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  1. #26

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    Thanks GR and Jack. I'm trying to catch up with you and am learning. Looks like my metering valve is blocking my LF output only which is strange as I would have thought the valve only shuts off front or rear not just one port. I agree it sounds like that LF is blocked with crud. Need to figure out how to clear that outlet or push back the metering valve so fluid will flow LF again. Will try the switch removal and see if I can get the shuttle to move. If it's free then I have to try it from the output in with a small screwdriver or pick and see if I can get any movement. On a side note my son picked up the drum brake tools for me today so I can deal with the drum adjustment when I get to it.
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 11-22-2020 at 11:35 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  2. #27

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    Duplicate
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 11-22-2020 at 11:35 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  3. #28

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    Combination valve removed and in cleaning process. There is no spring in this one and the o-rings look great. There was some crud embedded on the valve at the LT side that I scraped and cleaned off.



    As the valve looked when removed. You can see the corrosion that was preventing the collar to the left of it from sliding. That end is having a bath in some Evaporust as I can't figure out how fluid flows to the LT port. There are two little dimple holes on this collar that I've cleaned out with a toothbrush and toothpick but they don't appear to route to the LT port side and seem to end on the brass rod itself. It's unclear to me how fluid flows to that port as it's still blocked when I blow through it.



    I'm sure I'm the only one that has dealt with this but if I can't figure it out now I have the correct part number to fund a replacement (that doesn't get bad reviews due to leaking!).
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  4. #29

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    Ok after soaking I got the end piece detached from the slide pin and all cleaned out thoroughly (it was ugly inside and needed a gentle reaming). Reassembled and back in the car and all 4 corners bled successfully! Now going to shift back to the LR shoe adjuster assembly and can't see if we can get that sorted at the ebrake handle end. Thanks to all for your input and help!

    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  5. #30

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    dup!
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 11-29-2020 at 12:09 AM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  6. #31

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    Still can’t get that LR shoe adjuster to sit right after taking it apart again and checking the brake arm and spring. The ebrake handle only had one adjustment cable and it is nice and tight. Followed the cable to where it splits but could not access it well and will try again later. Re-bled 2x and then test drive was a success! Brake pedal is now firm and brakes nice and straight!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  7. #32
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Royal oak Mi
    Posts
    1,447

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    Quote Originally Posted by m81mclaren View Post
    Thanks guys sorry the pics here are of my left rear only. I know this is lame that I can't seem to get a brake job done without at least one issue!

    The adjuster wheel for this driver side sits towards the rear side of the drum and is marked L as is the arm that the red spring attaches to. That arm should ride against the adjuster wheel but is not quite engaging the teeth properly and is angled down slightly. On my right side that arm sits parallel to the ground and engages the adjuster teeth correctly (not pictured). More pics are on my main thread here with both sides if it helps!


    My Left driver's side

    How it's supposed to be per LMR install video...


    Basically looking for advice if there is any way to help move my arm so it engages properly with the adjuster wheel as LMR demonstrates. I can't figure out a way to do so on this side.
    Check out the Red spring in the still video ANGLE compared to your angle
    Maybe something goofy with your red spring and its rotation and or slot choice

  8. #33
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
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    May 2014
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    Royal oak Mi
    Posts
    1,447

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    Check out your tang length of the red spring in the front slot Vs the one in video

  9. #34
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

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    Quote Originally Posted by m81mclaren View Post
    Still can’t get that LR shoe adjuster to sit right after taking it apart again and checking the brake arm and spring. The ebrake handle only had one adjustment cable and it is nice and tight. Followed the cable to where it splits but could not access it well and will try again later. Re-bled 2x and then test drive was a success! Brake pedal is now firm and brakes nice and straight!
    The adjustment nut for the E brake on the 79-86 cars is inside the car on the E brake handle. You will need to remove the trim piece under the handle. Pull the handle as high up as it can go. You should see a threaded rod and a nut at the bottom of the handle near the ratchet mechanism. I don't recall the nut size, I want to say 9/16", but might be wrong. Use a long socket and extension on a ratchet. Loosen the nut, but don't remove completely otherwise the threaded rod will fall out of the mechanism and that's a pain to reinstall without a helper. Loosen as much as needed, work on your rear brake until repaired, then tighten back up to your personal preference as long as it activates the rear E brake you are good. Hope that helps.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  10. #35

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    Thanks guys, I did note that same red spring angle and thought maybe they were side specific. I compared my original spring and it against the aftermarket and Motorcraft red springs and they are all identical in size and winding direction. I swapped them too for good measure and get same result. Will check again with a fresh set of eyes but I think it must in the e-brake cable adjustment.

    Trey I took the brake handle cover off the console and see that adjuster nut. I'll try a few adjustments and see if it makes a difference but since it's a single cable for both sides and my RT side rear adjuster is good I think the adjustment must be where the ebrake cable splits? I am also noticing the cable pivot guide where it connects at the secondary shoe looks just out of the hole and would explain why the shoe adjuster is out. I can't get that pivot to go back in it's hole properly no matter what I do so I think backing off the ebrake adjustment at the split (or maybe all the way at the handle) will make the difference. Seems logical to me anyway!
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 12-01-2020 at 06:01 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

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