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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Default Window motor removal, how the heck....

    Was going to replace my window motors today on my 84 and after watching videos it seemed easy enough....IF YOU HAVE SPEAKER CUTOUTS! LOL. How the heck are you supposed to get the motor out and a new one back in when you dont have a big hole from a speaker. There is no way my fat mitts can reach in there. Lol
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  2. #2
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    I have removed the motors many times. My doors are just the stock cutouts. I don’t recall a problem. Maybe vert. Doors are different? I don’t think so except for the top.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    I have removed the motors many times. My doors are just the stock cutouts. I don’t recall a problem. Maybe vert. Doors are different? I don’t think so except for the top.
    Ya I'm not sure but unless I'm missing something you have to be rubber man to be able to reach in and install that motor.
    Attachment 135182
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  4. #4

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    Drill out the rivets on that support brace and it will come right out. It is pretty ea to after that.

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudgepondexpress View Post
    Drill out the rivets on that support brace and it will come right out. It is pretty ea to after that.
    You talking about the big vertical black one towards the back of the door? If so, not sure how that would help, the motor would come out the hole as it is right now. The issue is reaching your hand and arm through said hole and fitting it between the door metal, window regulator gear and the door run channel to be able to put new one into place.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The way I remove the window motor is to roll the window all the way up. Then I secure it with a chunk of 2x4 so it can't fall down when the motor is removed. Then I remove the two 7/16" bolts that hold the front window channel track and move it forward to gain more access to the motor. Remove the electrical pigtail and possibly the small metal bracket the harness is attached to if present. Now remove the 3 bolts/screws that hold the motor to the regulator and move it towards the opening in the door. Remove from the door and repair/replace as needed. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    The way I remove the window motor is to roll the window all the way up. Then I secure it with a chunk of 2x4 so it can't fall down when the motor is removed. Then I remove the two 7/16" bolts that hold the front window channel track and move it forward to gain more access to the motor. Remove the electrical pigtail and possibly the small metal bracket the harness is attached to if present. Now remove the 3 bolts/screws that hold the motor to the regulator and move it towards the opening in the door. Remove from the door and repair/replace as needed. Good Luck!
    Thanks Trey, if I remove those 7/16 bolts that hold the window run channel does it easily go back into place or is there anything I need to watch out for when removing them? And by moving it forward do you mean towards the hinges of the door or towards the outside of the door?
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    There shouldn't be any real issues with reattaching the bolts. You can mark their exact location with a Sharpie before removing to assure you get it back in the same spot. Otherwise you might need double check your window movement before final tightening. As for forward, I move it towards the hinges to gain access behind and under the window motor to help get my hand in there. Often I am installing new door channel runs at the same time so, I often just let it fall down out of the way and then reinstall with the new gaskets.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Gloves with the fingers and thumb cut off may be handy here. Gloves help grip without getting cuts and blisters.
    Cheap brown cloth, white dotted ones, cut with scissors. Or all plastic latex if you like them.
    Assemblers who worked the door line wore them. Usually cloth for dexterity, a bit of padding, and breath-ability.
    Gloves are commonly seen worn everywhere on the lines. Lucky to get a job that can be done with bare hands.
    Leather canvas doing chassis, material handling and such. Welders use all leather. We got gloves free.
    Of course no gloves around moving machinery.
    Saves scratching up hands working inside cars, and for sure doing shift work. Reuse gloves until worn out.
    Protective sleeves are used on forearms if working deep inside or around exposed metal and plastic edges.
    Last edited by gr79; 03-07-2021 at 06:00 PM.

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