Close



Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1

    Default New to me 85' GT front end damage

    Hello all, as the title of this thread states I recently purchased a 1985 Jalapeno Red GT to the tune of $600. The car is not complete and is missing the cylinder heads, exhaust manifolds, carb and intake manifold. The car is also missing the instrument cluster as well. It has a 306 short block, new Edelbrock timing chain and water pump as well as an E-303 cam. At some point in the past, the PO rear ended a work van and some slight damage occurred to the core support, hood, and front bumper cover. My main concern is finding a header panel as mine is cracked and I have not found a new manufactured replacement. After I pull the front bumper cover I will have a better idea of what to replace. Is a 87-93 core support a good idea? Thanks in advance.
    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4gjulkv74...smr2Ojdha?dl=0
    Last edited by FadedJalapena; 05-09-2021 at 07:03 PM.

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    First Welcome to FEP! Congrats on the new to you 85 GT! The 85/86 GT is one of my favorites.

    From what I can see in the pictures it appears to me that the majority of your damage is to the front bumper cover and the headlight/bumper cover support. Unfortunately the headlight support is not reproduced at this time. So a good used one or repairing your current support are your only options. As for the cover, it appears to have some heat damage to the area around the Ford Oval and is warped in addition to the crash damage. The 85/86 GT front cover is reproduced using Ford tooling, so that is a great option if you can't find a good used one. Yours is probably repairable if you had to, but based upon the current condition, I would consider replacing it.

    I don't believe you have major damage to the core support the fenders don't appear to have any buckling. The hood is straight from what I can see, as well as the top of the core support. Odds are you can straighten out any damage on the core support and not have to replace it. The main area of the core support is the same for 83-89. But keep in mind that there are technically 3 pieces that make up the support and that includes the two lower bottom rear sections of the core support that are not reproduced at this time. So you either have to save yours or find a good set to make a complete core support. I highly recommend repairing what is there as it will be easier and cheaper in the long run. Worse case after pulling off the front sheet metal, if you find significant damage, have a local body shop pull everything out to spec on a frame machine. It will still cost you less than replacing the front support. Good Luck and definitely let us know what you find once you pull it all apart.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    First Welcome to FEP! Congrats on the new to you 85 GT! The 85/86 GT is one of my favorites.

    From what I can see in the pictures it appears to me that the majority of your damage is to the front bumper cover and the headlight/bumper cover support. Unfortunately the headlight support is not reproduced at this time. So a good used one or repairing your current support are your only options. As for the cover, it appears to have some heat damage to the area around the Ford Oval and is warped in addition to the crash damage. The 85/86 GT front cover is reproduced using Ford tooling, so that is a great option if you can't find a good used one. Yours is probably repairable if you had to, but based upon the current condition, I would consider replacing it.

    I don't believe you have major damage to the core support the fenders don't appear to have any buckling. The hood is straight from what I can see, as well as the top of the core support. Odds are you can straighten out any damage on the core support and not have to replace it. The main area of the core support is the same for 83-89. But keep in mind that there are technically 3 pieces that make up the support and that includes the two lower bottom rear sections of the core support that are not reproduced at this time. So you either have to save yours or find a good set to make a complete core support. I highly recommend repairing what is there as it will be easier and cheaper in the long run. Worse case after pulling off the front sheet metal, if you find significant damage, have a local body shop pull everything out to spec on a frame machine. It will still cost you less than replacing the front support. Good Luck and definitely let us know what you find once you pull it all apart.
    Thank you for the welcome! I definitely will update this thread when I make some progress. I am currently sorting out my carb/head/intake/exhaust situation. I did forget to mention that the driver door does interfere slightly with the fender as you open the door, maybe 1/32. The previous owner has a brand new bumper cover (Repro on Ford Tooling) he would sell me for $300, not bad in my opinion. I believe the headlight support will be my biggest hurdle.

  4. #4

    Default

    Welcome to the site. Congrats on the purchase. I recently searched for the header panel on my 85, I can tell you you got your work cut out for you. Not easy to come by. All I can say is get on the phone and start calling all salvage yards. Prestige mustang out of Georgia is a good start. I finally found one by simply calling all places I could find. The front bumper covers are easy enough to come by. There are new reproductions out there. Good luck on your search. Cheers

  5. #5

    Default

    Quick update, I got a new bumper made on OEM tooling. Now, finding a header panel is the hard part. Just found out my car had fog lights, so I sourced a set of Marchal 850GT lamps. Been busy buying a house, after I moved in I'll be able to tear down more.

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    Congrats on the new bumper cover. I looked at your pictures, I can't see in the picture if there is damage to the existing header panel. Is there? From what I can see it appears to be in decent shape and definitely useable. If you can post up pictures, I can probably help you determine if it is reusable or not. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #7

    Default

    Wraith, thank you for always being so helpful and active in these threads, it is much appreciated. As for the header panel it seems there is a large crack running through the center of it. I will get some more pictures when I return to where the car is stored.

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Barboursville, WV
    Posts
    1,773

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FadedJalapena View Post
    Wraith, thank you for always being so helpful and active in these threads, it is much appreciated.
    Agreed!
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  9. #9
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FadedJalapena View Post
    Wraith, thank you for always being so helpful and active in these threads, it is much appreciated. As for the header panel it seems there is a large crack running through the center of it. I will get some more pictures when I return to where the car is stored.
    Quote Originally Posted by Broncojunkie View Post
    Agreed!
    Thanks! Happy to help when I can.

    There's a good chance that you can repair the crack in the header panel and not have to source a new one. Post some pictures when you have the time and we can go from there.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  10. #10

    Default

    Well, five months later I am finally settling in to my new house and fixing all sorts of issues with it. Finally got some time to take the nose off this car and see what I'm dealing with. From what it seems, it shouldn't take too much to make this right. I'm just hoping I won't have to swap the core support. I ended up buying a non title disassembled 85' LX 5.0 vert for the hood and header panel, as well as the engine and other small parts. Not bad for $300. After swapping hoods, it appears the gap seems a bit too big. Possibly pushed the fender over maybe?
    ETA: Link to pictures is here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4gjulkv74...smr2Ojdha?dl=0
    Last edited by FadedJalapena; 12-18-2021 at 12:11 AM.

  11. #11

    Default

    Hate to bump this thread on my own, but I need some advice. I'm trying to get this core support straightened without giving up and taking it to a body shop. I have access to a spare front clip I could steal the core support from. Does it look fubared or do I have a shot at pulling/hammering it into place? Pictures linked in other post.

  12. #12

    Default

    Take some time, and do some research/learning on fixing front-end damage.
    https://www.google.com/search?q=fixi...e=lnms&tbm=vid


    Also, take a video, do a slow walk around, post it on youtube.
    Your pictures may be nice, sharp, and in focus. But, they are semi-worthless is seeing how bad the damage is. From the photos, the damage looks very minor.



    Good Luck.

  13. #13
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    From what I can see in the pictures it appears the car took a hit to the front top leading edge of the hood offset to the driver side. Am I correct in that assessment? It appears it damaged the leading edge of the hood, the bumper cover header panel and the bumper cover itself, as well as it bent down the top of the core support? Again does all of that appear to be correct? Assuming it is, then my recommendations would be as follows.

    Align the new hood to the car. Align the back edges (L&R) to line up with the cowl panel. Any difference is width (wider or narrower) should be split evenly side to side. Make sure once the back sides are aligned that your gap from the hood to the cowl is even across the entire width of the hood. The gap width doesn't matter yet, but make sure its enough that the hood doesn't catch on the cowl vent cover. The gap width will be determined later by the front leading edge of the hood being in line with the front leading edge of the bumper cover.

    Now this is where I sometimes deviate from what most do. The factory fitment of the front bumper cover to the fenders was often poor at best. I install the front cover and support and lightly snug the support to the front fenders. Once everything is in place, then I will push, pull, shift, align the bumper cover to the front fenders for the best alignment with all the body lines and creasing. Sometimes the inside edge of the cover next to the hood will line up with the fender, sometimes it doesn't depending on how the rest of the body lines match up. I shoot for the best overall aligment so that from 5 feet away everything looks as good as possible. Once the first side is done I do the same to the opposite side. All the while the front bumper support is not bolted down to the core support. I might run bolts into the different brackets, but nothing is tightened.

    Now its time to align the fenders to the hood. Again this is a compromise to get the best fit and finish with not only the hood, but the front edge of the door and the front bumper cover. You want your gaps side to side to be as even as possible and the same gap from the back of the hood to the front edge. The fenders will move in and out on the engine bay sheetmetal, so loosen up all the front fender bolts so that you can move and adjust. I start at the back of the fender at the door. You need the fender flush with the outer door skin and with enough gap that the door can open and not catch on the fender. The gap is often not equal from top to bottom, but try to get it as close as possible. Don't forget about the bolt inside the door jamb for the back of the fender. That can be shimmed if needed and helps at times to be able to curve the fender better to align with the door. Same is true for the bottom fender bolt under the back edge of the fender, often it needs shims to align properly and get the right shape to the fender. Once the back edge is done and the gap looks good, you should be able to adjust the front top bolt of the fender to get the hood to fender gap as even as possible. Once that is done, you will jump to the other side and repeat. Once you are happy with the overall fit then snug everything down and put bolts or tighten up the front bumper support to the core support.

    Now the next item is to make sure the leading edge of the hood matches up with the front cover. That may require you to loosen the hood to hinge bolts enough to slide the hood forward or backwards on the hinges to get the proper alignment. Make sure your rear gap stays even and is enough to clear the cowl vent cover and you don't shift the hood side to side or cock it off crooked. Once happy, tighten everything up on the hood. If you can't get a good alignment at the leading edge, there is a possibilty that you might need to move the fenders back on the body closer to the doors. Generally if you keep the door to fender gap as close as possible without any rubbing issues, this does not happen, but it can. If so, then you will need to repeat the fender steps all over again, but if you are careful you will keep move of your alignment as is and just shift the fenders back slightly.

    The last item is the overall hood height to match the fenders. I do this by lowering the hood latch as much as possible. Then I adjust the hood bumpers until the hood is level with the tops of the fenders on both sides. Once that is done, then I will begin adjusting the hood latch until I can generally lower the hood in place and with a slight push on the top edge of the hood the latch will close completely and securly. Sometimes this can be the most frustrating part as it is a constant latch, unlatch, shift, start again until the hood stays in perfect alignment and latches properly without having to slam the hood. Some latches due to age, wear, etc. will require the slight drop of the hood from @ 1 foot off the latch to work properly, but you should not have to slam it.

    Ok, that's a done of detailed instructions and how to's. I hope I made it clear enough to follow, but if not just PM me for more details if needed. Good luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  14. #14

    Default

    Trey, this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you a thousand times over. I'll hope to make some headway this weekend. Do you have a link to where I can drop you some beer money for the help?

  15. #15
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FadedJalapena View Post
    Trey, this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you a thousand times over. I'll hope to make some headway this weekend. Do you have a link to where I can drop you some beer money for the help?
    Happy to help! No beer money needed. Let me know if you run into any issues and I will do what I can to help you out. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •