86 GT HatchT5 swap, can't find the plugs for the clutch switches?

[vrm71]

Hello all,
got my T5 swap done now having hanging idle issues, I do not have the Netral sensing switch hooked up and can't fing the 2 plugs to plug into the clutch pedal switch any ideas where to look for the connectors, I have checked under the dash, behind the kick panel behind the stereo can't find these wires and I have read that the not having the neutral sensing switch connected can cause idle issues. I'd like to have everything hooked up correctly.

Any help is appreciated
Thanks!

[xctasy]

So always FIVE fingered Death punch. 5 questions on Speed Density cars.


1. Is it now MAF.
2. Is the Computer an Auto one, and
3. what one of four O2 harness are you using.
4. Have you got the 6 inch NGS clutch cable trans plug in it.

5. Get this wrong, and you aren't able to read codes and the car will wont start, or the combination wrong, and it might start in gear.


The switch on the manual trans is called a Neutral Gear Switch (NGS)
The switch on the AOD trans the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS)

Ford were in control of the production process, so when you play FoMoCo games, you gotta know that an inability to lockout engine start will also trigger an inability to read KOEO codes.

The swap between AOD and T5 requires NO O2 sensor cable changes if its a stock 86-early 88, non MAF air.

If your computer is the A9P then that's the AOD one which will work with the 5 speed transmission and 5 speed O2 harness.

Type 1: jumper less O2 1986-88 (5-speed & AOD same)
Type 2: Pin 1 - 5 Purple/Yellow jumper Late 1988-90
Type 3: Pin 1 - 6 Green/Yellow jumper 1991-93
Type 4: Pin 5 - 6 Green/Yellow jumper late 88-93 AOD


The car needs an NSS harness, which routes from the drivers A pillar post kick panel to the trans tunnel, and under the drivers seat. The 5-Speed one is needed.

It's a tandem deal, in parallel with the clutch pedal switch. Idea is you keep the clutch pedal pressed in all the way when you dump codes, or else you jumper the plug with a 5A fuse blade.

"https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/neutral-safety-switch-nss.899700/"

Pull the drivers seat out, pull the kick panel and door silk off. Lift up the carpet.

Go under car and unplug the VSS and neutral harness, pull it through the trans tunnel and out from under drivers seat and follow it to the kick panel area and unplug. To install is the reverse.

I did this exact same task on my car a few weeks ago. Took me 20 mins


Hardest part is finding a 5spd harness. eBay is saturated with AOD harness but the 5-Spd ones get snatched up quick

Do that, then check the idle the easy way


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPhgAf2o0UA

"STOP BLAMING YOUR IAC VALVE! There could be other factors at play here (FOXBODY) by BREW2L"
and base idle reset

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PrUuPLuHdI


If that doesn't work, then you need to look for

a 6th item, the non standard diode replacement IAC

You got it....

stock IAC=leave harness diode ALONE

newer model IAC AND 86 (possibly early 87)=eliminate harness diode

Again this only applies to my car which is the 86 GT harness V8 after I had exhausted all the high/surging idle checklist possibilities.

or this IAC trim adjuster plate

https://lmr.com/products/how-to-inst...adjuster-86-93

[vrm71]

ok, sorry i left out alot of info

1. yes car is Mass Air now
2. computer is A9L
3. I have type 2 purple jumper 02 harness
4.i have the NGS plug in the trans but it is disconnected as it was interfering with my dash lights when connected.
5. Car starts fine, just having the rolling idle (it will almost stall then rev up to 1200rpm back and forth) , stuck high idle (as i drive the idle will creep higher sometimes over 2000 rpm and if i stab the gas to get it to drop then it will stall out.

[xctasy]

Nah, your fine. I didn't worry about the GT40 which have huge exhaust valves, shorty headers and Explorer intake., or still running 19 pound injectors either.


My guess is that your on the cusp of needing more injector, but a MAF Mustang self adjusts, You can knock the fuel pressure down.

Re-read Paul's post.

There's your problem lady.

FP should be 39psi KOEO but should be about 31-32 psi ER at idle and increase with increasing throttle opening.
http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page41.html

If you have 39 psi at idle you are going to run extremely rich even in closed loop.



Paul

[xctasy]

Oh make sure the connector where the vacuum line connects to is the correct location, I found mine was on the wrong location and it affected the vacuum to the TAB/TAD mine goes to the same 'Tee" fitting the fuel pressure regulator connects to

43. Vacuum Distribution Tee - From left to right the connections are: vacuum source (intake manifold), unused, vacuum reservoir, speed control servo (if equipped with cruise), power brake booster



This is it


http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ts-Compilation


Guy's here supply 3D vacuum fittings like the 86 onwards Vacuum tree.

86capri50,


this is n20capri's site posts using the same system,


https://www.shapeways.com/shops/MikesStuff

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...nter-Car-Parts






86-93 Mustang 5.0 Vacuum Tree in Black Strong & Flexible

86-93 Fox body Mustang 5.0's have a vacuum tree on the firewall. The ends of the vacuum tree are in fact "caps". The unit is NOT solid. These can sometimes blow out





- Quick and easy fix for either side. I do have the entire tree available if you'd rather go that route - it is more expensive than the re-popped one's but I do have it.

86-93 Ford Mustang 5.0 Vacuum Tree Plug

This is the firewall vacuum tree for 86-93 Mustangs (and 86 Mercury Capri 5.0 - and possibly other Ford and Mercury vehicles). This is no longer available new. Part # E6DC-9C491-AA. Direct replacement part. I also have the end caps if you happened to have blown them out!