1979 Block and 300 HP?

[saleen428]

I am at a cross-roads with my coupe and looking for input from real life experiences. I have a 99.9% stock Ghia coupe 5.0 and manual trans. My vision for the car is to update the suspension and driveline for increased performance to make it a fun street beast. I have purchased most all of my parts which includes a 347 stroker motor, T5 tranny. I now have an opportunity to buy a 66 Mustang and would like to put the 347/t5 in that car. This then leaves me with updating my 79 motor which is in great running order. I do have a pair Edelbrock RPM heads, Performer RPM intake, and Holley carb on the shelf and would add a custom cam to the package. Any real concerns with these parts going on the 79 stock block?

[bkm]

If you're starting from scratch, I'd just find a late model roller block. I'm sure the 79 block will be fine though if you plan on using a flat tappet cam.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[dynodon64]

That block isn't going to be a problem unless you skimp on the block prep work. It will most likely need bored over and deck squared, maybe even line bored. If that work is done, you won't have any problems with the power you want. 300 hp is very easy to get with a stock 302 set up. The 347 could easily get to 400 hp safely as well.

[bwguardian]

Pull the heads and see what it looks like...you may be surprised. As stated above, 300 hp isn't that hard to get to...but if you're going to twist it, I would get some good rod bolts in place.

[saleen428]

So my plan is to run a compression check first, if good readings will progress to pull heads and inspect but the idea is to use the stock block as is. Car was well maintained all its life as far as I can tell and is dead nuts reliable as a daily. Will only twist it to 6k and no more

[Ethyl Cat]

Evaluate the engine with a compression and leakdown test first.

If you get a flat tappet made on a quality core I would not be afraid of it. Use the correct oil/additives along with it and it will give long life and good performance.

With your heads it wont take much cam at all for 300hp. I think you can get away with stock rod bolts if you stay around 5500 rpm or so.

If you plan on rod bolts and a cam with a head swap, you might as well pull the engine and freshen it up because the rods should be redone with a bolt change and you are 80% there anyway.

What cam type are your heads set up for? If you don't know you might want to have that figured out as well.

Another thing to consider is compression with the swap. What is stock and how do you raise it as much as possible with the parts you have.

[Ethyl Cat]

You replied while I was typing.

[saleen428]

You replied while I was typing.

No worries lol. I have no issues with using a flat tappet cam. Are the con rod bolts the weak link?

[Ethyl Cat]

RPM is what kills them and you seem to be aware of that. Problem is that the little basterds love to rev!!

[Ethyl Cat]

Your stock heads look to be 58cc chambers are your Edelbrocks 64cc? If so you will lose nearly a point of compression from your stock 8.4:1. Not good

Going to take some work to get the compression up. If not a cam swap will not help much.

[saleen428]

Your stock heads look to be 58cc chambers are your Edelbrocks 64cc? If so you will lose nearly a point of compression from your stock 8.4:1. Not good

Going to take some work to get the compression up. If not a cam swap will not help much.

Stock D9 heads are 67-70cc. The Eddie’s are 60cc. Should be right around 9.2 ish?

[Ethyl Cat]

OK
Sorry, I had bad info.

70 down to 60cc will be a bit over 1 full point of compression.

I would also run the thinnest head gasket you can. Compression is your friend. Power and efficiency all in one.

[saleen428]

Thanks man. I just noticed your sig and sent you a PM.