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  1. #1

    Default 1985 Vacuum canister missing

    Gentlemen, I have a 1985 fox body that I converted to Holly sniper EFI. I was looking to connect the HVAC system to the reservoir canister in the right fender; however, I cannot find the reservoir canister and was wondering if 85 even had that. I seem to remember when I disassembled the car there were vacuum lines that ran inside the fender That were associated with the vacuum system, but when I pulled the skirt back all I found was this.Name:  788402E1-1965-4293-B8F5-015897840243.jpeg
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    Thanks, Carey

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    If it was born an automatic 5.0 HO, its CFi, and the EECIV package doesn't have the Altitude Compensator Solenoids



    if it was born a stick shift 5.0 HO, it was 4bbl. It has a gutted out partial EECIV, a Two Stage Accessory Drive, and depending on destination state, the the Altitude Compensator Solenoids were normally Hi Altitiude. If your buck tag has a DSO for Denver or Colorado, that's why its there.

    but I think your maybee just looking for the purge emissions parts. I don't like non FMV certified non emissions EFI. But I like EFi, so its pretty easy to re-establish the spirit and letter of the law without removing too much stuff. Key thing...once its Emissions cloths are off, its hard to just be friends again. So try to keep it around.

    Holley Sniper EFI is not emissions certified, so the purge emissions, number One and Four below, will probably need a workaround like suggested to Sask84gt by 0F0 CBR in post #13. If you want to keep it.


    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ssenger-fender



    Again, All the OEM emissions packages varied depending on destination state.

    Quote Originally Posted by 86Stripper View Post
    Good news. Your engine compartment does not look very hacked up at all. Actually looks quite nice.

    The systems you need are:

    1. Charcoal canister purge for the gas tank

    2. EGR

    3. Smog pump system

    4. PCV

    Technical diagrams etc are posted above. What I'll try and do is go through the systems with individual pictures. My car is 1986 GT Automatic without AC with fairly low miles that is very original and all the systems work so if yours is a 5 speed things may be a little different. You also have AC. I don't know how much different this is but it does make things more crowded.

    Lets start with the charcoal canister system. Do you have it? Pictures are posted below.


    A 5th dimension was the Hi Altitude package, not found on CA Mustangs.

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Sask84gt

    Ford typically punch out a lot of Silent Warrior electronics. The Distrovac Boss 302 and M code 351ho 4V Clevelands had a engine speed sensor in 1969.

    Crank position sensors for 1979-1983 V8 Feedback 5.0/5.8/6.6's,

    The hidden relays for the electronic fuel pump EECIV's,

    the Two Stage Accessory Drives,

    and through it all, the lack of proper data allows a lot of smack talk that will have you stripping crap off of your ride first chance.


    The Altitude Compensator Solenoids are the same. There were four solenoids, one electrically controlled, the other 3 slaves, manifolded via 90 degree joiners to a diode and one white purge valve restrictor. The four solenoid, 20 junction ACS fender unit is a simple work around to solve a problem.



    Ford were forced into this by Federal law.

    For 1984, it was tied into the three port TAB solenoid. This was a switch which cut out the TAB under WOT, and all '83 and '84 4V engines got it. The AC too was cut under WOT.

    By 1985, the five speed only 5.0 HO 4V engines, the TAB solenoid is controlled by the TSAD module, which used a gutted 60 pin EECIV controller called a Two Speed Accessory Drive, a transitional state accessory drive system that had a grey or red module reporting to it, and only Hi Altitude cars had the extra four solenoid, 20 junction ACS fender unit. California 1985 cars didn't have it .



    For 85's, the 4V HO is still an non feedback, non computer control engine, but its accessories are computer controlled in part.

    By these duffers.










    [/img]

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Here is a summary of the way to restore a functioning purge system with no EGR


    Quote Originally Posted by cb84capri View Post
    i just wanted to post up a quick update.

    i got the entire system installed a while ago but just got the car on the road recently.

    the difference is amazing. the car always stunk inside while sitting at lights, but i thought it was due to having no cats and the exhaust blowing in. no, it was that uncapped vapor hose tucked in the fender. my girlfriend who didn't even know what i did to the car over the winter, aside from rebuilding the transmission even said "wow, the car doesn't smell bad anymore."

    driving it, there are no drivability problems. i just went out in the garage. the car is sitting there and i can't smell any fuel. man it stunk before, sweet!

    i hid the lines in the fender so it looks pretty clean.

    thanks to all that helped me figure this out.

    cale

    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    You can hook the manifold vacuum line from the purge valve to the tree on the
    back of the intake if you don't have the EGR spacer anymore. The brown delay
    valve goes in the line between your distributor vacuum source and the purge
    valve. You can just tee into the line to the distributor.

    The numbers on the delay valves are engineering numbers, and are not the best
    way to identify the valves. I've got two brown-sided valves with the same number
    molded into 'em, and they work exactly opposite each other. Fortunately, that's
    not so important for this project.

    What you want is the valve to be installed so that it resists applying vacuum
    to the purge valve, and easily releases the purge valve when vacuum goes away.
    Or to put it another way, the end you can blow through goes toward the purge
    valve.
    Quote Originally Posted by cb84capri View Post
    to further complicate things for the better, i got this stuff:



    those two things on the right i believe to be delay valves. the brown/white one says dist on the brown side, vac on the white side. has a ford code E3AE-DA

    the black/white valve says dist on the black side, and carb on the white side. it has the ford part number E3AE-EA.

    should i use these? i only have one ported vacuum source on my carb and it's hooked to my vacuum advance on my distributor. i was thinking i should tee this line and run one side to the purge valve. on the other side of the tee distributor side i would put one of these delay valves. is this right? what valve should i use?

    and on the far right i got the fitting for the charcoal canister. i'm going to replace the split o-ring (i can't believe i got this thing out of the cannister without breaking anything! after seeing it's design), but you'll notice the orifice valve. i looked on every car for that red one but none of them had it. and for my next question:



    is this where that fitting goes? his canister looks different from mine on top. on the top left side of my canister around the perimeter of the square where the vent is it says 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 in a counterclockwise direction from the 10 o'clock. on the right side in the same manner its says G F E D C B A. you can actually see what i'm talking about in my pic in post #34. i just want to know for sure because it will be a PITA to get the fitting out if it matter what side it goes in.

    and thanks again for helping me with this, i'd be lost without you guys.

    cale

    Quote Originally Posted by GTJerry View Post
    ....The brown/black check valve that I showed in the earlier photo (the one that's broken) has the same E3A-DA number as yours. Not sure where the black/white valve would go. The brown/black one is used in my two 85s.

    ......pics show two cannisters from two different 85s. Both with numbers as you described for the cannister you have.





    Jerry

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    its important to read other peoples posts on this.


    Quote Originally Posted by brian.aughe View Post
    The true curse of modding a car,, is demodding it so you can get back to enjoying it.
    Very interested to see how your project works out.

    Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by 0F0 CBR View Post
    I see this thread and project is very similar to what I am working on.
    The fuel tank vent hose on my car has been left open and tucked into the fender ever since I pulled the 4 cyl turbo 28 years ago.
    It always smelled of gas and and if I plugged the vent hose it would develop an air lock and the engine would quit after a few miles.
    To make matters worse, I unknowing bought a marine carb at the local swap meet and have been using it for the same time period.
    The main difference with marine carb is there are no vacuum ports or spark ports, as boats rarely idle and the are rpms are fairly constant.
    Left picture below.


    The only port on it is above the choke plates at the very top - I've read it is to get plumbed to the fuel pump overflow on a boat to prevent spills.

    I am now putting in a charcoal canister and purge system, but do not have a spark port to plumb the to the purge valve pilot.
    The schematic below is the circuit I have come up with, I think in theory they work similar.




    The difference this will purge all of the time even at idle, when plumbed to the spark port, the purge valve only opens to purge the canister at part throttle.
    The temperature switch is to disable it when the engine is cold.
    I will let you know how it works after installed, i'm a little concerned about the constant vacuum leak at idle, might have to play with orifice sizes.

    Its amazing how we first spend all of our time and money making modifications, and later spend all of our time and money trying to put it back to original.
    Eventually I will get rid of this carb and put in an EFI Carb unit.

  5. #5

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    Thanks for all the detailed information. However, I’m still unsure regarding a vacuum canister. I pull the skirt back and cannot seem to find one. Did the 85 have this? It’s my understanding it’s needed for the HVAC system when high loads are placed on the engine in order to maintain vacuum and prevent the system from switching to defrost. Also, I have replace the holly carburetor with a holly sniper EFI. With this set up I will not be utilizing the smog pump and EGR system.
    Name:  0B4D41A0-D9BB-4475-A6CD-AA2AB0260E69.jpeg
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  6. #6

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    Found it! It’s in the front behind the battery tray on the right hand side.
    Name:  22310140-AD0F-48E6-A27E-F73F3B834FF2.jpeg
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  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 320driver View Post
    Found it! It’s in the front behind the battery tray on the right hand side.
    Name:  22310140-AD0F-48E6-A27E-F73F3B834FF2.jpeg
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    Yup just found mine a couple days ago. Same spot.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    I just finished hooking the vacuum canister up for my 84 with the help of fellow member "At the junkyard" My line from the vacuum canister was cut. I replaced with small rubber vacuum hose and ran it up into the engine bay. Bought a four seasons heater check valve part #74808. Connected the hose from the canister as well as the line coming out of firewall by the ac tubes. Connected other end to the second port on my vacuum tree.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

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