrick Olsen]

It's the 850 fan. I just trimmed it to mount it inside the shroud, instead of on the back of it. It would've hit the H2O pump pulley had I not.
...
The "fan tuck" is a mod the 850 guys do to give a little more "working room" between the fan and the engine. I did it recently on my wife's '97 turbo wagon when we needed to replace the radiator.

Ahh, gotcha!

[mcb82gt]

Yeah, those delta current controllers are pretty fancy. Not really looking to spend for that right now. The 2-speed set-up should suffice for the time being.

I ran one for years on my 2.3T car, bought another one for my cougar 5.0 and Taurus fan. They really work well, but dang spendy for sure.

[Chuck W]

OK, I set out yesterday to get the cooling fan wired up and get the AC system closed up. Got the fan all wired, but it looks like my old temp switch is bad. Never did want to kick on. So I ordered a new one and went onto the next thing.

I got the compressor cleaned out and got all of the hoses and fittings installed and connected. I did run into one snag, however.

The new high-pressure line had the old, smaller R12 fitting on it, and none of the conversion fittings I had gotten were the proper ones.


I finished up what I could for the day and got cleaned up. While I was out picking up dinner, I stopped at the parts store and grabbed the proper fitting and another can of R134A. Stuck the fitting on after dinner.


Today the goal was to test and vacuum down the system, and then hopefully charge it up.

I put it on the vac pump for around 45 min or so


It drew down pretty nice. The angle of the pic to the low-side gauge shows it lower than it actually was. It was almost on -30.

After that, I jumpered the cooling fan on and started the car up. Then I turned the AC in inside on MAX and jumpered the AC clutch pressure cycling switch to get the compressor to go. Then I started adding freon.

After a little bit of work and dealing with a bad can of r134a, I wound up here.



Air was blowing cold, and the final pressures wound up to be around 35 psi on the low and 290 on the high.

As I was taking things apart, I discovered a leak on the adapter fitting I had installed on the low-side (I almost just used the R12 connection, as my gauges worked for that too, but I installed the retrofit fitting). After some fiddling with the valve core, it finally stopped hissing, and I checked pressures, etc and it all looks good. Hopefully that isn't an issue in the future.

So, we have working AC in the car, but I need to finish up the cooling fan wiring. The new temp switch should fix the high-speed function, so that's easy enough.
For the low-side, I'm going to have that run when the AC is switched on. What I'll do for the ground trigger for that is intercept the feed for the clutch cycling pressure switch. That is live whenever the AC is kicked on. I'll use that to trigger a relay that will ground out the trigger for the low-speed fan. After that, we're good for conditioned air, as well as a good solid cooling fan set-up.

[massacre]

Looking good chuck!

[ukravit]

Good gawd man do you ever sleep? Seriously, never less than impressed with every update you post.

[Chuck W]

Ope!



More when I get it all back to the house.