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  1. #1

    Default Vent - Drum Brake Install

    Hello All,

    I've swapped an 8.8 into my 85 and am having all kinds of trouble rebuilding the brakes.

    • I have the LMR rebuild kit
    • The new LMR adjuster lever does not have the small hole that retains the bottom (red) spring, so
    • I'm trying to use the old ones out of the 7.5" rear


    With help, I've tried to follow the install videos that LMR and others have posted on YouTube. Thus far it's been nothing but frustration:

    • I think every video I've found has some unfortunate edits - they show the start of installing the more difficult components and then cut to the component being completely installed
    • The LMR video makes no mention of the missing hole in their adjuster lever; it appears that they hook the spring onto the large oval hole at the top - but again, bad angles and creative editing
    • The videos show everything generally staying put as each component is installed. In my case, as soon as I try to install the last spring (no matter which one I install last), everything wants to fall apart.


    I've got the correct brake tools. I've had an extra set of hands. I've tried using clamps to hold things in place. At the end of (2) hours-long attempts, I end up putting everything back in the box to try again another day.

    Is it really this difficult or am I just an idiot? I did drum brakes on my Camaro back in the 80s and perhaps my memory is fading but it was not even close to being this frustrating.

    Any advice (or money for hard liquor) is appreciated.

    BG

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Ever since I was a teenager, I have sworn every drum brake job will be my last. I'm 47 now, and still cursing my way through them. If someone doesn't chime in with some specific help, I don't mind going out to the garage and yanking a wheel off of one to snap some pics.
    Last edited by Broncojunkie; 08-23-2021 at 07:28 AM.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
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  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member
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    I'm sure you aren't an idiot. Drum brakes can be a pain if you don't work on them very often. I watched the LMR video on their drum brake rebuild kit. Mind you I'm not looking at your drum brake setup. I see where they hook the red spring on the bottom into the adjustment lever. It looks like the red spring goes into the same slot on the adjustment lever that the end of the cable that installs onto the anchor pin at the top.

    I usually start with installing the pins and springs that retain the shoes to the backing plate and then work my way out from there. If those are installed the shoes and still move around, but they shouldn't fall off.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
    '95 SC 5 Speed
    '91 Crown Vic P72 351W
    '97 Thunderbird
    '85 Ford LTD Squire

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Broncojunkie View Post
    Ever since I was a teenager, I have sworn every drum break job will be my last. I'm 47 now, and still cursing my way through them. If someone doesn't chime in with some specific help, I don't mind going out to the garage and yanking a wheel off of one to snap some pics.
    +1. I always love watching videos where people just give a light tap to the outside of the drum and it slides right off. Most of the time nowadays you cannot get good access to the adjuster from the inside of the backing plate to adjust the shoes in if they give you access at all and/or the drum is rusted to the hub. I can't imagine what it must have been like to be a mechanic back in the day when every single brake job (front and rear) was a drum brake job. I guess it was just part of life and you dealt with it. For me it would be the equivalent of doing exhaust work day in and day out. We don't know how good we have it working with disc brakes all the time.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
    '95 SC 5 Speed
    '91 Crown Vic P72 351W
    '97 Thunderbird
    '85 Ford LTD Squire

  5. #5
    FEP Member
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    Hang in there, I will say that the 80's GM's are easier than the Ford's. The worst part I thought was trying to get the little cable up and around for the one spring or emergency brake return. Like others said, put the pins for the shoes in first, then try to put the adjusters and springs in. Good Luck!

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    I pay a shop to do rear brake drum reline work now.
    Keep forgetting where the primary shoe goes (rear of brake plate).
    Can't be bothered unless it is a home emergency repair like a wheel cylinder or brake line.
    Last one was on the Ranger, 9" same parts as Mustang.
    Arranged specifics on work done with shop, bought parts ahead of time, shop did the labor,
    265.00, 300 including parts (2013). RR Wheel drum, wheel cylinder, brake line, shoes, springs. DS was fine.
    I dab grease, follow spring install order, adj, etc but never seems to be as long lasting as someone else doing it.
    Helps to check in there every now and then. Last recent check found adj cable slipped off the self adjuster cable guide.
    Brake tools keep well a clear 1.00 clear plastic shoe box with top. Quart of brake fluid, spare brake lines always on hand.
    All new spare brake parts are kept in a green and white Bendix brake shoe box.
    Brake bleeding items also kept in a 1.00 clear plastic shoe box with top.
    All boxes easy to find when stored on shelf and everything stays clean and together to save a lot of time.
    Sure is piece of mind to have replaced entire brake line system on the 93 Ranger. OE was rusted badly.
    Mustang brake lines fair better so far. LTFT to caliper and cowl sections are oe.
    Learning the basic technique and having the right tools for brake bleeding is valuable to help keep system clean and safe.
    Found what seems and could be a big messy job can really be made easy and with correct results even under less than ideal conditions.

    Money saved by DIY can offset having a pro do work when desired.
    Last edited by gr79; 08-26-2021 at 12:35 PM.

  7. #7

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    Rule #1 when working on drum brakes is to only do one side of the car at a time.

    When you do everything in the correct order and have all three tools, everything goes together fairly easily. Pin shoes to backing plates. Make sure that the correct drum is in the front and back position. As the second drum is installed, install the adjuster at the bottom at the same time. Then do the springs and equalizer cable.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

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