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  1. #1

    Default 83 Vert missing front X bracing

    Starting to drive my 83 now that I finished installing the heater core. Victory! Thanks to all here and the huge history to search. Since it is a convertible and I don't have the front X brace I have been driving cautiously. I plan on getting; MM full length subframe connectors, strut tower brace, 4 point K member brace. So the question is, Once I do all the above, do i still need to find and install an X brace on the front? Currently I can feel the looseness of the body as i drive it, I can also feel the seat move when i pop the door open. At 53K miles everything lines up good, the doors close well, no rust etc. I'm just not sure if I would need or if the X brace is removed anyway when those upgrades are made, thanks

  2. #2

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    I may have found the X brace and I hope the mounting plates from a member. Not sure if these would have to be removed if I install a 4 point K member brace, has anyone done this and knows for sure before i buy it just to have to remove anyway, thanks

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default hardware needed for x brace install

    Good idea and time to do all that work while that unibody has good metal to attach to and preserve intact overall shape.
    Plenty of driving life ahead to enjoy the mods.

    Pic of ft and rear x-brace set. Larger Two hole brace is the rear (K to rocker gussets), one hole end is front (K to rad support).
    Brackets for bolting rod brace to the radiator support not pictured. Easily made.
    Factory convertible and kit rocker and torque box plates are special stampings not easily reproduced


    MM (4 point K brace) desc says "Will clear factory conv. x braces."

    X-brace install hardware, per Ford M-5024 kit instruction sheet, to fasten x braces:
    6x -U-nut, 5/16-18 (for stab rod ends) Ford p/n 45264-S2
    6x -Flange head bolt, 5/16-18 x .875" (for stab rod ends) Ford p/n 56521-S2
    2x -U-nut, 3/8-16 (for bolting braces to center of K-member) Ford p/n 45265-S2
    2x -Flange head bolt, 3/8-16 x 1.25 (for bolting braces to center of K-member) Ford p/n 56541-S2

    Above fasteners are common auto parts store items. The fasteners in the kit were black phos coated.

    At k frame mounting, sheet shows front V brace is stacked on top of V rear brace. Install bolts. Presto. The X brace.

    Radiator support brackets not shown in the above pic:
    E3ZX-5C027-AB FT frame stab. rod reinf. LH (rad. support connection bracket for front brace)
    E3ZX-5C026-AB FT frame stab. rod reinf. RH (rad. support connection bracket for front brace)
    The instruction sheet shows an exploded assembly drawing of the brace and bracket connection.

    "Install all bolts snug during assembly. When assy is complete, tighten all bolts to spec."
    5/16-18 torque 12-18 ft-lbs
    3/8-16 torque 20-30 ft-lbs
    Last edited by gr79; 12-10-2020 at 10:44 PM.

  4. #4

    Default

    gr79, yes thanks yesterday I was all the way back to July 25 2013 looking at an old post of yours, 4 pages of instructions and 2 photos. I saved them for when i find some and I might just have a set. Oh and it passed inspection today I'm on a good roll. And I like that "will clear factory braces". Awesome thanks

  5. #5

    Default

    I have the rear part of the x brace and the 4 plates for the tk box and rockers pm me

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default

    Wish i could have gotten a pair of rocker reinforcement Z bars off a salvage fox Mustang convertible.
    They were fastened along the rocker pinch weld area with lots of 1/4" rivets.
    Did not own a cordless drill up to all that drilling.
    Now that those tools are everywhere, Z braced convertibles are not.

  7. #7

    Default

    Sorry guys didn't notice these replies. I now have the front X braces, not yet installed, they need some adjustments and clean up. I have been driving it though and found out after I got tires that it needed wheel bearings. I'm in the process of wheel bearings and of course "while you're in there" the disc brake pins needed lube and 37 year old rubber brake hoses needs replacing. So that's where I am, DS wheel bearings were shot, replaced both D and P sides with National Bearings and seals also lubed the 4 pins with Sil-Glyde, that stuff is great. Soaking the rubber brake line to metal brake line connection with PB Blaster hoping to not have to replace metal lines back to the master cylinder just to put new rubber hoses in. Putting the wheels back on to test drive the bearings while i soak the brake lines, got my fingers crossed!

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member qtrracer's Avatar
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    Default

    Initially, I used the KB pieces on my 86 GT vert I installed the lower 4-point K brace and kept the stock x-braces. I also put in the STB and SFCs. The STB seemed the most noticeable since it substantially reduced cowl shake and helped keep the doors aligned. Vert doors are heavy and sag over time. The SFCs helped reduce body twist and the K brace helped keep the alignment correct despite the tendency to twist and bend at the firewall becase of the absence of a top for reinforcement.

    Since those days, I replaced all the KB pieces with MM pieces which by the way, are far more robust than the KBs - especially the SFCs. MMs were about 10 pounds heavier for the pair.

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default

    Had the pass ft brake line fail on its own at the wheel well gap above rail. Rust.
    Does not take much twist to snap old rusty lines either.
    Rest of brake lines in engine bay were and are fine.
    Spliced in a new section at the firewall rather than going all the way to the m/c.
    Cut out the bad tubing, slid new fitting on the good existing line then flared. Magnifying glass to check for flaring burrs.
    Brass male/male coupler completed connection.
    Old hose removal and replacement was a non-event. The hose retaining clip is always fun.
    Bent new section of AGS brake line from caliper hose to hood hinge area. Lots of bends and measuring to make it look factory.
    First time i ever double flared a brake line. Working perfectly.

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