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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member ddx77's Avatar
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    Default Where is the best place to buy floor pans

    Anyone have any suggestions on good quality floor pans and where to buy? Really just need rears.

    I was stripping down the rest of my interior and found some soft spots in the rear floor pan under the insulation.

    Wasn't a pleasant surprise but could have been worse, not the end of the world.

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  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    NPD and LMR are probably your best options. I don't believe anyone sells just the rear pans. Also the areas you show in the picture that have the open rust holes under the seats are technically not the floor pans, but the hatch/trunk floor area and I believe only the 87-93 style stamping is available. Best option under the seats is to either get a patch panel from a donor vehicle or just patch in new metal and finish as needed. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
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    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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  4. #4
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Patched mine were worse
    did repair after it provided an oppertunity
    rust out made easy access for a breaker bar on the ps rear lower control arm front nut
    cut out rusty tin, vac area
    treat surface rust with hammer paint or similar rust inhibitor.
    steel or aluminum sheet or plates work
    screw, rivet, or weld. Be aware of what is on the other side of floor pan. Fuel lines, brake lines.

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member ddx77's Avatar
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    Default

    Will do, thanks for the tips!

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Patched mine were worse
    did repair after it provided an oppertunity
    rust out made easy access for a breaker bar on the ps rear lower control arm front nut
    cut out rusty tin, vac area
    treat surface rust with hammer paint or similar rust inhibitor.
    steel or aluminum sheet or plates work
    screw, rivet, or weld. Be aware of what is on the other side of floor pan. Fuel lines, brake lines.

  6. #6

    Default

    https://www.c2cfabrication.com/colle...d+mustang+1985
    I have no experience with this vendor but they have rear floor pans.
    Mike
    85 GT - owned since 87

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member ddx77's Avatar
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    Default Floor pan patch

    So this is where I am at.

    I had these patches tacked into my rear floor pan (the under rear seat area). The welder couldn't go all the way around the floor pan material was just too thin he said. He also suggested for me to use windshield adhesive to fill in the seams, I was just going to use 3m seam sealer on top and below.

    Any suggestions, I don't want to mickey mouse it.

    I am going to paint the pans top side and under side, then sound shield over.

    Drew

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  8. #8
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Repair looks fine from here. Now to make it pretty and sort of disguise it as a factory patch.
    Factory uses seam sealer on many areas of panel structure where two panels meet.
    Fixed rusted door bottom seams and hatch seam areas with it. Flexible enough to hold up well.
    Look is similar to factory seams and is paint-able.
    Popsicle or kraft sticks work fine as smoothing tools or a mix stick for plastic filler.
    Am happy with using black wet/dry plastic roof cement in rear wheel wells. Look is the same, takes months to firm up.
    Have recently repaired rust outs. Cut out rust, formed and riveted gutter mesh on backside over holes, then bondo glass. Regular bondo does not hold up for hole patching because is affected by water especially from back side.
    Repaired the Ranger's cab corners that way. Rock hard looks fine. Passes a 'kick' test no denting. If it fails, will buy metal repair sections.
    Sealed the back side of repairs with more glass or roof cement. Overall less work and cost than larger new metal pieces.
    Pretty much got the rivet idea for metal work from seeing how C&C did T-roof structure mods and when replacing outside door handles.
    HF pneumatic 1/4" rivet gun has paid for itself. Does smaller sizes too but have a 2nd gun set up for those. Handy and fast one handed tools.
    Convertible cars also have under chassis bracing installed using rivets. Ford included a bag of 1/4" steel ones with the chassis stiffening kit.
    Riveted my patch over the sub frame channel so as to access the rear lower control arm front bolt if needed again in the future.
    If using seam sealer, check for fresh tubes at store. Auto chains may not sell tubes fast enough and it hardens in tube.
    Black hammer paint works great for repainting very durable. Has texture but lasts much longer than regular rustoleum paint on chassis.
    Last edited by gr79; 08-11-2021 at 11:05 PM.

  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member ddx77's Avatar
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    Thank you! Yes going to use seam sealer for sure. Thanks again for the reply and the tips!

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Repair looks fine from here. Now to make it pretty and sort of disguise it as a factory patch.
    Factory uses seam sealer on many areas of panel structure where two panels meet.
    Fixed rusted door bottom seams and hatch seam areas with it. Flexible enough to hold up well.
    Look is similar to factory seams and is paint-able.
    Popsicle or kraft sticks work fine as smoothing tools or a mix stick for plastic filler.
    Am happy with using black wet/dry plastic roof cement in rear wheel wells. Look is the same, takes months to firm up.
    Have recently repaired rust outs. Cut out rust, formed and riveted gutter mesh on backside over holes, then bondo glass. Regular bondo does not hold up for hole patching because is affected by water especially from back side.
    Repaired the Ranger's cab corners that way. Rock hard looks fine. Passes a 'kick' test no denting. If it fails, will buy metal repair sections.
    Sealed the back side of repairs with more glass or roof cement. Overall less work and cost than larger new metal pieces.
    Pretty much got the rivet idea for metal work from seeing how C&C did T-roof structure mods and when replacing outside door handles.
    HF pneumatic 1/4" rivet gun has paid for itself. Does smaller sizes too but have a 2nd gun set up for those. Handy and fast one handed tools.
    Convertible cars also have under chassis bracing installed using rivets. Ford included a bag of 1/4" steel ones with the chassis stiffening kit.
    Riveted my patch over the sub frame channel so as to access the rear lower control arm front bolt if needed again in the future.
    If using seam sealer, check for fresh tubes at store. Auto chains may not sell tubes fast enough and it hardens in tube.
    Black hammer paint works great for repainting very durable. Has texture but lasts much longer than regular rustoleum paint on chassis.

  10. #10

  11. #11
    FEP Supporter Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Looks good!
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member ddx77's Avatar
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    Default

    Thank you, repairing the pans, although not a huge deal, was a huge hurdle to get over. Now hopefully the rest goes a little easier.

    Quote Originally Posted by Broncojunkie View Post
    Looks good!

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