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Thread: V6 Coolant leak

  1. #1
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
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    Default V6 Coolant leak

    3.8 LTD.
    Discovered a coolant leak that seems to be coming from between the timing cover and the block on the passenger side. I replaced the water pump a couple years ago and wondering if the leak could be from the bolts that pass through the cover into the water jacket. Honestly can't remember if I put sealant on those bolts when I reassembled it. Maybe I could pull those bolts one at a time and attempt to re-seal them? Don't want to pull the cover if I don't have to....

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    It has been many years since I have been into a 3.8 and I cannot recall which bolts go into water on that. It seems like if it were leaking past the threads it would be leaking at the head of the bolt since the gasket goes around the bolt holes. If it is leaking between the block and timing cover then I would think it would be the gasket. Hopefully it comes off. I recall having to chisel one of those in pieces off of a 3.8 one time. Luckily it was an engine I was rebuilding so it didn't matter.

    I have a similar leak on my LTD. I haven't investigated far enough to tell if it is between the engine and timing cover or timing cover and water pump. I'm pretending it isn't leaking for the time being.
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    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    gmatt, live for ever buddy.

    Check at the 4.48 to end mark on Basin Motorsports video.

    In fact, the first two videos, second page

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...63#post1927863


    Ford mixed 4.2 V8 ancillary especially to the totally new 3.8 liter Metric Essex 90. So the water pump interchanges, but every bolt and every aluminum part will corrode and fight you every step of the way like some sicko has taped blades to a rooster. G. Stirret did the engine design, it's clever and light, but doesn't suffer fools gladly due to the modular removable cover which was designed to integrate the Duraspark and TFI distributors into a way taller than 8.206 inch 4.2/5.0 tall deck 9.206 inch block. Everything is a mash of metric and imperial parts that even with regular oil and corresponding inhibitor changes...will Always rust and corrode and pock-mark with pitting corrosion.

    Your solution is networking here and patience. After you've removed and cleaned the parts, which is what you WILL have to do, you can be assured it will seal and work again with new fasteners. FoMoCo was forced to tool up in Canada, with a 348 pound engine that saved 5 miles per gallon with the same output as the 1980-1983 2bbl 4.2 liter. It's not a nice engine to degrease and de-leak, but if you are patent, you will nail it.

    Don't cheap out...follow Basin Motorsport lead and be brave and fix the mating surfaces.

    Everyone thinks....six cylinder engine, Big Easy. It's not. The downgrade from the perfect 255/302 engines to any six, it's always fought with some other service compromises. Sonce 1969, Ford took the early reliability out if it's economy engines until about 1996, when Ford poured money back into the design, service life and performance.

    The second video sumarises the plight every V6 83-87 Fox owner has. It's a labor of love to get them back into shape because almost no-one does the basic work on tending to the threads, Welsh plugs and cleaning processes needed on a aluminum headed 90 degree V6 with metric bolts.

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    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinVarnes View Post
    It has been many years since I have been into a 3.8 and I cannot recall which bolts go into water on that. It seems like if it were leaking past the threads it would be leaking at the head of the bolt since the gasket goes around the bolt holes. If it is leaking between the block and timing cover then I would think it would be the gasket. Hopefully it comes off. I recall having to chisel one of those in pieces off of a 3.8 one time. Luckily it was an engine I was rebuilding so it didn't matter.

    I have a similar leak on my LTD. I haven't investigated far enough to tell if it is between the engine and timing cover or timing cover and water pump. I'm pretending it isn't leaking for the time being.
    LOL, that's what I've been doing.

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    gmatt, live for ever buddy.

    Check at the 4.48 to end mark on Basin Motorsports video.

    In fact, the first two videos, second page

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...63#post1927863


    Ford mixed 4.2 V8 ancillary especially to the totally new 3.8 liter Metric Essex 90. So the water pump interchanges, but every bolt and every aluminum part will corrode and fight you every step of the way like some sicko has taped blades to a rooster. G. Stirret did the engine design, it's clever and light, but doesn't suffer fools gladly due to the modular removable cover which was designed to integrate the Duraspark and TFI distributors into a way taller than 8.206 inch 4.2/5.0 tall deck 9.206 inch block. Everything is a mash of metric and imperial parts that even with regular oil and corresponding inhibitor changes...will Always rust and corrode and pock-mark with pitting corrosion.

    Your solution is networking here and patience. After you've removed and cleaned the parts, which is what you WILL have to do, you can be assured it will seal and work again with new fasteners. FoMoCo was forced to tool up in Canada, with a 348 pound engine that saved 5 miles per gallon with the same output as the 1980-1983 2bbl 4.2 liter. It's not a nice engine to degrease and de-leak, but if you are patent, you will nail it.

    Don't cheap out...follow Basin Motorsport lead and be brave and fix the mating surfaces.

    Everyone thinks....six cylinder engine, Big Easy. It's not. The downgrade from the perfect 255/302 engines to any six, it's always fought with some other service compromises. Sonce 1969, Ford took the early reliability out if it's economy engines until about 1996, when Ford poured money back into the design, service life and performance.

    The second video sumarises the plight every V6 83-87 Fox owner has. It's a labor of love to get them back into shape because almost no-one does the basic work on tending to the threads, Welsh plugs and cleaning processes needed on a aluminum headed 90 degree V6 with metric bolts.
    Well it runs pretty good and is my daily. Only time will tell if I decide to bite the bullet and tear this thing apart to fix that leak...or do something else entirely. I have quite a few options at hand.

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    See https://youtu.be/YLbuY_AS6pE.

    Davin's got it down. If you are like me, you'll have a MIG welder, and that helps you lock the stud and clear it. The Essex built on the Windsor and Cleveland style water pump, but added a whole bunch of other aluminum to steel oxidization problems.

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    See https://youtu.be/YLbuY_AS6pE.

    Davin's got it down. If you are like me, you'll have a MIG welder, and that helps you lock the stud and clear it. The Essex built on the Windsor and Cleveland style water pump, but added a whole bunch of other aluminum to steel oxidization problems.
    When I changed the water pump, I didn't break any bolts. So that's good. I do have a mig welder if necessary though. I haven't decided yet whether it's coming apart. I snugged up the bolts going through the cover on that side. If it gets worse my decision will be made for me.

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