Is there a trick to removing seat floor studs?

[richpet]

I sprayed them with penetrant. In an 81 the rear two bolts are studs. I want to remove them and install longer studs or threaded rod so that I can raise the rear of the seat track a bit and have enough length below to go through the subframe connecter brackets. Carpet is in so heat is a bad idea.
Is there a special tool, bit or ? To get a good grip on it?

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[stangPlus2Birds]

Yes, but it's not cheap.
Use an induction heater. I have an older one that I bought used on ebay many years ago.
Imho, it's a life saver for getting rusted/etc bolts/nuts/etc off where I can't use an open flame.
NOTE: Put wet towels on the top of the stud and carpet. The bolt/nut can get much hotter than with a torch. The difference is the speed at which the part heats, and the heat is concentrated between the coils.


Here's one on Amazon that has good ratings, and is one of the lowest cost induction heaters you can buy. Imho, it looks like it's more than good enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Solary-Magnet...dp/B0851C6Q22/

Solary Magnetic Induction Heater Kit 1000W 110V For Automotive Flameless Heat Induction Heat 1KW Hand Tool
Price: $188.00






Videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uimEZKrVNO0
Mini-Ductor II - Flameless Heat System - MD-700 - MADE IN USA
Real Tool Reviews



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ya8fxm89jk
A Cool Tool for Removing Rusted bolts and fasteners
Warman Autoworks LLC



Google Video Search:
https://www.google.com/search?q=indu...heater&tbm=vid



Good Luck!

[87gtVIC]

Double nut it. Thread one down enough so you can get another nut on top of it. tighten the two together and then use the lower nut to loosen up the stud with a wrench and some leverage.

[richpet]

I was thinking of the double nut this morning. I noticed the top of the stud was squared so didn't know if there was a special 'bit' for it or not, though the square is smaller than the diameter of the stud so didn't think it would work without rounding.
I also have a heat gun, though I have heard good things of those induction heaters.
Think I will spray again and try the double nut.
If that fails I will go 'hotter'.
Thanky!

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[87gtVIC]

You would burn the carpet before the heat gun does anything to the stud.

[KevinK]

You might try turning it in first to get it moving. The bottom side will be rusty and crusty.

[richpet]

Double nut didn't do it. Going to just say 'copulate' it for now, run with it. Planning new seats next year more then likely so I will deal with it then. Pull up the carpet, etc.

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[massacre]

I know this may be an unorthidox way to handle this-

But I was thinking what if you used coupling nuts?




You could likely trim it shorter if needed.
At the very least, it could allow you to adjust the height and get it to where you want it, so you could take some measurements.
Not really a solution to your problem but it might help on the interior side at least to get the height where you want it.
Then when you measure that plus the subframes it might be more accurate.

Or maybe it’s a dumb idea, just thinking that you could sit in the seat and dial in the height you need a little easier.

[richpet]

Not a dumb idea at all. It could solve half the problem. As long as the coupling nuts are not too tall, it would allow the seat to be tilted forward and up a bit. No, it does nothing for under the car, but it might be a good half way there idea.
Hm.
Figured with longer studs/threaded rod they'd just hang down and I would hit them with a cut off wheel.

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[gr79]

Possible the studs were installed off line using an air tool and special socket that fits the stud flat.
Suppliers usually do that in a fixture before shipping to plants.
Picture brackets with pre-installed studs welded to floor pan early in the build at DAP.

Have the same task on the list.
Longer fasteners to get those sfc cross braces up tight to the floor.
Will be using new grade 8 flange bolts, head of bolt under car, anti-seize and paint.
Cut, drill, and add steel plate doublers inside with 2 stud clearance holes across where the floor pans crack.
Shim seat angle with washers to taste.

If heat is known to bust rust, heat only the bottom end of the stud under the floor pan?
Chances are the inside car part of the anchor stud is in good shape.

A-Thinking wire brushing and heating the outside stud threads with a pocket torch first, then rust buster spray soak.
Then tighten double nuts and attempt to back out stud from floor pan from inside car.
B-Epoxy one nut and blast it out with an impact gun. Lucky if both nuts would lock with all the flats lined up for a socket.
C-Hack saw studs off flush inside (if haven't snapped off already from double nut trial). Drill out remainder of stud.

[gr79]

I used coupler nuts ds with aftermarket seat.
Needed to raise and level rear of seat. Floor studs were too short.
They also work fine to extend a 3/8-16 Hurst shifter knob up another inch in my Ranger.
Removed the hexes by turning them, chucked into a drill press. Files, emery paper, polish.

[gr79]

Thinking about trying out this tool when the time comes.
Vice grips, pipe wrench grip would be iffy and would be hard to swing near the floor.
If it works once, will pay for itself.
Maybe will tread two grade 8 nuts first as backup plan before stud threads get chewed up.

https://www.autozone.com/tools-and-e...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[wraithracing]

I have had good luck the last few years with Free All from Oreilly's Auto. You might find it elsewhere, but that is where I first found it. It has worked when other penetrating lubes have not. Actually smells pretty good and is clear, so shouldn't stain the carpet. I have always used the double nut method to remove studs and then use a wrench and pipe to break them loose. Sometime one hard pull to tighten will help, sometimes not. Some are just plain stubborn and don't want to come out, others are pretty cooperative. Worse case, I have double nutted the stud and used red loctite. Allowed it to sit overnight and then was able to get it loose the next day. Good Luck!

[richpet]

All good thoughts. At this point I reinstalled the carpet and driver's seat. I used the WD40 brand penetrant. Does NOT smell good. Have to check O'reilly's out as there is one on my way home from work before I leave town.
Double nut didn't work and I was running out of daylight so decided not to try heat.
A project for later though.
That stud extractor from the 'Zone might be worth a shot!

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[Foxy 83.5]

You may want to try freezing the bolts. I’ve used CO2 from a paint ball tank before. Also used canned air like you use to clean a computer keyboard. The quick freezing cracked the rust / corrosion bond. Just don’t get frostbite!

[richpet]

Thought of that too, thanks. There's a product called Freeze Out that does that and incorporates a penetrant. It has worked well for me in the past.
Still thinking the stud remover from that 'Zone might do it.

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