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Thread: 1986 GT Project

  1. #1

    Default 1986 GT Project

    Hello everyone

    Been lurking for a while, working on my quest for a solid low 13 high 12 second 86 GT. It is almost done and will be driving once the weather breaks here and would like to know your all's opinion if I will be close or am I missing something.

    I wanted to keep the SD for now, and mostly all outside bolt ons (no internal motor mods yet).

    86 Mustang GT
    stock bottom and heads
    5 speed
    Cobra intake
    70mm TB
    EGR delete
    LMR fenderwell cold air
    Smog delete
    AC delete
    under drive pulleys and matching belt
    SVE mini starter
    BBK long tube headers 1-5/8"
    BBK off-road X pipe
    Super turbo with dumps
    Summit Racing ignition box
    complete tune up (ford racing wires, plugs, cap/ rotor, fuel filter)
    timing bumped to 14 degree
    SVE alum. radiator
    4.10 gears
    Ford Aluminum driveshaft
    sub-frame connectors
    UPR upper and lower control arms
    front sway bar removed
    quad shocks removed
    MT ET street SS 255/60/15
    Skinnies up front all on Race star 91's

    With good driving is low 13's possible? Anything else I should add that isn't going to cost and arm and leg lol for now anyway.

    Any input would be really appreciated, budget project here for my teenage boys and myself.

    Thanks


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    Last edited by pay1973; 02-08-2021 at 07:46 PM.

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    A lot of those mods are weight reduction and not a huge amount at that. A lot will depend on shifts. I am not a drag racer but you might be 13's.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! Building a 9.5:1 .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads, 268 cam, T5, 8.8 with 3.55, plus all the stiffening goodies, all control arms, lowered, alum shaft, x-pipe with Outlaws...

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  3. #3

  4. #4

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    It’s going to be close but I think you may be a little short on HP. A cam should get you there.

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The 1986 model is often a hard one to deal with due to the SD and the flat top no valve relief pistons. This really limits you in camshaft options and the SD limits how much change the computer can compensate for.

    I am not a drag racer, so most of your mods are the opposite of my general philosophy in regards to Four Eyes, but they should all help to get to your goal. As stated, with the right conditions, good driving, and a little luck I think 13's are possible, but are still going to be a stretch.

    I am not a fan of virtually any aftermarket rear control arms other than Maximum Motorsports. I know in drag racing conditions the Quadra Bind suspension is less of a headache than road racing, but IMHO adding control arms such as UPR will only add binding and friction to the already compromised suspension. Personally a set of Maximum Motorsport lowers with a good set of rubber bushings in the upper arms and rear housing with a Maximum Motorsport Panhard rod will do a better job of locating the rear axle and putting the power to the ground in all conditions. Best of luck!
    ​Trey

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  6. #6

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    Yes I am finding out more and more the 86 is very hard to mod like other year foxbody's, I like them the best though so I will live with the struggle lol.

    A foxbody mechanic guru I know says its hit or miss even with the crower 15511 cam with working with SD and PTV clearance also.

    So just live with what I have for now and later down the road put a better bottom end in it with heads and convert to Mass Air.

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    If only my brother got the 11r top end kit for his 95 gt instead of the regular twisted wedge heads because they’re both the same price!!!

    The key part to making the right head choice to avoid the wrong low lift and duration cam choice.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYU2...nel=SeanRakers


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRrN...nel=SeanRakers

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    rock4451



    Quote Originally Posted by rock4451 View Post
    Update - took it to the track Wednesday - got 2 runs in. This was the better of the 2:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRrNcB3ywIY
    Edit - not sure why it's sideways. 11.95 @ 116.
    Attachment 90490

  9. #9

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    Google Bob Crosby's 11 second recipe. Read it. Study it. Pick your mods. No doubt you can get much faster than 13's with a stock cam stock rotating assembly 302. Throw 4 degrees of retard at the cam, switch to TrickFlow heads and 1.7:1 rocker arms, get a damn good intake, headers, etc. You'll run out of fuel at 320 HP so Cobra MAF convert it and go to 4-6 hole 24lb injectors and an X3Z ECU.

    Or if you're driving it on the street you'll love the kick from some AFR 165 Renegade heads paired with a cam that's 4 degrees advanced plus the necessary hardware but again .... you'll need more fuel.

  10. #10

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    Bob Crosby's 12 second recipe

    Thats kind of what I went by budget allowance but I guess the 86 still falls a little short

    https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/bob-cosbys-12-second-recipe.853108/

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Bob Crosby. Maryland. Are you seeing a connection.?

    Don't discount a power adder, turbo/ nitrous/supercharger or the 190 11Rs. If your looking, you might just find something with a budget. Richard Holdener did 165 mph averages for 30 minutes with an LX and a Pro Charger.

    See as well this post

    https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for.../#post-9279929

  12. #12

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    Have thought about a 100 shot of nitrous, but to be safe with a stick shift car adding MSD timing control so I can retard timing and a MSD window switch for the Nitrous to turn on at a certain RPM and turn off before rev limiter in case of a missed shift or something else to protect motor some.

    Does that sound right?

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Right on. The result of perfect nitrous and gasoline enrichment is 1.47 times the stock rwhp. Same as 7 pounds of turbo, centrigual or positive displacement boost. Only resistrictions with nitrous is full grove bearings...on Fords, they dont suit. If its stock, nitrous or any form of 7 ponds boost, it will reduce critical loads compared to making another 100 hp by a better Head/Cam / Intake. So in the 13.0 to 12.0 second zone where you probably wont need a roll cage, chemical supercharging without application before 3000 rpm, and a soft limiter to keep below 6250...it'll be fun.

    In Dunedin, I have seen a lovely old 72 XA Falcon Hardtop live years with N20 on a stock 4V 351C. Bottle queens...can be mean!

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    I think the 1969 AMC AMX SS 390 ( the Jimmy Walker) car with dual quads, Rat roster intake and 4.44 Power Lock Dana and BW T10 manual did 10.5s as a factory street registered car weighing 2200 pounds acid dipped without its rider. Others of its ilk, 10.73 at 128 mph, although one eventually did 9.98 at 141 mph at Milan Dragway by 1972.

    People don't realize how far advanced the USA's factory cars were by 1969 before the emissions bit into having a 12.3:1 compression ratio engine.

    By the time Air Flow Research did the SD455 heads for the 73 & 74s on the 8.4:1 TransAm, it was potentially as quick when prepared the way the factory could if allowed . 13.54 from the factory, but 12.87@ 106 on an OEM with Polyglass tires. With prep and other PMD parts, way into high 10s.

    Mustangs have a much better hook up and just as much potential with a lot less cubic inches.

    I like mildly or majorly stroked 5.0h's. A lot is hiding in your car. Learn the history of its development, and you'll imitate greatness with application of science and not cubic dollars

  15. #15
    FEP Power Member 306gt's Avatar
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    I had a 88 all stock went 14.7- 95 mph. Threw on a set of G.T.40 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, Explorer intake, Explorer 65 mm T/B. 24 lb injectors, mass air conversion with pro m 75 mass air meter., 1 5/8" shorty headers, 2 1/2" exhaust no cats, t5 and 3.73 gears. left stock H.O. cam. Turned 13.40's at 102 mph on E.T. streets. Was all done at 4800 rpm. Shifted at 5200 rpm. Never dynoed it but I guess it made around 260 rwhp. You have alot of work ahead of you to hit high 12's low 13's with the mods you have planned.
    85 G.T. All motor
    337 c.i.d 11.44-120 mph

    1984 1/2 G.T. 350 (13.01-106 mph)

    1984 G.T. (Daughters car)

    1986 G.T. (Son's car) (12.99-105 mph)

  16. #16

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    Guys at shop saying mid 13's with solid driving, I am good with that actually, be fun stop light to stop light.

    Going to start collecting items to run a small shot of nitrous also.

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    If you can get the horsepower up, a 460 net rwhp car with 3100 pounds can dip into the high 9s. Thats what NMRA is all about with a 2013-2017 factory box stock internally Coyote 5 liter crate engined 430 to 440 hp net at 7700 rpm engine with standard engine tune but big intake and exhaust improvements.

    The OHV 4.38 bore spacing GF Stirret design engine was making that kind of power in the G code Tunnel Ports and Boss headed 302's in 1969. Most of the gain is in cylinder heads, but chemical boost is equal to 7 pounds of non intercooled turbo or super charging. Never forget, Fords K code small block 271 hp 289 "Compact" Fairlane Sport Coupe was technically a 14.6 second indexed car in 1963, and it indeed bet the quicker Compact Car with Big Block engine 326/389 GTO Ponocho to market place. Coyotes get qudos, but there is so much great stuff around for the iron 5.0s that youd be crazy not to continue looking for the right prescription for extra power in a stock block.

  18. #18

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    another Mary-lander! What part? Which shop are you using?
    Jim DeAngelis
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  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by FB71 View Post
    another Mary-lander! What part? Which shop are you using?
    St Marys County

    Pro link automotive, he a old school foxbody drag racer (used to be), he has been great in working with me.

    Just ordered a Kaenen 3" cowl hood shave off a few pounds

  20. #20

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    You should be able to get into the high 12's on slicks with just a few modifications.

    For starters make sure your ECU is one of the good ones. A9L, A9P, or VM1 are examples. You wont get there with many of the others. If its MAF, you NEED a bigger meter and piping to support it. Make sure your base timing is on point big time. 1/2 degree too much is worse than 3 degrees too little so know where the sweat spot is.

    Can't forget the simple stuff. Take out the back seat and passenger seat. Remove the front sway bar. Run skinnies in front.

    Also the meat and potatoes of the operation - great lower control arms out back with mount points dropped 3/4" on the rear end housing

    Source and Explorer 65MM throttle body, thin the blade, convert it over to fox per Tom Moss. Get 1.7:1 rockers. Do some lower intake porting if you can. Headers and high flow or now cats and mufflers are a must. Also the correct rear gears, and aggressive driving.

    You likely won't get into the 11's with only those mods but you should be able to do it pretty easily with a great cam, twisted wedge heads, and a great intake added to the above.

    There's also of course going to a stroker, etc.

    Lord knows there are plenty of heavily modified cars that won't run the numbers they should. Certainly not the numbers the ones that are dialed in run. And once you run amuck it can take a long time to get back to where its doing what it should. So think slow and methodical. Less is often more.

    The biggest changes in a dyno tuning session for a given combo are sometimes found with things as simple as changing the spark plug gap!

    Or you could always pull base timing and throw gobs of wet nitrous at it.

    A friend of mine has not less than 70 bottles of giggle juice at his shop at any given time and he's never afraid to use it.

    On his quickest setup we had a spray bar between the upper and lower intake and another by the EGR spacer and a 3rd in the intake tract. His nickname is spraystang so you know darn well he's spraying it to death and even out of the hole and shifts wheels up.

    By his jets he was ramping in a total of 350 by the time the wheels are back on the ground. 3 pretty big kits by 3rd gear. That car was stripped of everything but the drivers seat and gauges but the piece of crap ran. HARD. AFAIK low 9's. And a small number of high 8.90's.

    And when a stock 302 ****s the bed the pulls it and gets a new $500 victim. Harder to come by these days so he's stopped being quite so abusive but when you're getting 5-6 outings and maybe 30 passes fast out of a motor before it gives up the ghost .... why not.

    A lazy 200HP motor becomes a 550HP+ rock star at the push of a button until it goes POP. Or kaboom!

    sure am glad I never ran into him when I was out racing for cash. yikes.

  21. #21
    FEP Power Member David Claflin's Avatar
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    A 26x10 slick will work better than that M/T ET street. That's a 27" tire, and a slick is way more forgiving to not so great track surfaces, and easier on parts too.
    Pulling the P/S side inner headlight and doing some cutting behind it to run a piece of pipe through it right into inlet tube, if you're inclined to take that step.
    With my stock 86 engine, just added exhaust and intake, I got it down to 8.03, but found I had dragging brakes, so would have been into the 7's with it if I had corrected that.
    1990 Red LX, ported explorer heads and intakes, weenie cam, 1 3/4 long accufabs, 3" exhaust, T5, 4.88
    1985 LTD LX, Mach1 brakes, 17" Mopar police car wheels. 7.86@86MPH with 302, 3640 pounds with 1/4 tank of gas and me in it. 331 build in progress
    1984 LTD station wagon, with 84GT nose, some might remember it as the old Dugan Racing station wagon.
    1986 FHP coupe, yet another work in progress

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