Close



Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Lowell, Oregon
    Posts
    2,136

    Default For those who choose a FiTech system...

    I have been very happy with mine so far, probably around 1000 miles or more on it. The company has been real good about answering the questions and providing the support I needed. Instructions are decent, but don't address some important things (like setting the IAC stops). I think mine is the 30005 system (up to 600hp easy street) If you get one:

    Get an extra o-ring or two for the top of the ForceFuel unit (I am waiting to find out the specs and will post them here when I do). If you ever have to remove the top of the unit (see below) that o-ring will stretch just a bit and be impossible to reinstall without going redneck like I did.

    If you suddenly lose fuel pressure, just do a quick wire trace from power to unit to rule that out. I suck at electrical and it was still pretty easy for me to figure out on my own logically. In my case all was good (shockingly!). Turns out the orange 12v wire to the Forcefuel should start at 12v when the key is switched on, but it drops to zero over a few seconds if the car is not started. This is normal. I popped off the top and found that the short 2" hose that connects the pump to the outgoing HP line was ruptured, so pressurized fuel simply sprayed back inside and didn't pressurize the system. Free fix as I had some extra hose.

    All that above I know is common sense to many, but I always fear the unknown a bit. The car suddenly powered down on the way to town, I looked at the handheld and saw all air, no fuel, on the AF bar so knew it was probably a fuel thing.

    My redneck fix? The FF unit is only under carb pump pressure (what, 4-7 psi or so?) so I cut the o-ring to make the ends butt up to each other, a very small dab of black rtv at that seam, let it set sealed overnight before starting the car. As soon as I get the proper new o-ring I will replace it of course, but for now it works great with ZERO seepage/leaks.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member gt4494's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Chas. SC
    Posts
    613

    Default

    FYI, what you did is exactly how they make custom fit o-rings in the field. Only question would be if thee RTV will hold up the alcohol-gas we have now.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Chicago, south subs
    Posts
    2,136

    Default

    I have the 400HP kit on my Fairmont. No force fuel unit, just the inline pump with return. Seems to work great. People seem to blame the system for every problem they have, but in my experience it's usually something else. I had a hot start issue, slow crank, that I thought had something to do with the prime shot, but it ended up being a faulty battery cable. I never even set the IAC steps, the unit did itself. I guess my only complaint is the inline pump is kind of loud, but if I did an OEM style install on that it probably would be much quieter. By that, I mean better insulated from the frame; fuel lines as well. I suspect OEM type plastic fuel lines would transmit a lot less noise than the steel ones I used. But the car runs great. It's been on there for over 4 years now.

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Lowell, Oregon
    Posts
    2,136

    Default

    This one's been fine. When I commented about idle quality they mentioned the stops and told me how to adjust them.
    My electric carb pump out back feeding it is kinda loud prior to start up. I have some rubber I am going to use as a vibration/noise reducer when I feel like climbing under there. I mounted the carb pump on the side of the spare tire well. New rubber lines connect it to the steel along frame tubes as well as the steel in to the tank tubes. Fresh rubber hose under hood where the steel terminates at the driver side firewall.
    I like the Forcefuel unit as the constant fuel flow in/out of the FF tank keeps the HP pump nice and cool, even under hood. I was concerned my exhaust dumps would throw too much heat at a frame mounted unit. Plus both pumps are a cinch to get to and the FF u it has a gauge right on top.
    It's fun because some don't realize it's not a carb and point at the FF and say 'what's that?''.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Lowell, Oregon
    Posts
    2,136

    Default

    I'm going to start slowly building a stroker motor and it will be nice to change some computer values and bolt this kit right on the new motor.

    Picked up a good '89 motor. Hoping to sell off some un-needed parts. Heads, full intake, ... Motor is complete pan to intake. Even has accessories.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Lowell, Oregon
    Posts
    2,136

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gt4494 View Post
    FYI, what you did is exactly how they make custom fit o-rings in the field. Only question would be if thee RTV will hold up the alcohol-gas we have now.
    I'm hoping it lasts until the new o-ring arrives! I check it before each drive though. At least it's low pressure and not a constant submersion.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Lowell, Oregon
    Posts
    2,136

    Default

    New O ring en-route for free from FiTech.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •