Close



Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1

    Default What does everyone use to reattach the side moldings?

    Time to put the moldings on the repainted Capri! What adhesive is everyone using? I thought that the 3M acrylic urethane tape looked best (the black stuff that comes with body kits). I bought a roll in 1/2 inch to attach the Xenon air dam and have lots left over. They also sell it in 3/4 inch. I see that some people use the white 3M foam tape also so i am torn.

    Opinions? (obligatory butt shot)

    KennyName:  IMG_20201016_072035.jpg
Views: 217
Size:  152.4 KB

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    4,405

    Default

    Redid moldings this year. New pinstripe and tape.
    3M 03615 Super Strength Molding tape 7/8 x 5'. Paid 5.50 per roll. Dark gray foam, red liner.
    Removed old tape fast from moldings with knotted wire cup wheel on 4" corded angle grinder.
    Light touch to keep silver foil intact as possible, work from middle to edge to prevent snagging molding edge,
    Clean all tape from bodyside metal. I lightly scuff as the paint is not show. Clean w/solvent or IPA (C3H8O)
    One strip layer at top and bottom edge, no edge gap to attract debris and hold water. Trim with xacto.
    Special attention to molding ends as they have a tendency to curl after a few years. Clean 2x, double up tape width.
    Am going to experiment with vertical strips at the ends to aid later curl repair without peeling off more molding.
    Option- lay on ground and 'walk' on moldings to improve bond.

  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    13,406

    Default

    I use the 3M VHB tape exclusively. The actual part number varies by wide and overall length of the roll. Just make sure you pick it up at an autobody supply store and not Home Depot/Lowe's/Walmart etc. stock is turned over more often at the supply store and true Automotive line rather than general purpose.

    I also recommend the 3m Adhesion Promoter 111 to both the backside of the moldings and the car body surface before installation. You can often pick up the small wipes in individual packets from your local Oreilly's. I generally can do the average Mustang/Capri with 6-8 wipes, although grabbing a couple extra isn't a bad idea. Good Luck!

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  4. #4
    FEP Supporter webestang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    St. Louis, MO.
    Posts
    4,925

    Default

    3m here as well. Great stuff.

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Rebuild Coming Soon.
    1996 Crown Vic LX 4.6 Silver "Gort" Daily Driver

    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  5. #5

    Default

    OK Trey and Webstang... but what width? 1/2", .7, 1". I know from the factory they closed off the ends with the tape. Also, leave a weep grove at the bottom center possibly?

  6. #6

    Default

    This is great information
    thanks for sharing it
    79 Zephyr, 4v/4r70w swap planned, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs.

  7. #7

    Default

    A good source for the tape is www.mcmaster.com. Best hardware store on the web. And when you go to adhere the tape, the surface needs to be surgically clean. Give it a wipe with solvent, let dry, then wipe with alcohol to remove any oils. You only get one chance so be careful!
    W

    As always, "It ain't what you don't know that gets you, it's what you think you know that just ain't so."

  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    13,406

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mudgepondexpress View Post
    OK Trey and Webstang... but what width? 1/2", .7, 1". I know from the factory they closed off the ends with the tape. Also, leave a weep grove at the bottom center possibly?
    I think most of the time I use the 3/4" due to availability and price. Kind of like 3M tape, as you go up in width the price goes up exponentially. So often cheaper to buy a long roll of 3/4" and add an extra strip than to buy the 1" or wider.

    I generally cover the majority of the metal strip area on the original moldings when possible. I don't seal up the ends of the moldings as that was actually a part of the molding in most cases and not part of the double sided tape. You can if you prefer, but I don't really worry about it.

    You could leave a weep grove at the bottom if you choose also, but I generally don't and haven't experienced any ill effects over the years. Dirt and grime can get in the edges, but not much in most situations, so generally not a huge concern. If you drive on dirt roads A LOT or DD your Fox then it might be more of an issue to consider. Hope that helps!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  9. #9
    FEP Supporter webestang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    St. Louis, MO.
    Posts
    4,925

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mudgepondexpress View Post
    OK Trey and Webstang... but what width? 1/2", .7, 1". I know from the factory they closed off the ends with the tape. Also, leave a weep grove at the bottom center possibly?
    I bought mine at AZ.....1/2".... https://www.autozone.com/sealants-gl...00000043780892

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Rebuild Coming Soon.
    1996 Crown Vic LX 4.6 Silver "Gort" Daily Driver

    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  10. #10

    Default

    In the end I used the 1/2 inch at the top and bottom and a 1/4 inch each side of the groove. Worked great. I also used smaller pieces in the ends of the grooves and ever 12". Name:  IMG_20201031_085502.jpg
Views: 73
Size:  388.4 KB

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member fascat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Greensburg, PA
    Posts
    848

    Default

    Great job on the moldings and your car looks great. I need to put a set on my car.

  12. #12

    Default

    I had a friend help. We taped up a really straight 1*4 just long enough to go from wheel lip to wheel lip. I set the back one as straight as I could then he held the board to the bottom of the back and I used it, and eyeball, to do the front. Then he just held the taped board to the bottom of the two moldings. I started peeling the tape liner about 6 inches and had it come out top and bottom. Then I set the molding on the board, set the rear and pulled tape/pressed toward the front. It was the straightest set I have ever installed!

    Maybe TMI but who knows who will read this in the future! Thanks for the compliment (it is my daughter's car, 83 V6, has 60,000 miles on it).

    Kenny

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    4,405

    Default

    Looks perfect
    When i worked at Chrysler on the final line, one guy's job was to install those thin optional side rub moldings.
    Gravy job. Like did one car an hour if that. Can't remember if he did both sides.
    He used a custom 5' magnetic straight edge guide tool. Line it up, pick, peel, install molding, remove tool, sit back down.
    60 sec job at line rate of 60 cars an hour.
    Plan to do a door one Fri. Good idea using a guide tool Forgot about doing that. Solo. Will use clamps i think.

    I agree about posts being read in future. How much detail to include.
    Hard for me not to keep repeating what was written before.
    Workin' on that, lacking discipline to keep conversations short without stories.
    Last edited by gr79; 11-04-2020 at 07:22 PM.

  14. #14
    FEP Senior Member fascat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Greensburg, PA
    Posts
    848

    Default

    Thanks for the details on how you installed your moldings. I agree, the more details the better. Will help someone else in the future doing the same project. Like me!

  15. #15
    FEP Supporter webestang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    St. Louis, MO.
    Posts
    4,925

    Default

    Super nice job......sweet Capri.

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Rebuild Coming Soon.
    1996 Crown Vic LX 4.6 Silver "Gort" Daily Driver

    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  16. #16
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    4,405

    Default another molding install done

    Finally reinstalled the door one today before cold weather resets in.
    Cleaned off all old mounting tape prior.
    Also restriped this molding when it was off car and in a striping mood with 3M red reflective.
    A safety addition for a black car at night. Tape glows bright red when illuminated.
    Black 1/4" pinstripe can be applied centered over the red to quickly transform single to the early version oem dual pinstripe look.
    Optional black reflective tape glows white and will work if red/white side safety colors are needed.
    Worked with molding inside up supported on flat surface from middle out with rotation cw over the molding edge.
    70% rubbing alcohol works fine for all surface prep.

    Retaped molding:
    First taped the molding ends vertically, short strips two wide side by side per plan.
    One long run top and bottom along molding edges. 3M 3615 x2 (7/8" x 5' 12.00). About 12" tape leftover.
    Liner on, rolled all tape down with a Formica j-roller.

    Molding install:
    Started the liner peel away from any edges with x-acto
    Foam tape has a tendency to want to lift when starting liner peel. Push back down with x-acto blade.
    Peeled off liners and carried retaped molding from flat work area to car work area.
    Indexed inside molding center bump up and down with bottom of door skin molding channel like the other ones are.
    Lined up molding on door, pressed lightly in 4 places to check straightness. Was still adjustable at this point.
    Four even spaced tack points, pushing lightly on the top tape, is enough to start, readjust, and hold realignments.
    Tape is very tacky and needs very little contact to hold molding temp in place and still allow peeling up for readjustment.

    Final push.
    After several visual alignment checks from a distance, did a final press down with the j-roller, middle to ends.
    Final step, laid on a ground pad to push and 'walk' on the entire molding for max pressure contact.

    Actual retape and install time= approx 3/4 hour. Actual time to get in the right mind set= many months.
    Door skin needed repair first.
    The last two short moldings behind door on rear 1/4 to be done in 2021.
    First comes sheet metal lower corner replacement sections from NPD.

    Name:  molding ds door install (3 3030).JPG
Views: 18
Size:  45.6 KB
    Last edited by gr79; 11-08-2020 at 02:16 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •