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  1. #1
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    Default Maximum motorsports steering shaft

    Never really been 100% satisfied with the way my car goes down the road ever since I rebuilt the front end.did everything by the book.replaced everything.the only thing I didn’t change or replace was the steering shaft.I did change the rag joint out a few years back.is it worth the money? Anything to make my steering better is worth it.would this make a substantial difference?

  2. #2

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    I did the steering shaft and SN-95 rack at the same time so I can't state how much difference the shaft made by itself. That being said, there was a very welcome improvement in steering feel and accuracy with the rack/shaft upgrades.

    Caster/Camber plates also help.
    Jeremiah

    1986 Mustang GT 5spd, 3.27's
    PimpXS ECU/Android Single DIN Touchscreen
    SN95 Cobra Brakes/SN95 Front LCA's/Axles/S197 Wheels
    1998 Explorer Engine/Stock HO Cam 281rwhp/326rwtq

  3. #3
    FEP Member Hans's Avatar
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    I'll let you know.
    The MMST-11 is being mounted today in my car.
    Give me some time because we hardly drive due Covid.
    From the garage to home is 1 mile. That is not enough to give relevant feedback.
    There is salt on the roads and an evening clock. Musty and I don't get out the door much lately.

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn ALE-L21 met Tapatalk

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    I have the flaming river shaft in my pace car and it's ok... not great. I swapped it over to manual steering. There's actually nothing wrong with it, but I just don't care for the design. Too many small bolts that I have to worry about. I sent my buddy some info on cutting the old rag joint out of the stock shaft and installing a u-joint. He did it and it turned out great. This was in his 82gt, which I gave him. We ended up trading and I have the car now. I plan to do the same thing to my 79 cobra and 82 capri.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxmatt View Post
    Never really been 100% satisfied with the way my car goes down the road ever since I rebuilt the front end...is it worth the money? Anything to make my steering better is worth it.would this make a substantial difference?
    You're not 100% satisfied. OK, what specifically are you not satisfied with? Hard to tell you if a new steering shaft is going to get you the improvement you want without knowing what you're trying to improve.

    Jeremiah raises a good point - do you have caster/camber plates? What are your alignment settings? What car are you dealing with?
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  6. #6
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    I have some back story on the car in this thread..I just seems to wander a little too much for my liking..plus my steering wheel isn’t centered and I would like to get rid of that terrible rag joint.I do like that the maximum Motorsports shaft is welded.where the other ones are nut and bolt..I’m just hoping if I do get it,it will take a little more side to side play out of the wheel.
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...666-ssp-wheels

  7. #7
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    Wandering is a sign of too little or no toe in. If you don't have enough toe in it will wander side to side or follow the grooves in the road. Straight or no toe in is good for drag racing but not street driving.

  8. #8

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    Lack of caster also attributes to the light 'on center' feel.
    Jeremiah

    1986 Mustang GT 5spd, 3.27's
    PimpXS ECU/Android Single DIN Touchscreen
    SN95 Cobra Brakes/SN95 Front LCA's/Axles/S197 Wheels
    1998 Explorer Engine/Stock HO Cam 281rwhp/326rwtq

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member qtrracer's Avatar
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    Could be tramlining too. How much of the front end was rebuilt? Did the rebuild include new inner tie-rod ends and ball joints? What about rack bushings? New bearings? Any or all of these can make the car wander.

    On my 86, I replaced the stock rag joint steering shaft with the MM piece. The steering gave me more feed-back than the stock system and seemed more precise. But I also had new 03 Cobra A-arms, sn95 spindles, Cobra front brakes and good tires. Since I do my own alignments, I had toe, camber and caster set to my specifications. But wider tires do seem to track with road irregularities - known as tramlining mentioned above.

  10. #10
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    I finally went ahead and ordered the mm steering shaft today.can’t wait to rid of this garbage rag joint.after I install this,I was referred to a shop locally to do the final adjustments on my mm caster/camber plates.I had a alignment after I did the front end over.but the guy only did the toe..I have all stock components other than poly spring isolators,and Motorsport b springs.eibach sway bars.15 inch steel ssp wheels.is their any factory settings or any other info I should let the shop know? Like a base setting? I’m a weekend warrior and no plans to race on a track.I’d like a stock feel

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by qtrracer View Post
    Could be tramlining too. How much of the front end was rebuilt? Did the rebuild include new inner tie-rod ends and ball joints? What about rack bushings? New bearings? Any or all of these can make the car wander.

    On my 86, I replaced the stock rag joint steering shaft with the MM piece. The steering gave me more feed-back than the stock system and seemed more precise. But I also had new 03 Cobra A-arms, sn95 spindles, Cobra front brakes and good tires. Since I do my own alignments, I had toe, camber and caster set to my specifications. But wider tires do seem to track with road irregularities - known as tramlining mentioned above.
    Good info! Never heard of that before.

  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxmatt View Post
    I finally went ahead and ordered the mm steering shaft today.can’t wait to rid of this garbage rag joint.after I install this,I was referred to a shop locally to do the final adjustments on my mm caster/camber plates.I had a alignment after I did the front end over.but the guy only did the toe..I have all stock components other than poly spring isolators,and Motorsport b springs.eibach sway bars.15 inch steel ssp wheels.is their any factory settings or any other info I should let the shop know? Like a base setting? I’m a weekend warrior and no plans to race on a track.I’d like a stock feel
    The MM C/C plate install instructions include recommendations. Personally, I feel their recommendations are too conservative, even for a street car. They say -0.75* camber, +/- 0.25* for the street; I would say even -1.0 is too little, and would aim for -1.5*, +/- 0.25*. Better handling, better tire wear. Probably as much positive caster as you can get, keeping it equal on both sides (otherwise it will pull to one side).
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

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