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  1. #276

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    Well, over the weekend I was able to get the diff rebuilt.


    I get it back together and check the axle slop. It's better but still way over spec.
    Factory limits are 0.005" to 0.030". I was still at 0.040" and 0.050". I think the issue is most likely these Moser axles. I don't have the original axles to compare any longer, but I don't see anything else being the culprit.

    The factory manual suggests shims under the c-clips, to take up the excess, so that's what I did.


    I cut out a couple of shims for each side and now my axial play is 0.007" and 0.012". I'm going to leave that as it sits.

    Now just waiting for the gear oil to arrive and I can get the car back on the ground.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS

  2. #277

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    That's a great idea, shimming the C clips.
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  3. #278
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Jan 2004
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    Olathe, Kansas
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    2,071

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck W View Post

    I cut out a couple of shims for each side and now my axial play is 0.007" and 0.012". I'm going to leave that as it sits.

    Now just waiting for the gear oil to arrive and I can get the car back on the ground.
    What were the shims made of?
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  4. #279

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    Quote Originally Posted by mcb82gt View Post
    What were the shims made of?
    Metal shim stock material.

    The instructions in the manual really aren't that great. They say to cut the shims to match the c-clips, but that doesn't work if you need a bigger shim than what the groove in the axle allows for. I had to cut the inside of the shim out more to match the OD of the axle.

    No worries of them going anywhere, seeing as they're under the c-clip in the recess of the end gears of the diff.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS

  5. #280

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    Well, the gear oil showed up on Wed, so I was able to get the diff filled and that all buttoned up.

    Drove it this morning and removing the axle play has solved the problem. The odd looseness in the rear of the car seems to be gone. No more "shifting" feel as the suspension has taken a set when turning or that odd little dance it felt like the rear of the car was doing at speed when the axles would float a bit when following the road surface.

    I also swapped the speedo gear from a 19T to a 21T. It had been reading about 10% fast (as measured by checking against the mile (tenth mile) markers on the interstate. It's maybe off 1-2% now.

    Just need to zero in the front alignment, now that things are all settled.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS

  6. #281

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    So, the stat housing started to seep a bit the other day.



    The prospect of never having to do one of these again is more than enough reason to yeet the 5.0 far from this car.

    The fact that they never bothered to improve this design at all over the LONG course of the SBF lifetime is just sheer laziness. It's like it was an afterthought.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS

  7. #282

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    Got the stat all buttoned back up. Had to do it twice, because evidently the stat shifted on me the first time.

    Also needed to chase the threads on the longer bolt. Evidently its threads were boogered, and it messed up things on its way out.


    Should be good now.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS

  8. #283

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    Yikes
    glad you got it figured out
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  9. #284

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    Quote Originally Posted by massacre View Post
    Yikes
    glad you got it figured out
    Yeah, thanks. Just a frustrating design. Literally EVERY other engine I've worked on is leaps and bounds easier to replace something as simple as the thermostat.

    Hopefully this should be the state of the car until next season and I can just drive it. Going to keep it out of the wet/salt (I have the truck for that), but am going to try and drive it on the decent days.

    Going to collect more parts over the next few months while I work on a couple other projects that need attention (valve seals and cams on my 850, and getting the small solar array installed/wired on the house. Oh, and finally getting to that wiring revision on the Tbird fans.)
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS

  10. #285
    FEP Supporter Mustang Marty's Avatar
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    Nov 2004
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    Everett, Washington, United States
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    2,292

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    All they had to do is move the thermostat location to a top mount like a Cleveland or a Chevy

    The last time I did this, I broke the top bolt on my housing when I was replacing the thermostat. I ended up cutting off the housing so not to risk breaking the harder to access lower bolt. Extracting the top bolt was hard enough as it is.
    79 Mustang Coupe - Jade Green Metallic - 5.0 5Sp - Purchased 2006
    17 Mustang Convertible - Triple Yellow Tri-Coat - 3.7l Auto - Purchased 2020
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    85 ASC - McLaren 5.0 SC - ASC White - 5.0 CFI Auto - Owned 2004 - 2016
    98 Mustang - White - 3.8 5pd - Owned 1998 - 2001
    84 Mustang SSP - White - 5.0 5sp - Owned 1993 - 1998
    84 SVO - Charcoal - 2.3t 5Sp - Owned 1989 -1992
    79 Mustang Ghia - 5.0 Auto - Owned 1981 - 1986
    68 Mustang Coupe - 302 Auto, Yellow - Owned 1980 - 1981

  11. #286

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    Or even just raise the thing 1/2", so the bolts aren't obstructed. A vertical mount isn't bad, as long as you have easy access to all of the fasteners.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS

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