Close



Results 1 to 22 of 22
  1. #1
    New User Novuhodonosor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Recklinghausen, Germany
    Posts
    30

    Default 2.8 from Germany.

    Hey!
    I want to start the topic of repairing and restoring my
    Mustang 2.8 1979 hatshback.
    I bought the Mustang in 2015, but due to health problems I had to postpone ...
    But in June 2020, he decided to return to the restoration.
    There is very little information about 2.8 Cologne, I have books,
    but they are in English,
    and I have a problem with it)))))
    And I have a lot of questions ...
    I will ask them here and I ask you not to take offense at my English,
    this is Google)))))
    And the first question about Motorcraft2150 V2.
    I went over it three times already, but it still throws a lot of fuel and
    the spark plugs turn black and stop working. I bought another one but it has
    the wrong vacuum connections.
    Can a couple of pipes be blocked?

  2. #2
    New User Novuhodonosor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Recklinghausen, Germany
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Name:  20210326_132124.jpg
Views: 664
Size:  196.6 KB
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  3. #3
    New User Novuhodonosor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Recklinghausen, Germany
    Posts
    30

    Default

    This is how it looks now ...
    Name:  20210319_143354.jpg
Views: 665
Size:  333.5 KB

  4. #4
    FEP Supporter Broncojunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Barboursville, WV
    Posts
    1,570

    Default

    Very nice project! What all have you done to the engine so far? Can you post some pics of the engine?
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  5. #5
    New User Novuhodonosor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Recklinghausen, Germany
    Posts
    30

    Default

    I removed the right cylinder head to see and grind the valves.Name:  Kopf_Rechts.jpg
Views: 663
Size:  298.5 KBName:  Dichtung_Ansaug.jpg
Views: 664
Size:  437.3 KBName:  Ventile_Kopf.jpg
Views: 663
Size:  437.9 KBName:  Piston_Rechts.jpg
Views: 665
Size:  513.6 KB

  6. #6
    New User Novuhodonosor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Recklinghausen, Germany
    Posts
    30

    Default

    [QUOTE = Broncojunkie; 1936621] Очень хороший проект! Что вы сделали с двигателем до сих пор? Можете выложить фото движка? [/ QUOTE]4

    The engine was in working order, but after I cleaned the carburetor, the engine began to work poorly and after reading a lot of things on the Internet I found this site and have been reading for a week without stopping ...

  7. #7
    New User Novuhodonosor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Recklinghausen, Germany
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Name:  Motor_nach.jpg
Views: 651
Size:  137.9 KBName:  Motor_for.jpg
Views: 653
Size:  392.6 KB

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    2,044

    Default

    Looks like it was running rich. If all the plugs were the same, I don’t see a reason for tearing it down. Likely a problem in the carb. Capping all the vacuum lines should not be much of a problem for troubleshooting. You really only need the vacuum advance if equipped.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 14 Mustang CS/GT,
    15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  9. #9
    New User Novuhodonosor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Recklinghausen, Germany
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Two hours of work .....
    Name:  Vor.jpg
Views: 525
Size:  178.6 KBName:  Nach.jpg
Views: 525
Size:  220.5 KB

  10. #10
    FEP Supporter
    82GTforME's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    4,741

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Novuhodonosor View Post
    Two hours of work .....
    Name:  Vor.jpg
Views: 525
Size:  178.6 KBName:  Nach.jpg
Views: 525
Size:  220.5 KB
    That looks much better! Hopefully it's just carbon build up from being too rich but you are redoing valves. I did some porting and polishing in the inlet and outlet ports. I think it made a nice difference. Any smoothing you can do will likely be of benefit.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...=1#post1629600

    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    Note: I am using some of the recommendations in the Sven Pruett book "How to Rebuild and Modify Ford 60* V6 Engines" with regards to the porting I am doing. It has been quite insightful. One recommendation I didn't use was get a junk head to practice on!

    I picked up an assortment of carbide burrs from a work supplier and finished porting the exhaust bowls and ports. There is not a lot to do there. The book only states reducing the hump a bit and smoothing up the cast in the port. So that is what I did:


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...57fbf.jpg.html

    Next was the intake port. The valve guide boss is a huge restriction to flow. The recommendation is to remove half of it, taper and smooth it to end up with a tear drop shape.

    Before:


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...0f910.jpg.html

    I wasn't comfortable to remove that much. The book even stated for race applications that it would be entirely removed!

    After:


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...deec3.jpg.html

    Before:


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...f8260.jpg.html

    After:



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...287d9.jpg.html
    http://i1337.photobucket.com/user/82...165f5.jpg.html

    So I ended up getting one intake port and bowl done plus radius work on the intake and exhausts. The ports are done on the other two intakes, just not the bosses. All three exhaust are done. ON ONE HEAD! Time consuming, but I am being as careful as I can to not nick the seats etc. I also took the time to clean all of the water passages as well. I figure two more afternoons (weekends) and then it might be ready to go back to the machine shop for valve work.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...bddb0.jpg.html

  11. #11
    New User Novuhodonosor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Recklinghausen, Germany
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Спасибо, я видел твои фото и тоже думал об этом. Пока что в первую очередь шлифовка клапанов, но посмотрим.
    У меня нет возможности купить или скачать указанную вами книгу.

  12. #12
    FEP Supporter
    82GTforME's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    4,741

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Novuhodonosor View Post
    Thank you, I saw your photos and thought about it too. So far, first of all, valve grinding, but we'll see.
    I have no way to buy or download the book you specified.
    Serhiy, you are already progressing well but I have a second copy of the Sven Pruett book. Send me a PM if you wish to discuss purchasing it.

  13. #13
    New User Novuhodonosor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Recklinghausen, Germany
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Yesterday I finished painting all the parts! Now just assembling everything together ...
    https://youtu.be/w2NqBQZhAmg

  14. #14
    New User Novuhodonosor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Recklinghausen, Germany
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Yesterday I hung up the right door .... There was one, so the door needs to be moved back. I also took out glass and moldings, I will clean ...Name:  20211013_171734.jpg
Views: 66
Size:  609.8 KBName:  20211013_171744.jpg
Views: 66
Size:  588.8 KBName:  20211013_175701.jpg
Views: 66
Size:  337.7 KB

  15. #15
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    south-central WY
    Posts
    238

    Default

    Things that come to mind about rich mixture:
    Leaking needle and seat
    Float set too high
    Power valve leaking or loose, gasket installed wrong
    Too much fuel pressure.
    Wrong jets

    Refering to another thread - engine stall when C4 is put in gear, is the engine idle speed set too slow?

  16. #16
    New User Novuhodonosor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Recklinghausen, Germany
    Posts
    30

    Default

    [QUOTE = darkd0r; 1942038] На ум приходят мысли о богатой смеси:
    Негерметичная игла и седло.
    Слишком высокое значение поплавка. Утечка в
    клапане мощности или его ослабление, прокладка установлена ​​неправильно.
    Слишком высокое давление топлива.
    Неправильные жиклеры.

    Ссылаясь на другую тему - заглохание двигателя при включении передачи C4, не слишком ли низкие обороты холостого хода двигателя? [/ QUOTE]

    Thanks for the answer! Based on the rich mixture, I installed another carburetor and rearranged the jets from the old one.
    The engine rpm in a warm state is 1000, when the reverse gear is turned on, the rpm drops to 600 and if you do not give the gas, the engine stalls, if you immediately switch from P to D, then the rpm is 850.

  17. #17
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    south-central WY
    Posts
    238

    Default

    Just to confirm band adjustment:

    Front - loosen lock nut, tighten adjuster to 10 ft-lb, then loosen adjuster 1 and 1/2 turns, tighten lock nut to 44 ft-lb while holding adjuster in position.

    Rear - loosen lock nut, tighten adjuster to 10 ft-lb, then loosen adjuster 3 full turns, tighten lock nut to 44 ft-lb while holding adjuster in position.

    Note: I found instructions for the front varying from 1 turn, to 1 and 3/4 turns. For the rear, 1 and 1/2 turns, to 3 turns. More sites had the vaues I listed up above, but you may have to test and re-adjust.

    Please let us know if this is the way you set your bands, or if you can't make any sense out of it.

  18. #18
    New User Novuhodonosor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Recklinghausen, Germany
    Posts
    30

    Default

    [QUOTE = darkd0r; 1942049] Just to confirm band adjustment:

    Front - loosen lock nut, tighten adjuster to 10 ft-lb, then loosen adjuster 1 and 1/2 turns, tighten lock nut to 44 ft-lb while holding adjuster in position.

    Rear - loosen lock nut, tighten adjuster to 10 ft-lb, then loosen adjuster 3 full turns, tighten lock nut to 44 ft-lb while holding adjuster in position.

    Note: I found instructions for the front varying from 1 turn, to 1 and 3/4 turns. For the rear, 1 and 1/2 turns, to 3 turns. More sites had the vaues I listed up above, but you may have to test and re-adjust.

    Please let us know if this is the way you set your bands, or if you can't make any sense out of it.[/ QUOTE]

    I set up as stated in the book and in your first version, front 1 and 3/4, back 3 turns. I also saw that there are different settings. Not sure why, but I have a problem with the oil level. I do not understand how much and how to get the right amount. When the engine is off, refilled to the upper level, started, changed gears, turned off, refilled to the top.
    At a German forum, I was told that I need to look at the level with the engine running and top up to the top. I started and saw an almost dry oil dipstick. I had to top up to the upper level of about 400 ml, turning off the engine, I saw that the level had risen, I had to pump out these 400 ml.
    Last edited by Novuhodonosor; 10-16-2021 at 10:57 PM.

  19. #19
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    south-central WY
    Posts
    238

    Default

    Transmission fluid should be checked with the car warmed up, and engine at correct idle rpm in neutral.

    Engine off dipstick level tells you only that there is some unknown amount of fluid in the transmission.

  20. #20
    New User Novuhodonosor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Recklinghausen, Germany
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by darkd0r View Post
    Transmission fluid should be checked with the car warmed up, and engine at correct idle rpm in neutral.

    Engine off dipstick level tells you only that there is some unknown amount of fluid in the transmission.
    That is, the engine is warmed up, idle 800-900, and only then do you need to top up to the upper level on the dipstick?

  21. #21
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    south-central WY
    Posts
    238

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Novuhodonosor View Post
    That is, the engine is warmed up, idle 800-900, and only then do you need to top up to the upper level on the dipstick?
    That is correct.

  22. #22
    New User Novuhodonosor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Recklinghausen, Germany
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by darkd0r View Post
    That is correct.
    I did so, but after turning off the engine, the level on the dipstick became much higher than the upper mark. Will this cause oil to squeeze out through the gasket?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •