6-8lbs boost stockish 5.0 EFI

[micro Loopie]

I'm looking for some info on turbo size for a stockish 5.0 HO roller motor. This isnt going in a mustang, looking to do a swap into a Toyota 4x4 pick up.

The engine build will either be

'87+ heads/intake cleaned up a bit. No crazy port job.
Or
GT40 heads/intake cleaned up a bit. No crazy port job.

Stock 5.0 mustang roller cam. Mass air. Mustang ECM.

The rpm range is idle to 5500. The truck is on 35's with 5.29's so at 56mph in 4th the engine spins 3000 or so. 5th gear is 15% OD.

I dont want to change the stock RPM range. Ideally, I just want to increase the hp/tq #'s at the same RPM's. I have to do custom exhaust anyhow for the swap, so am thinking I could just do a flipped header baby turbo set up without much more effort. No intercooler. Likely just a boost referenced way of turning up the fuel, i.e no tune.

What turbo should I be looking at to make 6-8lbs of boost effortlessly and spool up at the lowest RPM possible?

The end idea/goal is OE turn key reliability set it and forget it swap into my 4wd daily driver. Not looking for a power house, just something a little extra than the stock 5.0 mustang engine.

[richpet]

Why not just build the 302 a little bit? Far less complicated and in the long run probably more dependable, too.

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[xctasy]

OX1...read his posts on the effectiveness of a good turbo 5.0.

[xctasy]

See http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...32#post1932032

[Ethyl Cat]

Do you already have the engine?

Are you forced to run 8.2 deck engine for hood clearance?

I would build a 351w NA if possible. Instant torque and simplicity

Off road and turbos don't really go together IMOP.

Roots supercharger yes, turbo no

[OX1]

OX1...read his posts on the effectiveness of a good turbo 5.0.

If you are really set on a turbo, I would ask ON3 if they have an even smaller turbo than the one that comes base with their kit. Will spool faster and still easily put out 10 PSI. With only 10PSI boost, I was about 340 crank HP. I gained 14 MPH with only the turbo @ the track. This was through the stock 55 mm mass air meter. I'd guess you could ad 40-50 to what I had with just the E7's and a larger 19 lb inj calibrated MAF (and the boost of course).

[micro Loopie]

I like the factory bottom end torque production. Ive had a '95 GT 5.0 5spd and currently own an '86 Capri 5.0 5spd. I think if I built the motor too much I'll lose the twitchy bottom end torque.

I'm in the mountains, I think a turbo would push the motor along by itself.

A 22re, the OE motor for the truck puts out around 105hp/135tq. The OE 302 EFI should be a handful compared to that but I want a bit more than a stock 5.0 in there. I want more punch without losing the twitchy torque.

QX1, what rpms would you see 6-8 lbs of boost?

I dont know if this truck needs a 351w. Id sure like one in my car before my truck

[Two86fiveoh's]

I agree with Richpet, build/buy a simple 302 based setup and call it a day. Especially if one wants to retain 'factory' reliability.

IMO--Buy an Expo motor, use the stock Mustang cam and call it a day. Should yield 275+ HP and 300+ torque. Simple and bulletproof with gobs of low end torque.

[OX1]

QX1, what rpms would you see 6-8 lbs of boost?

IIRC, I would see 10 PSI about 3200. Don't recall when it would get 6-8, but obviously before 3200.

[xctasy]

Consider your options carefully. We won't tell you what to do,just give you access to common thought oprions wit hour starving your creativity or needs to meet a budiet.

Common thought elseware is "any time you get inside the 5.0 it'll cost you money".

All the time, people say no head swaps, just a turbo. So the turbo route is a common message board solution.

The issue is always Fords marginal stock HO valve springs and problems with valve float and the discipline required not to go past just a 50% power boost. Remember, as far as ring gap and critical loads on the piston go, a simple 7 pound turbo boost is just like a 110 hp nitrous hit. I have friends into 302 Clevelands all the other 351s who say that concept of 50 percent power gain moderation is like asking a person who has tried hard drugs to just "take it easy".

Your actuall results will be based on how much discipline you exert.

It is possible to keep the stock 5.0 HO SEFi idle to 5500 rpm torque to power curve and scale it up with stock Later Explorer 5.0 heads, the GT40P's.

Ford in Australia did this with the 5.6 liter 342 stock bore 3.4 inch crank stroker. They added CNC ported GT40 heads and a Trick flow/Box R style intake with the SVT Cobra 235 hp cam. For a year before that, they used 302 factory aluminum heads on the 295 hp and 320 lb-ft versions. Same 5.0 HO SEFI 225/285 lb-ft power and torque curve, just raised a little. Off idle, no extra torque. They used a stock Explorer intake and did the Tmoss modifications. Then Ford USA stoped aluminum head supply, and Ford Australia just used the stock GT40P heads, with the 212 cfm flow taken up to 238 cfm with a Yell Terra Australia CNC porting program which was derived from Ford USA's ported Alloy GT40 heads.

You have options if you cast your net a little wider.

The advice on the 351W is good. They are in junk yatds from F trucks and E- vans. Such a great engine.

To have a 351 W match the 520 pounds of a 5.0 HO SEFi with power steering and air con pump, you Just need some alloy heads and your at stock 5.0 HO SEFI weight, and you just have to use the same kind of 351W 300 hp 1995 SVT 5.8 flat tappet cam profile, maybe an after market version in roller form. Due to the way the 351 W aftermarket tries to price gouge when any 5.8 liter EFi bank fire or Sequential truck engine is oarted out, in my opinion, you then have to look at a cost reduction via a 4bbl carb intake and Lightening fuel rails with perhaps a 3848 Edlebrock Elbow like
Four Eyed Pride user BFM uses. The expensive 5.8 upper and lower intakes and the hood height and weight and injector rail issues are solved by going back to a carb style 4bbl with stick 5.8 rails and injectors added.

I'll post his video when I find it.

So your choices are: stock 5.0 HO SEFi power curve with just a little more from 2800 to 5500, without a savage hit off idle to about 2800.

So turbo, centrifugal super charger, stroker or 9.5 351W.

Key thing: What parts you can actually get define what you do.


See http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...62-302-or-351w

And BFM 347 advice and videos in post # 3.

Going 5.8 EFi with alloy heads is a surefire way to get a 50% boost.

The intake adaptor and 4bbl are a great option to underhand a 351W without weight or too much center of gravity change.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...swap-queations

[xctasy]

The old 1998-2002 Mountaineer or Explorer 5.0 was the base for EECV Aussie Fords in the 248, 268, 295 and 335 hp net stages. Mesozoic uses the later 103 pin EECV and turns off smart lock and for offroad use, you can easily disable the non OBD2 requirements so your not having to carry all the extra wiring. The last GT40P headed 5.0's...they are grey slurry engines that just happen to lap up most things you give it.

I really like the Crane 2031 roller cam. It's got a nice lope to it, passes California emissions, and works great with boost as well.

[Bryan Knebworth]

IIRC, I would see 10 PSI about 3200. Don't recall when it would get 6-8, but obviously before 3200.

Your father still have that '84? That was one cool car

[OX1]

Your father still have that '84? That was one cool car

He passed away recently (was 89), so now I own it.

[Bryan Knebworth]

He passed away recently (was 89), so now I own it.

So sorry for your loss