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Thread: Engine Removal

  1. #1

    Default Engine Removal

    Hello All,

    Never pulled an engine before so please forgive my ignorance. I want to pull just the engine, not the trans.

    Everything appears to be disconnected in the engine bay, the motor mounts are free, the bell housing bolts all removed, and the trans-to-bell housing bolts removed. The clutch cable has been removed from the fork

    I can lift the engine and pull it forward a little, but something seems "stuck". Eventually the engine kind of "springs" back toward whatever has me stuck.

    What am I missing/doing wrong?

    TIA,

    BG

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member
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    What car are you working on? Which transmission? For a manual trans I generally like to pull it out through the bottom. Could be the trans input shaft hanging up on the clutch. I am assuming the exhaust is unbolted and disconnected? Are you sure all wiring, grounding straps, hoses, etc. connecting the engine to the car are disconnected? Is the transmission supported at all? If it isn't it's just going to be flopping in the breeze once you do get the engine out. What may help is to lift the engine and support the front of the trans with a jack and lift that as you lift the engine to allow you to move the engine forward and off the trans input shaft and out of the car.
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinVarnes View Post
    What car are you working on? Which transmission? For a manual trans I generally like to pull it out through the bottom. Could be the trans input shaft hanging up on the clutch. I am assuming the exhaust is unbolted and disconnected? Are you sure all wiring, grounding straps, hoses, etc. connecting the engine to the car are disconnected? Is the transmission supported at all? If it isn't it's just going to be flopping in the breeze once you do get the engine out. What may help is to lift the engine and support the front of the trans with a jack and lift that as you lift the engine to allow you to move the engine forward and off the trans input shaft and out of the car.
    I guess I could have provided more info . . . . sorry.

    THe car is a GT with 302 and a T-5. Exhaust is off the car. All wires, hoses, etc. are disconnected including ground straps.

    I think it may very well be the input shaft . . . . we'll give your guidance a shot and post back this weekend.

    Thanks much.

  4. #4
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    As Kevin stated you want to support the transmission if leaving it in the car. Another quick point, if you removed the transmission to bellhousing bolts, you will want to reinstall those before moving forward. Make sure you have the grounds on the back of the engine to the firewall removed also.

    Lift the engine up with the hoist and after a couple of pumps, place a jack under the front of the transmission just behind the bellhousing. Continue to jack up the engine and then jack up the transmission until the transmission tops out against the floor pan. If the engine mounts are clear of the K member you can yank the engine forward and that should allow it to disengage the input shaft from the clutch. Sometimes it takes a decent amount of force to get it to break loose.

    If that doesn't work, you might have to drop the transmission crossmember and allow the back of the transmission to lower so you get a better angle. All of this has to do with getting the engine/trans combo in line at an angle so the engine will clear the K member, but also release from the transmission. Sometimes if the angles aren't right you will need to gently use a pry bar between the bellhousing and the back of the engine. Often if the car is up on jack stands that allows the trans to drop lower in the back and make everything work. Hope that helps and good luck!
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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    As Kevin stated you want to support the transmission if leaving it in the car. Another quick point, if you removed the transmission to bellhousing bolts, you will want to reinstall those before moving forward. Make sure you have the grounds on the back of the engine to the firewall removed also.

    Lift the engine up with the hoist and after a couple of pumps, place a jack under the front of the transmission just behind the bellhousing. Continue to jack up the engine and then jack up the transmission until the transmission tops out against the floor pan. If the engine mounts are clear of the K member you can yank the engine forward and that should allow it to disengage the input shaft from the clutch. Sometimes it takes a decent amount of force to get it to break loose.

    If that doesn't work, you might have to drop the transmission crossmember and allow the back of the transmission to lower so you get a better angle. All of this has to do with getting the engine/trans combo in line at an angle so the engine will clear the K member, but also release from the transmission. Sometimes if the angles aren't right you will need to gently use a pry bar between the bellhousing and the back of the engine. Often if the car is up on jack stands that allows the trans to drop lower in the back and make everything work. Hope that helps and good luck!
    Do I need to remove the clutch fork? If so how do you get to the ball end with everything in the car?

  6. #6

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    The clutch fork doesn't need to be removed and can't be removed until the engine is out.
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  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member
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    There are 6 bolts holding the trans to the engine. Make sure you removed all of them. The motor mounts have studs that need to be lifted high enough to come of the the K member holes. Also you didn't mention the starter. It has to come out also.

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    It's probably a little late to mention this now but even before I had a lift I never tried to pull an engine while leaving the transmission in the car. I either pulled the engine and trans together or dropped the trans first then pulled the engine. I just think it's a whole lot easier that way. Dropping a T5 is very easy. I always thought taking those 4 trans to bell bolts out was easier than getting at the 6 bell housing to engine bolts while the engine was in the car.
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  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Everyone has their methods. I've pulled hundreds of engines but I've never pulled an engine and transmission together. When your on the clock, it makes no sense to do all that extra work.

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Pulling trans leaving bell is a good option best of both. removing shifter assy takes more time.
    Mine is a 2.3 t5 so not so intimidated as a big v8 swingin high in the air on an angle
    Then having to either roll car back or jerk cherry picker, with engine swinging, over bumpy floor
    actually pulled mine with a big tire rented cherry picker outside on dirt grass lawn
    reinstalled with my new cp and tilter in a new garage and smooth floor away from floor joints
    did not remove hood. opened it straight up and bungeed to rear bumper. hood stays functional and aligned.
    Having some small overhead crane experience with big items helps as far as trusting loads overhead!
    Plus seeing how it was done at factories. Engine/trans dressed out on a sub assy line then conveyed to install workstation
    Have as many parts as possible preinstalled. hoses, wiring as comfortable with.
    once engine is installed, some parts left off are much harder to install

    jackstands or lift is almost a must to really do the job safely not many garages have pits or high ceilings
    with plenty of lighting as much as possible from all angles to light up bay
    engine stand or cart to hold and support engine
    if pulling as one assy, car needs to be raised for trans tail to clear floor
    have floor cleanup package staged, cardboard whatever, fluids always come out when removing engines
    engine tilter and cherry picker. tilter allows leveling of engine/trans to clear car and ceiling during removal.
    HF gantry, trolley with electric hoist would be very fun to use. Turn some work into play.
    diy savings pay for tools

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by mmb617 View Post
    It's probably a little late to mention this now but even before I had a lift I never tried to pull an engine while leaving the transmission in the car. I either pulled the engine and trans together or dropped the trans first then pulled the engine. I just think it's a whole lot easier that way. Dropping a T5 is very easy. I always thought taking those 4 trans to bell bolts out was easier than getting at the 6 bell housing to engine bolts while the engine was in the car.
    agreed... i take the whole chunk. i wont fight those 6 bolts !!!
    doing it now with my 460/ 4 speed install...

    oh, i saw this...

    "if pulling as one assy, car needs to be raised for trans tail to clear floor"

    not so,my 460/t10 comes out ok, just did it,,,again...! motor hoist on ceiling.
    Last edited by bigblok80; 09-23-2021 at 11:41 AM.

  12. #12

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    How the originator make out afterall ?

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