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  1. #26
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Finding the ground should be simple - an ohm meter set to buzz which would confirm continuity (ground).

    Then key to start position while checking the other 3 wires.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Last edited by richpet; 10-10-2020 at 07:28 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  2. #27
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    So, pulled the plug in, found the two wires (r/lb) that should be connected, still no power to selenoid. Thinking push button start, mounted at least out of sight under dash.
    Even tried with the ground wire.
    No dice.
    I will try some other combos tomorrow before buying a push button switch.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  3. #28

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    This is just my opinion but I’m not a fan of push button start.

    Do you have test light? It’s easier than using a volt meter.
    I would test for power both coming into the ignition switch, and also power leaving the ignition switch in start position.
    Not 100% but pretty sure the starter trigger wire, and the coil are the only circuits that have power in start position. From looking at diagrams, it looks like the yellow wire from the always hot side of the starter solenoid, splits in 2 and goes into the Ignition switch in 2 places. (To power those 2 circuits)
    With a test light, you can check both of those yellow wires coming into the ignition switch for power coming in. Then at least you know that the ignition switch is receiving power. looks like trigger wire coming out of ignition switch is red and light blue, coil wire is brown and pink (That eventually turns into red and light green) from the diagrams I am looking at.
    If the engine starts and runs by jumping the solenoid, then the coil wire coming from the ignition switch is not likely the culprit since if the coil circuit was not receiving power the plugs would not fire.

    Diagnosing wiring problems is just basically a process of elimination. Start at the beginning, and work your way down the line. If you have power going into a switch, but still not working, test power coming out of switch. If no power coming out of switch, use a jumper wire to jump out the switch., to eliminate it from the equation (process of elimination). If jumping the switch solves the problem, then the switch is the culprit. If not, then the problem is further on down the line. If you have no power going to a switch, than the problem lies between 12v (the beginning) and the switch.

    Test the red and light blue wire coming out of the ignition switch, if it has power in start position, then your ignition switch is not the culprit and your problem lies between the ignition switch and the trigger wire at the starter solenoid.

    As long as you use the same gauge wire or bigger, I would think that as long as you are receiving power from the ignition switch in the start position to the starter trigger wire, you could just splice your own trigger wire from the red and light blue wire from the ignition switch to the trigger wire on the starter solenoid and send power there. Even something temporary just to test it (again process of elimination).

    If that works, then you know the problem is between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid (kinda obvious) so there’s no shame in running a new trigger wire. Then you can run the trigger wire however you want. Clutch switch, neutral safety, nothing at all, etc.

    just my two cents
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  4. #29

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    I apologize for my long winded post above.
    I was having a hard time explaining what I was trying to say.
    Sorry about that

    Any luck yet OP?
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  5. #30
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    No worries. I decided to go with the bypass situation and install a push button start.
    Worked great!
    Removed the carb and have started installing the FiTech system.

    I am sure I will trace the wires later and try to find the issue.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  6. #31

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    Awesome, glad you were able to work it out
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  7. #32
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    I know the way I did it wouldn't be everyone's first choice, but it is functional and does not preclude future addressing of the starting circuit issue.
    Appreciate the input!

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  8. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by richpet View Post
    I know the way I did it wouldn't be everyone's first choice, but it is functional and does not preclude future addressing of the starting circuit issue.
    Appreciate the input!

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Totally understand!
    Everyone builds their cars to their liking, that’s what makes it interesting, fun and exciting.
    You can always go back and try to figure out the switch later if you decide to do so. Or not, your choice.
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  9. #34

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    It's not always get it right...it's get it running, as Freiburger says. A non-running project is at risk of becoming yard art. if at all possible, get it moving and enjoy it.

  10. #35

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    Totally
    Sometimes “good enough” is good enough lol
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  11. #36
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Exactly! Do what works.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  12. #37

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    I am currently dealing with this exact issue on my Capri (swapped from SROD to t5), tried to crank today and got nothing. It cranked by jumping the solenoid, but the battery is low. So on the charger it goes, and tomorrow I will follow your steps and see what I can find on my car.
    1979 Capri RS 302/4spd- Rough (but free!)
    1982 Fairmont 200/c5- Rough, but running
    1987 Olds Cutlass 403/t56/4.10 Dana 60
    1972 Plymouth Satellite wagon- AACA HPOF, all original, my grandpa bought it new.
    And many more...

  13. #38

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    Thanks for the info guys, that was it. Jumpered 2 of the wires on the 4 pin plug coming out under the trans tunnel and it cranked with the key again.
    1979 Capri RS 302/4spd- Rough (but free!)
    1982 Fairmont 200/c5- Rough, but running
    1987 Olds Cutlass 403/t56/4.10 Dana 60
    1972 Plymouth Satellite wagon- AACA HPOF, all original, my grandpa bought it new.
    And many more...

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