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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Default Drivers power window working periodically.

    So for some reason my drivers side electric window only works when it wants lol. Been like that since I bought it. When it did work the motor struggled. So I bought new motors and switches. Just finished changing them out. Worked a couple of times then turn off car walk away and come back...doesn't work. Pull new switch out, put old back in....works. shut car off walk away for a bit come back and it doesn't work again. Can't get it to work now. Also the passenger side switch right beside it doesn't work either. Window switch works fine all the time from the from the passenger side. Help! LOL
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 04-23-2021 at 01:15 PM.
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  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Also before I installed the new motor I hooked it up to the switch and it worked. Installed it and it worked. Went back to try again 10 minutes later and it wouldn't work again.
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  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Disconnected the motor plug from the panel plug. Hooked spade connectors to the motor plug then to a battery. Window went up and down no problem. Hooked back up and it worked. Got out closed door, waited 10 seconds got back in and it wouldn't work. Fooled around with it for a bit and noticed it would stop working at certain points in the doors movement either opening or closing. I'm suspecting it's something in the wiring going into the door. Anybody have any ideas?
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  4. #4
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    Those motors have a thermal switch in them. If the switch is held on after the window is all the way up or down, the motor will time out. It won't come back on until the thermal switch cools down. You may have the switch sticking, is my point.

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dynodon64 View Post
    Those motors have a thermal switch in them. If the switch is held on after the window is all the way up or down, the motor will time out. It won't come back on until the thermal switch cools down. You may have the switch sticking, is my point.
    Thanks for the advice, I don't think that's the problem however. Seeing as the passenger side switch on the drivers side doesn't work also and I've changed out the switches about 5 times and nothing. Uhhhggg I hate electrical problems.
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  6. #6

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    The harness can definitely chafe in the hinge/A pillar area. You may have to pull the kick panel to check there as well. That rubber accordion boot is little bit of a pain to manipulate sometimes.
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  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billkandi View Post
    The harness can definitely chafe in the hinge/A pillar area. You may have to pull the kick panel to check there as well. That rubber accordion boot is little bit of a pain to manipulate sometimes.
    Ok, we were just checking for 12v at the switch panel and had nothing. We started pressing wires and wiggling around the accordion boot and was able to get 13 for a second or 2. There is obviously a short or something in there somewhere. What's the easiest way to remove that boot and have a look?
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 04-24-2021 at 02:45 PM.
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  8. #8

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    That's the fun part. There's a number of ways to get access, none are really good. You can slice the boot and wrap it with elec tape when you're done, unplug the harness and pull it through the boot (this sucks), or you can unplug both ends and pull the harness out of the door and A pillar. The boot will slide then and you can probably find any trouble. I'm sure there are other ways it can be done, I just haven't done them. Others probably have clever techniques that are better, maybe they'll chime in too.
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  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billkandi View Post
    That's the fun part. There's a number of ways to get access, none are really good. You can slice the boot and wrap it with elec tape when you're done, unplug the harness and pull it through the boot (this sucks), or you can unplug both ends and pull the harness out of the door and A pillar. The boot will slide then and you can probably find any trouble. I'm sure there are other ways it can be done, I just haven't done them. Others probably have clever techniques that are better, maybe they'll chime in too.
    Thanks, ya I think I might slice the boot and see if I can see any visable signs of what's causing my problems, unless anybody reading has a reason why I shouldn't. Lol Interior is gutted other than the dash. I tried to look up to see where the wire comes through and where the connector is but can't spot it. Unless its tucked way up where I cant see it.
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  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Well, I think I found the issue. Lol These 2 pink wires are cracked and there is also a pink one that is broke right off, which explains the switch for the passenger side not working. Uhhgg not sure how I'm going to fix this.
    Attachment 135428
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 04-24-2021 at 06:22 PM.
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  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member gt4494's Avatar
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    With fatigue like that the only right way to fix it is to replace from the motor to under the dash.

    Its a PITA but the only way to ensure you won't have issues for the next several decades..

    You will probably want to change the power lock wires if so equipped. No sense having to open everything back up in a year or so.
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  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gt4494 View Post
    With fatigue like that the only right way to fix it is to replace from the motor to under the dash.

    Its a PITA but the only way to ensure you won't have issues for the next several decades..

    You will probably want to change the power lock wires if so equipped. No sense having to open everything back up in a year or so.
    Ya for sure that would be the best. I fixed the broken wire and am going to put some liquid electrical tape over the splits for now. When I get some more time to takle it I will attempt to run all new wires.
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  13. #13
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The drivers side PW/PL wiring only runs to inside the driver's kick panel. Same actually for the passenger side. That is where the pigtail is located that disconnects the door wiring from the body. The wiring is in the upper hole of the kick panel. Generally a green plug that is square. If you disconnect the wiring in the door that will allow you some slack to pull the wiring down out of the kick panel to disconnect the pigtail. Then you can pop off the wire boot and pull the wiring back out of the body and then possibly make the repair with the door open. The same is true for the passenger side. The wiring that is a PITA to fix, repair, replace is the jumper harness that connects the driver door to the passenger door. That runs along the firewall behind the dash from one kick panel to the other. The only way I have ever gotten it out is to remove the dash assembly to gain access. Hope that helps and good luck with the repairs.
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