83 Conv. Crushed fuel supply

[JD302]

The 5/16 OD metal fuel supply line is crushed flat under the front drivers side convertible frame stiffener. Since this I believe is the supply line to a mechanical fuel pump on an original 83 carb’ed 5.0 engine I was thinking just go with a standard rubber hose repair. The car runs fine crushed as it is. My concern in leaving it is if enough rust and fuel tank gunk gets backed up behind it will it start causing a problem. Also will opening up the flow cause any changes to my already adjusted carburetor, thanks for your opinion

[JD302]

[JD302]

Sorry they’re upside down, they were right side up on my computer. That is the drivers side. Looks like at some point in time it fell off the jack?

[bwguardian]

I would repair it with a metal line and compression fittings.

[Jerry peachuer]

Fixing it won't change carb because your fuel bowl needle and seat will already be adjusted
Its before the pump so it won't be pressure increase either when your just cruising around its only using 2 barrels so you may never notice the supply issue unless you run the RPM up for semi distance of travel before it noses over hard like someone shuts ignition off or lean misfire or popping

Why is it running fine ? Because you have fuel in your bowl that is on demand when you need it and
Being its non efi (low pressure) you have options of fixes but per above is good option

My opinion

[JD302]

Well I was considering metal lines that would put 2 large brass connectors hanging below perhaps bouncing around. I guess i could zip tie them to something. Seems to be a difficult job if I had to swedge the ends but compression fittings might work pretty good. The auto parts store near me didn't have enough of the correct size fittings then started talking double flaring the 2 ends on the car and using brake lines each connection seemed about 3" long, then questioned if I really had 5/16 OD line. That's what got me questioning myself anyway. I measured with a digital caliper it measured .32 which is 5/16 OD. It's not off the car so I can't test fit it, does anyone know for sure what size the gas line is?

[JD302]

Yes Jerry I agree, I don't drive it hard and figure any increase in pressure would be controlled by the carb float. It would only be a lean condition which would have surfaced by now if I drove it hard. i'm just getting it up and running not wanting to push it too hard until I know most systems are ok. Plans are repair fuel line, install sub frame connectors, already swapped out to an 8.8, rebuilt front end, installed recored heater core, radiator, ect ect, ha ha, you know how it is, thanks

[gr79]

I spliced a section of rubber fuel line hose in almost the same spot for another forgotten reason.
Repair splice is more forward inside the plate/floor sandwich area area.
Pretty sure it was a pinhole leak.
One foot loop of hose laying in there with two clamps. No tube flares due to limited access.
Think i used the long hose section in case draining the tank was needed.
Leak free 10+ years. Engine is carburated.

[JD302]

gr yes that was my plan until i got to the auto parts store and got side tracked. That's what i would have done back in 1983 if it happened, didn't know if i had missed something in the 30 years or so when he started talking about plastic, high pressure, all that stuff. I'm like "no dude it's carburated", it's low pressure suction line, they used to be on all the cars I drove. A metal line would be ok too but it's in quite a tough spot for that. So rubber hose it is thanks to all for the input

[bwguardian]

I'm talking about the slip on ferule compression fittings, not the flared fittings. Once done, it will be rigid and can still be taken apart if need be. If you're in a town that has a hydraulic shop, they may be able to help you easier, but I always manage to also get them from places like Home Depot.

[JD302]

Yes the type with a "wedding ring". Slide the nut on the tubing, then the ferrule, put in the brass body, tighten, then do the other end. Usually found on the old metal plumbing supply lines under a sink. I'd have to do 2 of those as I'm not sure I could cut it with only losing 1/4 inch or so then pull it together. More than likely I would have to cut 12" out put a ferrule on each end so 2 connections. My problem with that is mainly I wont know the size until I cut it. At that point I buy parts and start assembly. Maybe to find an odd size needed for metal fuel supply line, too late now. I just had the wrong guy at OReilly's, he had 6-10 brass adaptors in his hand and a 1/4 brake line for me to cut up!
I went by Napa last night to check with them but they were already closed. I'll check again before I install the rubber hose. thanks
I'll cut the metal line section out take it to Napa with me see what they have. If they have it I'll go compression fitting, if not I'll go rubber hose. I know they have that. I'll keep you posted, thanks

[KevinK]

There are at least 2 types of compression fittings. The one pictured is a brand name Swaglok. There is another type without the back ferrule. These are good for some 200 psi or more. Brake lines are good for 1000 psi or more. Just some rough numbers. They also come in stainless steel.

[Jerry peachuer]

If you look at the back of your car the gas tank has rubber lines that connect to steel line from the factory
Maybe this will show you something to compare it too

[Jerry peachuer]

It will go to rubber again near the k member then back to steel i do believe also

Maybe you can go up another foot or so and replace it with a 3ft section instead of looking at 12 inches and you woukd only need to terminate 1 end with fitting recommended above

Just another idea or useless info

[gt4494]

Little trick. when you go from metal line to rubber with a hose clamp, put a slight single flare on the metal line first.

This will help ensure the rubber line will not just slip off if it accidentally gets hit by road debris..

[gr79]

2x on the fuel tank connections. Forgot about them.
Read if using rubber fuel hose, limit length to 12".

Prob is- limited access to the damaged line section.
Could drill out the 1/4" rivets and remove the stiffening plate.
Flatten the plate back out too while its off.
Cut line and repair, then reinstall plate with new rivets.
However, 1/4" rivets are tough to set without the right tools.
A auto repair or body shop can do this quickly chances are they have the tool.
Got mine from HF. Pneumatic. Took a couple minutes to reinstall mine.
Actually used lag bolts to fasten plates until they could be riveted.

Was looking for quick connects, like house plumbing Sharkbites.
Found Dorman ones but are for nylon lines.
Found Dorman fuel line repair kits found at the chain auto stores.
Found Dorman 800-204
Is a low pressure line rubber hose will not pop off or leak with correct id and spring clamps on straight run non-flared tubing.
Barbed fittings and coupler would prob work too like for air lines.

[JD302]

Have not completed fuel line repair yet. I am waiting on the used front X brace to arrive by mail. I will install it, drive to a body shop have them check alignment. DS rear wheelwell is 1/2 inch higher than PS, could be from when I reused old springs swapping to an 8.8 Once checked at body shop I will dicuss plan and check price on welding in MM SFC. Order them from MM. Once in hand I will remove both front plates repair the fuel line then bring back to body shop for installation of SFC and reinstall of both front attaching plates and reinstall front X braces. I haven't measured back underside of car yet. I did measure the front underside of where the front 1/2 of the X attaches which appears to be about a 1/2 inch closer at a 45* angle on the PS than the DS where it attaches under the radiator. I don't think it's anything major maybe just from a tall curb marker hit. My front eyes kind of droop near the hood latch. I think the front convertible X mounts need to be cut and welded back in when installing SFC.
So lots going on just to get to a fuel line.
Also tried to get tires today these are 10 years old. Whole new world out there. We don't stock 'em, order on line, have shipped, we'll call you, set appoitment, have installed, maybe a week? Longing for the good old days but not as far back as the bias ply.
Thanks for the ideas and opinions I will be checking back as I progress, Jim D

[JD302]

I do like the looks of the Dorman 800-204 for the fuel line and I'll be checking anyplace i may be able to disconnet if close by, thanks

[gt4494]

Most tire store will get you what you want within 24hrs.
I would be careful and get tires with current engineering. I have a model A and with the 19inch bias ply tires, technology is a good thing