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  1. #1

    Default Edelbrock 2027 top end kit - Fit carbed 1984 Mustang?

    Hey all, was looking into top end kits and came across this one from edelbrock. It is listed as 1981 and earlier 302. Would this fit my 1984 mustang carbed? What do you all think of this kit?

    Thanks alot

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    I don't see a link?

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member Ethyl Cat's Avatar
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    Good luck finding anything Edelbrock for another 6 months or so
    BBD PERFORMANCE
    HIGH PERFORMANCE PARTS
    CUSTOM ENGINE BUILDS
    CUSTOM CAM DESIGNS
    1983 CRIMSON CAT OWNER

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    What he said ∆.
    But, not sure why. I know the imbalance changed in that time frame from 28 to 50 ounce, so perhaps that had something to do with it? Though this kit doesn't include a balancer or rotating assembly.
    Heads interchange for any non-roller block.
    The intake should match if carb'd.
    The deck height is the same, but you would want to measure/check pushrod length anyway.
    Cam didn't change until rollers.
    Ad long as you have a cam eccentric for a regular fuel pump (or convert to electric) that should be a non issue.
    Perhaps something to do with the EGR? But if you don't use it anyway, again, a non-issue.
    It also might be a firing order thing, but that is super simple to deal with. Just use the firing order meant for that cam. Probably the non ho order is all. That's what I'm running on my car. Not the kit, but the firing order.

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    Last edited by richpet; 06-04-2021 at 07:41 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by richpet View Post
    What he said ∆.
    But, not sure why. I know the imbalance changed in that time frame from 28 to 50 ounce, so perhaps that had something to do with it? Though this kit doesn't include a balancer or rotating assembly.
    Heads interchange for any non-roller block.
    The intake should match if carb'd.
    The deck height is the same, but you would want to measure/check pushrod length anyway.
    Cam didn't change until rollers.
    Ad long as you have a cam eccentric for a regular fuel pump (or convert to electric) that should be a non issue.
    Perhaps something to do with the EGR? But if you don't use it anyway, again, a non-issue.
    It also might be a firing order thing, but that is super simple to deal with. Just use the firing order meant for that cam. Probably the non ho order is all. That's what I'm running on my car. Not the kit, but the firing order.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    thanks. What head cam, intake combo would you all recommend to get a nice bump in performance, with parts that are available?

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    I went with a Crane 268 cam, dual plane, Edelbrock E Street heads and my midrange is awesome! Still an Edelbrock head, but maybe in stock somewhere. I ended up cutting out a section of the dual plane divider because I am using a FiTech and they seem to 'like' single planes better.
    I am also running Crane 1.6 RR's, electric fans and fuel pumps. Aluminum 3-core rad. My head's are the smaller valve (1.90/1.60) so I wouldn't have to worry at all about interference. Especially with the lower lift cam.
    The E Street heads have a 6000 rpm limit, but so does this cam. The cam is lower lift with more duration so it's not hard on springs or parts so for longevity I like it. I did use Crower cam-saver lifters though and not the ones that came with the cam because two failed in the first half hour or so. They work great together. With my 3.55 geared rear it scoots right along! Idles great and I have it set about 775 rpm.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    If I was looking to do these upgrades I'd piece meal a setup together. Trick Flow 11r 170cc heads, 5.0HO firing order hydraulic roller cam 225°/225° @ .050" around 112°lsa .550"ish lift, Howards link bar lifter, Victor Jr single plane intake (because fitech), Rollmaster timing set or make sure the chain isn't from China. Assuming this is a 5.0 5 speed street car, and this is all likely dreaming at this point in time as I'm sure nothing is readily available.

    Cale

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    It's all a matter of what you want to spend.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richpet View Post
    It's all a matter of what you want to spend.
    This is why I haven't replied. If we knew your budget and what you are wanting to get out of it, performance wise, that would be a good starting point.

    I went the budget head route on my 79. Flotek heads (180 or185....I forget). Castings seem nice, but I upgraded the valve springs. I have an x303 cam (wasn't my first choice and is actually the 2nd cam I've installed in it). I've had 3 different intakes on it, as well. I believe I have it where I want now with a dual plane rpm air gap intake.

    For budget heads, the Floteks really impressed me. Others have good reviews on them, as well. My buddy went with Skip White heads and they seem to make more power, but the castings weren't as nice. I've also read some good info on them. Similar case with the ProMaxx heads. I read a lot of poor reviews on the E-street heads when they first came out, but I'm betting some or most of the issues have been addressed. If I had the budget, I would go with AFR. I understand they use very high-end parts and the flow charts are very impressive.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    I forgot to mention... since you're planning to spend some money on upgrades, I would highly suggest a roller cam conversion, if it hasn't been done already. There has been a rash of wiped flat tappet lobes lately. From my understanding, it's from poor quality imported materials, but I also wonder if the changing oil additives (or lack of) might also be a factor. Regardless, the $450(ish) investment in a decent set of link-bar lifters is a cheap alternative to rebuilding an engine twice. If nothing else, you'll have the peace of mind knowing that you don't have to worry whether or not your oil is up to par. The added feature of more aggressive cam profiles is just an added bonus.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  12. #12

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    Thanks all very much, as there is a dizzing amount of talk on the various components out there. I will convert to roller lifters and rockers. In terms of budget, I am not too restricted, so I feel that I can spend what is needed to have the engine that I want (within reason), but I currently have modest goals. I want to make the car more fun to drive, with good sound, and more power mostly. I dont care to rev pushrod motors super high, so Id be shifting by 5k. Not sure that I really have a numbers goal in mind in terms of torque/power. Would like to have a strong runner for fooling around on the street, that is built with quality parts that will last.

    Thanks for your help!

  13. #13
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    I stayed flat tappet, but roller is an awesome idea. No break in.
    I think the wiped lobes are bad cams or bad lifters more than an oil issue though.
    My Bronco was flat tappet ('90) and ran perfectly. This motor I just built seems great - but I had two lifters go bad real fast. That's why I went with the Crowers.
    If you can swing a roller conversion it would definitely be worth it.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

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