Close



Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1

    Default Original belt tensioner questions

    I tried to use a 14" breaker bar to loosen the tensioner and it appears to be frozen solid. Those should move pretty easily with a breaker bar, correct? I was using almost all my force and nothing. I didn't think those could seize up like that. I even tried some PB Blaster to no avail.

    If it is frozen up, I noticed the replacement parts look nothing like the old style. Plastic wheel, no lips on the wheel, etc. Even the included new bolt looks thinner. Do you guys trust these replacement tensioners? Seems like there's not really any repairing of the original?

    Old and replacement pics below.

    Name:  IMG_0628.JPG
Views: 156
Size:  86.1 KBName:  lrs-49366_4412.jpg
Views: 151
Size:  19.4 KB

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Barboursville, WV
    Posts
    1,779

    Default

    I've replaced several of these over the years...both oem and aftermarket. I started upgrading to the March-style kits a few yrs ago.

    Name:  Screenshot_20210602-062843_One UI Home.jpg
Views: 143
Size:  119.9 KB
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,209

    Default

    Yes, the old units can freeze up in the down position due to rust, corrosion, etc. Soaking it in a Rust Removal solution might free it up again. Now how well it tensions the belt might be an issue. The replacements work and don't really cause any issues, but obviously don't look correct. If you are going for period correct you will most likely need to find someone that can rebuild your unit or find a good used one to replace it with. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    5,154

    Default

    what i read is depends on what side of the belt rides on the pulley.
    no flange pulley for back side of belt
    flanged pulley for ribbed side
    Most flanged pulleys are smooth inside, some have ribs. Most are plastic.
    The pulley can be measured and changed out if correct tensioner assy is not found.

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Freeport NY
    Posts
    2,024

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MN_Stang View Post
    I tried to use a 14" breaker bar to loosen the tensioner and it appears to be frozen solid. Those should move pretty easily with a breaker bar, correct? I was using almost all my force and nothing. I didn't think those could seize up like that. I even tried some PB Blaster to no avail.

    If it is frozen up, I noticed the replacement parts look nothing like the old style. Plastic wheel, no lips on the wheel, etc. Even the included new bolt looks thinner. Do you guys trust these replacement tensioners? Seems like there's not really any repairing of the original?

    Old and replacement pics below.

    Name:  IMG_0628.JPG
Views: 156
Size:  86.1 KBName:  lrs-49366_4412.jpg
Views: 151
Size:  19.4 KB
    I have an original tensioner on mine too. I was lucky and found a NOS original on ebay but I still held on to my original because all it needs is to replace the pulley and bearing.

    But as I recall, I used a 3 foot long pry-bar through the loop in the tensioners frame. 14 inches just wont give you enough leverage to move it.

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    5,154

    Default

    2012 replaced s-belt idler pulley on the ranger. belt was making a ticking sound. Still quiet.
    Local NAPA warehouse had many sizes and types in stock. No waiting and hoping.
    Went online to compare specs, then went there with the part number.
    many sizes were used for the truck that year.
    also did the tensioner. Gates. They make oe tensioners too.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fgross2006 View Post

    But as I recall, I used a 3 foot long pry-bar through the loop in the tensioners frame. 14 inches just wont give you enough leverage to move it.
    Wow, maybe my tensioner isn’t even broken/seized?

    I used my smaller breaker bar because my larger one as well as my crowbar wouldn’t fit in the little hole on the tensioner tab.

    its been a while since I replaced a belt on those old style tensioners, but I could have swore I changed one in an emergency in a parking lot with limited tools. I thought it went pretty easily with like a long screw driver.

    even with the 14” breaker, I felt like I was moving the whole engine slightly with the mount of force, yet the tensioner didn’t budge.

  8. #8
    FEP Member Hans's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    the Netherlands
    Posts
    319

    Default

    BroncoJunky,
    That March bracket,
    Would that be usable if I have just an alternator, waterpump and steering pump remaining on my engine?
    Would a non reverse Waterpump be an option?
    My tensioner and waterpump need replaced both.
    Thanks in advance!

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn ALE-L21 met Tapatalk

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Barboursville, WV
    Posts
    1,779

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hans View Post
    BroncoJunky,
    That March bracket,
    Would that be usable if I have just an alternator, waterpump and steering pump remaining on my engine?
    Would a non reverse Waterpump be an option?
    My tensioner and waterpump need replaced both.
    Thanks in advance!

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn ALE-L21 met Tapatalk
    They actually have another kit that includes the power steering pump bracket, but it should work with the oem power steering bracket as well. That's how I did it on my 88gt.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  10. #10

    Default

    FWIW my son's 80 cobra with the original tensioner was completely seized up too and I could not budge it or very little etc. Looks the same as the one in your pics.

    I ended up just getting a replacement tensioner that also looks like the one in the pictures but I think it came from an 87 or 88 5.0 junkyard car. It fit in the original alternator bracket with no issues. I usually put a wrench on the bolt head on the pulley and pull on it from the passenger side and it lifts the tensioner/pulley fairly easy.

    Also found out the hard way that the bolt on the pulley end was a reverse thread. I assume so it does not work loose spinning normal direction. Ruined another tensioner that way before I realized why it was so tight

  11. #11
    FEP Member Hans's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    the Netherlands
    Posts
    319

    Default

    Thanks for your answer.

    Hans.

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn ALE-L21 met Tapatalk

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •