Close



Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    819

    Default Heater core delete

    looking at deleting my heater core as this car will only be a nice weather driver and will be stored once it starts getting cold. Does a guy just plug the lines at the firewall with a U shape hose then connect lower water pump line to intake fitting, keeping the upper water pump line running to thermostat?
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Lowell, Oregon
    Posts
    2,138

    Default

    I think you'd go from bypass on the pump to the intake manifold?
    Coolant flows from the intake to the heater core and back in to the pump.
    You could just connect the ends of the hose together of course with an adapter, but I'd get that you'd have hoses under hood in that case for no purpose, but it makes it easy to hook back up if you decide to go out on a cool winter day that's dry.
    Just an opinion, but why not leave it connected, in case you're out cruising one evening and it gets cool enough that you'd like to use it?

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    819

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by richpet View Post
    I think you'd go from bypass on the pump to the intake manifold?
    Coolant flows from the intake to the heater core and back in to the pump.
    You could just connect the ends of the hose together of course with an adapter, but I'd get that you'd have hoses under hood in that case for no purpose, but it makes it easy to hook back up if you decide to go out on a cool winter day that's dry.
    Just an opinion, but why not leave it connected, in case you're out cruising one evening and it gets cool enough that you'd like to use it?

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    I think that's what I was talking about when I said lower pump line. Just didn't know it is called the bypass lol. As for why I'm not leaving it. I bought the car with the motor pulled so it was never connected in the first place. I've done a ton of work to this thing and I just want to get it running and driving first. Don't really care about heat as of now. Once the car is performing and half ass reliable I may want some heat in it but right now it's not a priority.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Lowell, Oregon
    Posts
    2,138

    Default

    I assume you have a non-AC car? Boatloads easier since the core is behind the glove box and not the dash!

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    819

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by richpet View Post
    I assume you have a non-AC car? Boatloads easier since the core is behind the glove box and not the dash!

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Nope it's a factory a/c car. Why would it matter though I'm not removing the actual core. Can't I Just want to plug lines and bypass it?
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 11-28-2020 at 04:30 PM.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Lowell, Oregon
    Posts
    2,138

    Default

    It doesn't in that case. If the motor is out, is the dash also out? If so a new one is a good idea, with a restrictor. Beats pulling the dash again in the future.
    If not, don't worry about it, but do install the restrictor if you hook it back up.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    819

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by richpet View Post
    It doesn't in that case. If the motor is out, is the dash also out? If so a new one is a good idea, with a restrictor. Beats pulling the dash again in the future.
    If not, don't worry about it, but do install the restrictor if you hook it back up.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Nope dash is still in. Ya when I'm ready I will order the lmr kit that comes with the restrictor. Thanks for the help!
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Lowell, Oregon
    Posts
    2,138

    Default



    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Lowell, Oregon
    Posts
    2,138

    Default

    Just a thought - if you do bypass the core, I would put a pair of rubber caps over the ends of the core inlet/outlet pipes. Wouldn't want any critters taking up residence that become a blockage down the road if you hook it back up. Unless that's what you meant in your first post with a U-shaped hose.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    819

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by richpet View Post
    Just a thought - if you do bypass the core, I would put a pair of rubber caps over the ends of the core inlet/outlet pipes. Wouldn't want any critters taking up residence that become a blockage down the road if you hook it back up. Unless that's what you meant in your first post with a U-shaped hose.
    Yup that's what I meant. Another question I had was it seems like my outlets from my water pump are very close to me alternator bracket. The hose that will run from pump to thermostat seems fine bit the other one I'm not sure will fit without causing a kink in hose. I've watched videos and it shows a gap where the hose can run through but mine bracket is solid. Any thoughts? Here is a pick. Sorry for the small pic, I hope you can make it out. Board makes you edit picks heavily now.
    Attachment 134587
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 11-29-2020 at 03:47 PM.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    2,274

    Default

    They make rubber caps to go over the water pump nipples with a hose clamp. Probably 3/4" and 5/8".
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    819

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    They make rubber caps to go over the water pump nipples with a hose clamp. Probably 3/4" and 5/8".
    Pardon my ignorance but why would I cap them? Do I not have to still connect one to the thermostat housing and one to the intake?
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  13. #13
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Lowell, Oregon
    Posts
    2,138

    Default

    I think he meant heater core pipes.
    I bought a generic elbow hose and ran it down under the bracket for my build. It means an extra splice, but that's better than a kink in the line.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  14. #14
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,209

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sask84gt View Post
    Pardon my ignorance but why would I cap them? Do I not have to still connect one to the thermostat housing and one to the intake?
    There are two fittings on the water pump and one fitting on the intake. The fitting on the intake is the coolant OUT of the engine and to the Heater Core. Of the two fittings on the water pump the Left fitting should be the IN for coolant returning from the Heater Core. The Right fitting should be the Bypass fitting that goes to the Thermostat Housing. If you are not running a heater core, you can simply cap the two fittings that would send and receive coolant to/from the heater core. You can also run a loop of hose between the two if you want. There is coolant pressure on the fitting of the intake and suction on the fitting on the water pump, but only up to the maximum rating of the radiator cap of @ 16lbs. So capping them is not an issue if using good quality rubber caps. I do recommend capping the heater core tubes also just in case. Hope that helps!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  15. #15
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    819

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    There are two fittings on the water pump and one fitting on the intake. The fitting on the intake is the coolant OUT of the engine and to the Heater Core. Of the two fittings on the water pump the Left fitting should be the IN for coolant returning from the Heater Core. The Right fitting should be the Bypass fitting that goes to the Thermostat Housing. If you are not running a heater core, you can simply cap the two fittings that would send and receive coolant to/from the heater core. You can also run a loop of hose between the two if you want. There is coolant pressure on the fitting of the intake and suction on the fitting on the water pump, but only up to the maximum rating of the radiator cap of @ 16lbs. So capping them is not an issue if using good quality rubber caps. I do recommend capping the heater core tubes also just in case. Hope that helps!
    Thanks Trey, ya that helps. I will just run the hose from the bypass on the water pump to the thermostat and cap the intake and the other water pump fitting as well as the fittings on the fire wall. Thanks everyone for all your help.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •