Close



Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1

    Default Ridge reamer. Is it necessary?

    What do you guys think? Will I need to removed this slight ridge before taking out the pistons? I can just catch my fingernail. But I've seen some people say that if you plan on putting the original pistons back in, it's not completely necessary. I'd just rather not buy a 70 dollar tool that I'll only use once

    Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

  2. #2

    Default

    Just try... Hard to see in pictures but if it is small the rings can go right by. If it is large, they will stop the piston from coming out. You won't be reusing the rings so no harm, no foul. If the ridge is big enough to stop the piston from coming out, you are probably going to need a bore, or your "rebuild" will not last long before the blue haze of cheapness with envelop you.

    Kenny

  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    13,590

    Default

    If you do need one and dont need it for a couple of days, here is one for a bit less $$. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-36500-R.../dp/B000P0ZK1O
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Lowell, Oregon
    Posts
    1,676

    Default

    Or pull the pistons out the bottom of the block. Installing them could then be an issue if the ridge is too much.
    Hate to say it, but $70 (or less from Amazon as mentioned by Trey) is the cost of doing business. Do it right with confidence, or try to cut the wrong corners and pay a lot more later.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! Building a 9.5:1 .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads, 268 cam, T5, 8.8 with 3.55, plus all the stiffening goodies, all control arms, lowered, alum shaft, x-pipe with Outlaws...

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member 306gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Plymouth, Ma.
    Posts
    1,495

    Default

    If you need a ridge reamer, You need a bore job. Those things do more damage then they fix.
    85 G.T. All motor
    337 c.i.d 11.44-120 mph

    1984 1/2 G.T. 350 (13.01-106 mph)

    1984 G.T. (Daughters car)

    1986 G.T. (Son's car) (12.99-105 mph)

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by richpet View Post
    Or pull the pistons out the bottom of the block. Installing them could then be an issue if the ridge is too much.
    Hate to say it, but $70 (or less from Amazon as mentioned by Trey) is the cost of doing business. Do it right with confidence, or try to cut the wrong corners and pay a lot more later.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    I completely agree with this. Wrong time to cheap out imho
    79 Zephyr, 4v/4r70w swap planned, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •