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  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by NY5speed View Post
    Good evening all, just a quick follow-up. I ended up purchasing the Lares "10:1" unit, part number 16191. It appears to be a pretty nice piece and I've seen good reviews of their other products so I guess we'll see how it goes when I install it in the spring. I did a quick comparison between this rack and the 20:1 and 15:1 Flaming River manual racks that I have free at the moment and I would say that this Lares unit is right around a 15:1 ratio. A full rotation of the input shaft results in about 1/16" more tie rod movement than the 15:1 manual rack. For the record, the 15:1 manual rack moves the tie rod 1/2" more than the 20:1 rack in one rotation. I will compare this to a 15:1 Ford rack when I have one free.
    Very helpful, thanks for reporting back. It'll probably be springtime before you get out for a drive with it I would image...

    I have a 15:1 flaming river manual rack that is getting the boot since I'm no longer into the manual steering thing.
    Mark

    1986 GT Hatchback (2R): 5spd, TFS FAC 170s, TFS Stage 2 Cam, Vortech SQ S-Trim, MM Suspension, SN95 5-lug conversion w/Fox 5-lug rear axles, 3.73's, 13" / 11.65" brakes, Moates QuarterHorse
    '88 LX 5.0
    '22 GT500

  2. #27

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    Just put of curiosity, why are you going back to power? I m looking at a replacement soon for mine and just wondering about pros and cons.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  3. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    Just put of curiosity, why are you going back to power? I m looking at a replacement soon for mine and just wondering about pros and cons.
    I've had the Flaming River manual rack in the car for about 20 years and it has served me well. I originally went to manual steering as I was looking to clean up/simplify the engine compartment as much as possible, plus I was ~22 years old at the time of the decision. The car was also running big n' littles for a number of years Now with 255s in the front, low-speed maneuvering in the garage, into the trailer, etc. is annoying. I've also been spoiled by my S550 GT500 and I'm trying to make my Fox feel like less of a stripped down tin can in comparison. I'm also in the process of insulating/sound deadening the car to the max, adding all accessories back in that I removed "back in the day," and making it more comfortable in general; while still allowing the best parts of what I love about a Fox to remain.

    In short - less tolerance for lack of creature comforts
    Last edited by Quikk86; 01-14-2023 at 02:04 PM.
    Mark

    1986 GT Hatchback (2R): 5spd, TFS FAC 170s, TFS Stage 2 Cam, Vortech SQ S-Trim, MM Suspension, SN95 5-lug conversion w/Fox 5-lug rear axles, 3.73's, 13" / 11.65" brakes, Moates QuarterHorse
    '88 LX 5.0
    '22 GT500

  4. #29

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    Ahh, yeah, that is my fear as well. Getting too old to enjoy manual steering on a fox. By the way, I was putting sound deadening in mine a few weeks ago and had pretty good luck with the Amazon basics stuff if you are looking to save some money.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  5. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    Ahh, yeah, that is my fear as well. Getting too old to enjoy manual steering on a fox. By the way, I was putting sound deadening in mine a few weeks ago and had pretty good luck with the Amazon basics stuff if you are looking to save some money.
    Some additional food for thought as I don't want to talk you out of the move to manual... the decision to move back to power steering isn't at all strength related, so if you don't mind the extra effort, it's not bad, it's just annoying for me as it's something that makes the experience of driving and maneuvering the car less enjoyable. I don't get to drive it all that often and I want to enjoy it when I do. Plus, there really is no discernable performance gain in a 400+ RWHP car and I no longer care about the additional clutter of the pump and lines.

    I see folks that have converted to manual brakes and that is something that I absolutely wouldn't recommend or ever consider, it's a safety issue for a street car and completely unnecessary in my book.

    Thanks for the tip on the Amazon sound deadening, I've been researching products and I haven't counted out the Amazon material.
    Mark

    1986 GT Hatchback (2R): 5spd, TFS FAC 170s, TFS Stage 2 Cam, Vortech SQ S-Trim, MM Suspension, SN95 5-lug conversion w/Fox 5-lug rear axles, 3.73's, 13" / 11.65" brakes, Moates QuarterHorse
    '88 LX 5.0
    '22 GT500

  6. #31

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    My Porsche has manual steering and manual breaks, but that car weighs nothing. The only reason I might go for it on the mustang is removing a failure point and road feel.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  7. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    My Porsche has manual steering and manual breaks, but that car weighs nothing. The only reason I might go for it on the mustang is removing a failure point and road feel.
    Try the Maximum Motorsports steering shaft (if you don't already have one) if you are looking for some additional road feel, it's takes the factory rag (isolation) joint out of the equation. Solid or delrin bushings in the control arms do wonders for road feel, but of course, will introduce NVH. I've driven a Fox with the '03-'04 COBRA (ZM) rack which felt really good to me in comparison to the stock fox rack in my '88 LX. I'm going to use a ZM rack to replace the manual rack setup in my '86, it's sitting on my workbench right now
    Mark

    1986 GT Hatchback (2R): 5spd, TFS FAC 170s, TFS Stage 2 Cam, Vortech SQ S-Trim, MM Suspension, SN95 5-lug conversion w/Fox 5-lug rear axles, 3.73's, 13" / 11.65" brakes, Moates QuarterHorse
    '88 LX 5.0
    '22 GT500

  8. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    Ahh, yeah, that is my fear as well. Getting too old to enjoy manual steering on a fox. By the way, I was putting sound deadening in mine a few weeks ago and had pretty good luck with the Amazon basics stuff if you are looking to save some money.
    Not to hijack, but do you have any info about this? I did a search for "amazon basics" but did not return any results.
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  9. #34

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    Amazon Basics Car Sound Deadener, 14.5″ x 10″, (10 count)Pack of 1 https://a.co/d/hTFpJXA

    1 package was enough to cover my trunk. Another was more than I needed to cover everything under the rear seat and the seat back.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  10. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Two86fiveoh's View Post
    Unbolt the shaft from the rack, it may take some effort to get the splines to release.
    Anyone have a "trick" to get the splines to release? I am replacing the steering rack and everything seems to be going well, but I cannot get the splines to release. They seem to be rusted to the steering rack shaft. I've soaked it in Break-free, but still no joy. It's very tight to get in there, so the use of a crowbar seems like a no go.

  11. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    Amazon Basics Car Sound Deadener, 14.5″ x 10″, (10 count)Pack of 1 https://a.co/d/hTFpJXA

    1 package was enough to cover my trunk. Another was more than I needed to cover everything under the rear seat and the seat back.
    Thank you
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  12. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    My Porsche
    PIctures and some info please.......

  13. #38

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    Name:  IMG_20221004_075026677~2_copy_1600x798.jpg
Views: 125
Size:  436.4 KB

    73 914 2.0 chalon.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  14. #39
    FEP Supporter
    qikgts's Avatar
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    Rockledge, FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by av8vito View Post
    Anyone have a "trick" to get the splines to release? I am replacing the steering rack and everything seems to be going well, but I cannot get the splines to release. They seem to be rusted to the steering rack shaft. I've soaked it in Break-free, but still no joy. It's very tight to get in there, so the use of a crowbar seems like a no go.
    I think there is a pinch bolt on there. Make sure it's loose/out. You also may need to give it a few raps with a persuader and/or apply some heat with mapp gas or the like.
    '85 GT

  15. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by qikgts View Post
    I think there is a pinch bolt on there. Make sure it's loose/out. You also may need to give it a few raps with a persuader and/or apply some heat with mapp gas or the like.
    For any other first timers, as said above, the use of a mallet and a long drift worked great. Loosened the rack and pulled it forward as far as I could. This will expose the pinch clamp, and you can get to it from the driver's side wheel well. Removed the pinch bolt and braced the rack so it wouldn't move. Then simply hammered on the pinch clamp until it popped free. Took about three good raps with a 3 pound mallet.

  16. #41
    FEP Supporter
    qikgts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by av8vito View Post
    For any other first timers, as said above, the use of a mallet and a long drift worked great. Loosened the rack and pulled it forward as far as I could. This will expose the pinch clamp, and you can get to it from the driver's side wheel well. Removed the pinch bolt and braced the rack so it wouldn't move. Then simply hammered on the pinch clamp until it popped free. Took about three good raps with a 3 pound mallet.
    Glad to see you got it handled!
    '85 GT

  17. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post


    Name:  IMG_20221004_075026677~2_copy_1600x798.jpg
Views: 125
Size:  436.4 KB

    73 914 2.0 chalon.
    I remember these when they were new... I drove a couple of them and they were alot of fun to drive... I always wanted a 6 cylinder model, 914/6, of course now they are unobtainable without winning the lottery.....

    Before I retired I spent some time looking for a 09 or newer 911, or at least as new as I could afford... I ended up with a BMW 650 convertible, but I really wish I would have held out for the porsche.... Porsche prices have gone up while my BMW went down, besides nothing drives like a porsche.....
    Last edited by Bentley; 03-25-2023 at 07:53 AM.

  18. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by av8vito View Post
    For any other first timers, as said above, the use of a mallet and a long drift worked great. Loosened the rack and pulled it forward as far as I could. This will expose the pinch clamp, and you can get to it from the driver's side wheel well. Removed the pinch bolt and braced the rack so it wouldn't move. Then simply hammered on the pinch clamp until it popped free. Took about three good raps with a 3 pound mallet.
    Now another question. While pulling the old rack off, I pulled the steering shaft coming out of the firewall out about 3/4" judging by the witness marks. Can I simply tap it back in without hurting anything?

  19. #44
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by av8vito View Post
    Now another question. While pulling the old rack off, I pulled the steering shaft coming out of the firewall out about 3/4" judging by the witness marks. Can I simply tap it back in without hurting anything?

    Yes you can!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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