Hello,
Is there any harm in over torquing the differential pinion shaft bolt in my 8.8 rear? Can it be loosened and re-torqued?
Thanks
Tom
Hello,
Is there any harm in over torquing the differential pinion shaft bolt in my 8.8 rear? Can it be loosened and re-torqued?
Thanks
Tom
Last edited by 63roundbody; 11-20-2020 at 05:31 PM.
Only if you don't mind it potentially snapping and breaking, and then making a trip through Dante's Nine Circles of Hell look like child's play compared to getting that broken bolt out.
It's already installed and not broken.
But, you want to remove it and re-torque it?
Fwiw, iirc, ??you should put some blue Loctite on the bolt.??
Also, Amazon now sells the bolt extraction kit. So, it's not like it was in the 90's, where the "bolt extraction kit" was more myth than reality.
Back in the 90's, removing broken pinion bolts could result in epic-long threads, sometimes resulting in the person deciding that 20lbs of C4 explosive was the best way to handle that differential (hopefully removed from the car first). :-)
I do remember at least 1 person just replacing the rear-end instead (iirc, they had a spare rear-end, and it often doesn't take long for someone that's replaced them before).
Good Luck!
Last edited by stangPlus2Birds; 11-20-2020 at 07:52 PM.
It's installed but, over torqued a little. Just want to know if it's going to be a problem. The bolt is new with factory locktite.
Thanks
Tom
I guess it depends on what over torqued a little means. I'm pretty sure whenever I install those I just tighten it "just right" with a 1/4" ratchet. I don't know if I've ever used a torque wrench. If it survived then I would probably just call it good. As mentioned they can be a real pain if they do break.
'89 XR-7 5 Speed
'95 SC 5 Speed
'91 Crown Vic P72 351W
'97 Thunderbird
'85 Ford LTD Squire
Thank you very much. It's not broken and when the new gears are broken in and I have to change the fluid I may get a new bolt and torque it correctly.
Tom
Can you over torque the bolt . . . SURE! Although I would have to say I am world famous for maximum torque-age! If tight is good, too tight is just right!
I have never broken the bolt while installing, but I have had to drill one out and I don't recommend it. Although if you end up in that situation, PM me and I will give you the secret.
I generally install mine using a 12 pt box end wrench and just tighten hand tight with a good snug pull and blue loctite. I haven't had one come loose yet. If yours is a new bolt and had OEM loctite, I wouldn't worry about it. If it makes you feel better, check that its tight when you drain the fluid and if so, leave it alone. Good luck!
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently
Current Capris:
1981 Capri Roller
1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
You stated "pinion shaft bolt", but are you in fact referring to the pinion shaft nut?
HAD
'82 GT monochromatic (red)...black cloth
HAVE
'85 GT vert two tone (white on charcoal)...white leather
'00 F350 two tone (white on silver)...gray cloth
'00 Excursion Limited two tone (white on tan)...tan leather...wifes ride
'08 Taurus Limited ice blue...tan leather...daughter ride
'08 Edge Limited white sand tri-coat metallic...tan leather...other daughters ride
On an 8.8 Ford diff?
See:
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for.../#post-5876241
https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/...wap/index7.php
My memory may be foggy, but on my 7.5 diff the pinion bolt torque set the preload on the pinion bearing and therefore had a specific torque value. Maybe the 8.8 is different, but that's what I remember. I had to put locktite on the threads and RTV on the washer because otherwise the diff fluid leaked through the threads.
1985 Mustang GT Convertible
Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.
If its together, I'd just leave it be as others have stated. When these bolts break, it will usually be at the transition from the threads to the pin. Even if it's broken, it still serves its purpose of retaining the shaft. It only becomes an issue when you need to remove it and the pin is still in there after the bolt head is removed. That's when the fun begins to try to get it out.
Aahhh, the pinion shaft lock bolt. I assumed since the OP stated "pinion shaft bolt", they possibly meant the pinion nut. I have taken those off to replace the seal, just counting how many turns it took to come off, then put it back on and rotated an additional 1/4 turn.
HAD
'82 GT monochromatic (red)...black cloth
HAVE
'85 GT vert two tone (white on charcoal)...white leather
'00 F350 two tone (white on silver)...gray cloth
'00 Excursion Limited two tone (white on tan)...tan leather...wifes ride
'08 Taurus Limited ice blue...tan leather...daughter ride
'08 Edge Limited white sand tri-coat metallic...tan leather...other daughters ride
Thanks again for all of the help.
Tom
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