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Thread: Por 15

  1. #1

    Default Por 15

    With the newest of the 4 eye cars being 34 years old rust is inevitable. The 85 Capri I have picked up is in pretty good shape. There are some problem areas of course that will need to be fixed. Some of the known problem areas are starting to show signs of rust. Thus I feel it is important to do some preventative maintenence. Has anyone used por 15 or a similar product with positive results?

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
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    Yes we use it at resto shop all the time.. worth the money and don't get it on you it won't come off

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdsgallops View Post
    With the newest of the 4 eye cars being 34 years old rust is inevitable. The 85 Capri I have picked up is in pretty good shape. There are some problem areas of course that will need to be fixed. Some of the known problem areas are starting to show signs of rust. Thus I feel it is important to do some preventative maintenence. Has anyone used por 15 or a similar product with positive results?
    Or:
    https://tamcopaint.com/collections/p...direct-to-rust

    https://tamcopaint.com/collections/p...cts/dta-primer

  4. #4
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    Good stuff but needs to be top coated before it cures.
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    Probably 30 years ago we had the undercarriage of our '67 Chevy sand blasted and coated with POR-15. We top coated it with semi-flat black. Still looks good today. it is mildly expensive, but it is good stuff. As noted, don't get it on your skin. It takes a long time to get off.
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  6. #6

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    And make sure the can edge is clean before closing it up. You’ll destroy the can trying to open it the next time. Ask me how I know
    W

    As always, "It ain't what you don't know that gets you, it's what you think you know that just ain't so."

  7. #7

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    It’s very difficult to get off once applied so think about any future panel replacement/welding you might want to do.
    Steve

    1983 Mustang GT
    Popular Hot Rodding Project Car '83/84

  8. #8

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    I have used POR15 and it worked OK but I think some of the Eastwood stuff works better. Just my opinion
    79 Zephyr, 4v/4r70w swap planned, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs.

  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    It's probably the most durable paint I've ever used. I bought a pretty nice powder coat kit recently, but
    it scratches much easier than I thought powder coat should. The POR-15, I used on my EXO cage on a full
    size bronco and for years rubbing that cage up against trees and it's still there. It also goes on thicker than
    even powder coat and much thicker on a single coat than any other paint you could spray.

    And yes, on a rusty surface that is at least cleaned of rust particles falling off, and grease/oil, it paints right
    over the rusty spot and lasts for at least 10 years.
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
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  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamCapri View Post
    And make sure the can edge is clean before closing it up. You’ll destroy the can trying to open it the next time. Ask me how I know
    I use a very large sheet metal screw in the side of can near the top. POR-15 dries around screw
    to seal in paint and you don't have to mess with top, ever.
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by OX1 View Post
    I use a very large sheet metal screw in the side of can near the top. POR-15 dries around screw
    to seal in paint and you don't have to mess with top, ever.
    Now that is a great idea! Those lids have given me so much grief even after cleaning them and the lip on the can. They still stick.

    Thanks for sharing!
    '84.5 GT vert / roller 5 liter 4v / t5
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    Quote Originally Posted by graphicdesigner80 View Post
    Now that is a great idea! Those lids have given me so much grief even after cleaning them and the lip on the can. They still stick.

    Thanks for sharing!
    Just go to a local paint store and pay the $2 for a few extra cans and lids.

  13. #13
    FEP Senior Member 854vragtop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by massacre View Post
    I have used POR15 and it worked OK but I think some of the Eastwood stuff works better. Just my opinion
    I completely agree that Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator (used to be called Correless) is a better product. I prepped the roofs of both my '68 Cougars back in the 90's prior to putting on new vinyl tops. These were done about a year apart in around 1993/1994. The roof that I used POR 15 on now has rust bubbles underneath the top. The roof with Eastwood's product has no rust bubbles whatsoever. In another area of the chassis near the front strut rod mounts, the POR 15 just peeled off after a few years. I took a lots of time to grind out the rust and prep the surfaces with metal conditioner and naval jelly prior to applying both products.
    Last edited by 854vragtop; 11-25-2020 at 07:55 PM.
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  14. #14

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    Tha ks for all the suggestions and tips!

  15. #15
    FEP Power Member David Claflin's Avatar
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    I use alcohol to clean the lid and groove before putting lid back on, also alcohol will clean off from skin if you get it before it dries.


    Edit: There's also rattle can POR-15 available now too.
    Last edited by David Claflin; 01-06-2021 at 01:48 PM.
    1990 Red LX, ported explorer heads and intakes, weenie cam, 1 3/4 long accufabs, 3" exhaust, T5, 4.88
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    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OX1 View Post
    I use a very large sheet metal screw in the side of can near the top. POR-15 dries around screw
    to seal in paint and you don't have to mess with top, ever.
    My last can I transferred to a mason jar with the sealing lid. Keep it in the fridge. Way better than that stupid can.
    Mustangs
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  17. #17
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    Put the can lid in a plastic sandwich bag. Hammer the lid back on the can. Reopens every time.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
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  18. #18
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
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    I put a piece of plastic wrap over the top of the can before putting the lid back on. It works, but I also found that once opened, you had better use the entire contents of the can rather quickly.

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