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  1. #1

    Default Boxing the Rear Control Arms

    Well I was talking to my dad about stiffening up the rear suspension and getting some new control arms, and he mentioned that "in the old days" they used to take the stock factor ones and box them in on the bottom and sometimes add cross bracing inside with 1/8" steel. Was wondering what ya'll thought of this since it'd be an essentially free temporary way to stiffen it up some. I know they won't be as good as box welded aftermarket ones but figured they'd be good for the time being.
    2000 V6 - Sold
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  2. #2

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    And the stock, torn, worn, need-to-be-replaced rubber bushings will still be in the arms. That's where most of the suspension's loose feeling comes from. Little of it has to do the control arms themselves flexing.
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  3. #3

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    Ok, maybe I should have added that I would definately toss in some polyurethane bushings at the same time. That being said, you think it would be worth the while to just beef up the stock ones rather than new control arms that everyone recommends?
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  4. #4
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    Yeah... we used to do the same thing... it's not that hard to box them in... just don't induce a warp with too much heat... and like Foxchassis recommends... replace those bushings...
    Old Heavyweight Large Body Platform, two Muscle powered feet, that get traction from a set of size 12 generic shoes. Needs alot of bodywork, and hard to start in the morning... Used to be alot faster, but now does the 1/4 in 330sec at 2.7 mph.

  5. #5

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    The stock bushings are pressed in and held in place with heavy-duty adhesive. They must be heated to release the adhesive and presed out or burned out. Then new ones must be pressed in. All the while, you must be careful not to bend the control arms themselves (when pressing in or out).

    Upgrading stock control arms are a waste of time and money.
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  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member
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    If ya have access to a metal working shop at your Tech School... Why not build your own control arms... Pick up the Performance Handling 2 Book by Mathis... the details on how-to are in it...

    I've been discussing with my brothers about getting the Pacecar ready to enter into the Grassroots Motorsports $2005 Challenge... If we do... then we'll have to build alot of our own components....
    Old Heavyweight Large Body Platform, two Muscle powered feet, that get traction from a set of size 12 generic shoes. Needs alot of bodywork, and hard to start in the morning... Used to be alot faster, but now does the 1/4 in 330sec at 2.7 mph.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxChassis
    All the while, you must be careful not to bend the control arms themselves (when pressing in or out).
    Good point... but... if you boxed them before you remove the old bushings (which would be the correct way to do it anyways) the arms would be stiff enough not to bend...
    Old Heavyweight Large Body Platform, two Muscle powered feet, that get traction from a set of size 12 generic shoes. Needs alot of bodywork, and hard to start in the morning... Used to be alot faster, but now does the 1/4 in 330sec at 2.7 mph.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FoxChassis
    The stock bushings are pressed in and held in place with heavy-duty adhesive. They must be heated to release the adhesive and presed out or burned out. Then new ones must be pressed in. All the while, you must be careful not to bend the control arms themselves (when pressing in or out).

    Upgrading stock control arms are a waste of time and money.
    That's the kind of response I was looking for. Thanks for the opinions ya'll. I'll prolly just pick up a set of aftermarket ones or like mike said, I could always fab my own. We've fabbed control arms for bagged trucks before so a set for the stang shouldn't be too bad. Something to try, if not I'm just out hte cost of the steel, which is easily accessible.
    2000 V6 - Sold
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  9. #9
    gtluke
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    all you really need to do is just weld up all the seams in the box. if they are distorted already, it wont work really... but if its not that bad, just weld up the seams.

  10. #10
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    I could see boxing the control arms if your in a racing class that prohibits aftermarket parts and/or specifies that you have to use factory original parts.

    Then you would have to modify yours.

    And see about MIG welding since it uses a lot less heat.
    85 Mustang Coupe, 3.3L I6, C4, 8.8 3L23, 17x8 wheels. About 70% towards firing it up.

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default boxed arms

    Considering the work and value of personal time why bother with the stock ones if you don't have to when you can get good aftermarket for around $100? Besides, if they do warp or not come out right yo still have to do the work again. Considering of course, as mentioned before, class rules if racing, etc.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

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