Sourcing a rotating assembly
Update on the rebuild of my 84 5.0. I have good news, and bad news.
The good news is its moving forward, the block was acid washed, and inspected for cracks, and passed inspection.
The bad news, the bore holes need to be machined 0.030, and the crankshaft needs to be replaced.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a good retailer in Canada where I could source a rotating assembly
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Weird, the bore is 30 but the crank can't be turned 10 or 20? That is fairly unusual.
It can be, but I already need new pistons, rods and rings. So it just makes more sense to buy a rotating assembly at this point.Originally Posted by mudgepondexpress
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So... what size are you looking at: 331 or 347? That might help narrow it down a bit.
I'm new to oversizing, so I apologize for my ignorance. But wouldn't a 302 bored out by 0.030" be a 306?
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Yes it is.
If you are just going overbore and stock sizing, no hop up parts, turning your crank is the safest bet (and will save you $ without a loss of reliability). No reason to go crazy on a steel crank or something for a stock rebuild. You can easily go up to 350 hp with a stock crank (and higher if you change the rods).
A 10-10 undersized crank is fairly normal and is more than stout enough. Your rods will give up way before the crank will (trust me, I know...).
What is your goal for this engine?
Kenny
The price for turning the shaft was around the 450 CAD mark. It seems to me that just going new is the better option at this point
Honestly my goal keeps shifting. Orginally I just wanted to do a simple rebuild of this engine. But as I got deeper into it, I seen the negligence of the previous owner, and I'm now being forced to rebuild it from the ground up.
I plan on putting all Edelbrock parts on the top end. I'm keeping it to the lower price points on all those, but still going all edelbrock. I'm anticipating around 350 hrspwrs once it's completed.
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WOW, that is a brutal amount for a crank turn! That is over 4 times what it would cost down in the states! I will guess you shopped around, but maybe there is a more reasonable place?
So a total Edelbrock top end... heads, intake, carb, camshaft (performer?). At that point, you don't really have much to option out. Go with a flat top, 4 valve relief piston (Hypereutectic or forged), ARP rod bolts and have the rods resized, stock crank, and then have the whole thing balanced. It should get you close.
If I were to go to an aluminum head, then I would just upgrade the block to a later roller cam block and be done with it. I don't know where you live, but done here in Washington, they are fairly easy to come by. The roller cam just make so much more mid range torque it is incredible!
Kenny
I live in Canada as well. Our machining costs are a lot more. I was charged 1800 canadian to rebuild my short block with just new rings, bearings and stock replacement pistons.
Being from Alberta I can certainly relate to the cost of machining and such being expensive here.
Not much you can do much with the block as that kind of has to be local but I would look at buying a Scat kit with rods/pistons/rings complete etc. The catch there is they are mostly not balanced and that is also quite expensive relatively to get done up here.
I took a chance a few years ago and bought a skip white 347 kit off ebay with a flywheel and balancer shipped complete (I don't know if they do a 306 kit). Basic balancing was included and I got the rod proofing option for easier assembly (by me) etc. I had my local machine shop do the 30 over bore and decking on the block but did my own stroker clearancing to keep those costs to a minimum.
FWIW it all worked out good for me and I would consider using them again on a rebuild. I was very leery at first since they are one of the cheaper kits online but decided to go for it. Shipping that stuff across the country is a cost adder and a little scary as well. I wouldn't say it was real cheap but in the end I got mostly new and upgraded parts rather than overpaying for machine costs on worn out stuff.
That's what I did anyway. It was reasonable when I added up the pros/cons/costs of things for me but may depend on what you want or have. Another factor is if you are confident and able to do some of the assembly on your engine etc.
Not sure but if you are not confident in assembling then its probably better to get a kit through the shop you are using otherwise they may find fault with the parts you supply and want to machine them anyway...ouch...but I think you sort of take your chances with that kind of stuff regardless sometimes.
Cheers, not sure if that helps or not.
BTW I find the stuff you have in the blue can comes in real handy almost any time while working on this stuff !! I usually buy it by the caseload and try not to ever get too low on it
That's why I wonder if in this case when your doing a full rebuild and the machining costs are so outrageous it's better to source a crate engine? Guess it depends on what you want.
Mustangs
84.5 Gt T-top
85 Gt
If you need a new crank and pistons anyway, then a stroker kit adds the rods and usually comes with the rings and bearings. A kit with a cast crank with forged rods and pistons can be had reasonably here in the States. Some come pre-balanced including a new flywheel and balancer thatg would hold down machine shop costs. With 331 or 347 (I'd do the 347 - no cost difference) inches you would still feel the difference even with small or even stock E7 heads. The foundation would be ready for upgrades when time and resources allow.
Having an idea of your budget would help with the recommendations.
Note, that I am not an expert of what's the best pick, but Jegs have forged rotating assemblies for a little over 2000USD, although, unbalanced, so there's the added cost for that. They have cast for lesser amounts as well. I have no clue if they charge extra to send to Canada, but it says "free shipping" or if y'all have to deal with customs for that matter.
Yeah unfortunately shipping and exchange on the dollar are big factors for us in Canada to get parts. Nothing is really free shipping and customs charges always usually apply. These charges are mostly added up front to the bill but sometimes they will charge you COD customs charges when your parts arrive. Sometimes this is not clear from the supplier so you get the extra bill. Usually the bigger and heavier the parts the more costs escalate to the point that it makes it uneconomical sometimes. The other problem is getting warranty and sending stuff back if its damaged or not correct etc.
If you do find a supplier in Canada I have found they usually just bring it in from USA and pass on the charges anyway although it is hidden.
Either way we have to pay extra to play. Sorry that's my rant for the day !!
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