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  1. #1

    Default New distributor placement

    I have a new distributor ready to install and I have the engine (timing mark on balancer on 0) in TDC on compression stroke.

    My question is: When I place the distributor, should the rotor be pointing exactly at 1? Or a little before or after?

    I understand I need to micro adjust cc or cw once installed, but want the initial install as close as possible since it was a PITA to remove the old distributor and I now have the AC bracket off with easy access.

    Thank you in advance!

  2. #2

    Default

    Assume this is a carbed engine ?

    FWIW what usually works good for me is to move the engine until timing pointer is between 10-15 deg BTDC on compression stroke. Then I install distributor so that the rotor tip is lined up exactly dead center to the #1 cap terminal (be careful you are not 180 degrees out on the timing).

    It may take a bit of re-adjusting to get the vacuum canister in a good position when lining up the rotor. There seems to be a sweet spot where the distributor meshes in just the right position to allow for fine adjustments. If it wont go sometimes you can rotate the oil pump shaft slightly to a different spot (with a 1/4" deep socket) so the distributor and vacuum canister will sit in exactly the spot you want when installed. A bit of trial and error and the distributor should mesh in there eventually. Careful not to drop the socket down the hole into the engine if you are turning the oil pump shaft for obvious reasons LOL

    This usually gets the engine fired up right away for me anyways. Adjust timing from there.

    Hope that helps !!

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by at_the_junkyard View Post
    Assume this is a carbed engine ?

    FWIW what usually works good for me is to move the engine until timing pointer is between 10-15 deg BTDC on compression stroke. Then I install distributor so that the rotor tip is lined up exactly dead center to the #1 cap terminal (be careful you are not 180 degrees out on the timing).

    It may take a bit of re-adjusting to get the vacuum canister in a good position when lining up the rotor. There seems to be a sweet spot where the distributor meshes in just the right position to allow for fine adjustments. If it wont go sometimes you can rotate the oil pump shaft slightly to a different spot (with a 1/4" deep socket) so the distributor and vacuum canister will sit in exactly the spot you want when installed. A bit of trial and error and the distributor should mesh in there eventually. Careful not to drop the socket down the hole into the engine if you are turning the oil pump shaft for obvious reasons LOL

    This usually gets the engine fired up right away for me anyways. Adjust timing from there.

    Hope that helps !!
    Thanks and yep, carbureted '82 with upgraded cam and 4 barrel...I don't have the specs of the cam enough to inform timing.

    Is 10-15 degrees BTC a good standard for most V-8s as a starting point or is it always so specific to your setup?

    Thanks again!

  4. #4

    Default

    I'm not really an expert but it seems logical that is where a typical stock engine base timing might reside and it has served me well doing it this way.

    Also noticed this info somewhere on the instructions for installing an MSD distributor to do this way for initial setup. I suppose its not super critical as you fine adjust from there anyway. I usually set mine around 12-14 base timing.

  5. #5

    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by at_the_junkyard View Post
    I'm not really an expert but it seems logical that is where a typical stock engine base timing might reside and it has served me well doing it this way.

    Also noticed this info somewhere on the instructions for installing an MSD distributor to do this way for initial setup. I suppose its not super critical as you fine adjust from there anyway. I usually set mine around 12-14 base timing.
    Well thanks again for the reply. ...and it became more critical for me to get a good starting point since I had to remove the whole damn AC compressor/brackets to remove the old one! A new/non stuck one will help, but appreciate the advice that will make adjustment as easy as possible.

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default

    I do the same thing. One might call it 'pre-timing' the ignition. This way when you go to start it you stand a much better chance of being close. Makes for potentially easier starting and less after adjustment.

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    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

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  7. #7

    Default

    On mine with AC (83 style brackets) i find if you use a long 1/4" extension with a 1/2" socket and u-joint that you can get on the hold down bolt from the top putting it between the A/C lines on the compressor....but yeah sometimes the vacuum canister gets in the way especially to remove the distributor. I've noticed some canisters have rather significant size differences sometimes depending on exactly what you have.

    Another cool trick if your so inclined and have a spare cap you don't care about is to grind away the top material by #1 terminal so you can see the rotor tip and the spark action when its running.

    Cheers

  8. #8

    Default

    Thanks for all the help, everyone!

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