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  1. #1

    Default code 44

    Hello all:

    I still have code 44 on the 86GT. Its factory and runs well but I want this code gone.

    I investigated the entire Thermactor system and think part of the problem was the vacuum routing. If I read all the books correctly, the TAB solenoid is the one closest to the engine and the vac line should run to the front most air valve, the bypass valve. The solenoid closest to the fender is therefore the TAD and the vac line should run to the air valve closest to the firewall. Might explain higher engine temps. According to the 86 wiring diagram this is correct. Two wire terminal is TAB, which is the front air valve. Your thoughts please.

    I also recently removed the crossover tube from the rear of the heads and made sure it was clean and properly attached. It is now. I took a speedometer cable and ran it into the drivers side cylinder head to see if the passage was clogged. Its wide open. But still the code 44.

    The O2 sensors are not new but relatively low mileage. I have no codes about them but they are worth a look.

    My guess is the smaller tubes that pass the Thermactor air into the exhaust header are clogged and that is why I get a code. I used the STAR tester to get codes and may not have erased the codes properly. I'll try again in the future. After rerouting the vac lines I went for a short test drive. May need to drive more.

    Car runs well and I suppose only pollutes slightly more with the code.

    Suggestions are most welcome. Thanks everyone.

    Cheers.

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    I'd say a faulty O2 earth. Its integrated in your ECM.

    If you can do so without ruining the wiring, check that the O2 sensor is working right. 86 has a lot of different TAD/TAB structures to the 1987. I'd just focus on the cold light off code for priority air. Yes, the downstream air tube could be blocked.

    Lab technicians with friends who recreational shoot drop the Anti back fire valve, and use a long riffle cleaning brush and check that.

    i'd pop the o2 sensor and check backpressure. 1/8" tube insert in the hole to measure exhaust back pressure. If there is a cat problem, it will show up with a Fuel pressure gauge as high backpressure.


    see https://www.aa1car.com/library/converter.htm

    Exhaust flow (the backpressure must be measured with a 1/8" BSP fuel pressure gauge, and must be less than 4 psi at 4500 rpm)



    If you dont use the o2 bung, you do that by braising in 1/8" fuel pressure fitting in the exhaust by oxy acetylene. But a narrow or wide band HEGO sensor hole does the same job with the same size as a spark plug, and get an adaptor and check it for backpressure the same time.

  3. #3

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    Checking exhaust back pressure is a good idea. Might work on that this weekend.

    The h pipe is new back in the Spring with of course four new cats. I'm positive there are no exhaust blockages. We were very careful around the O2 sensors. But I'll check the connections and the sensors as well.

    Still might try to remove the header and check the ports in the cylinder head. With only 80,000 on the rebuild I don't expect clogging but won't know until I take the thing apart.

    Thanks for the ideas.

    Cheers

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    Just curious, how clogged was the rear pipe? Were you able to see the ports in the back of the heads when had the pipe off?

    When I bought my Saleen, it would not pass smog. I was getting 44 and 94. Everything looks good vacuum and hose wise. Tab/Tad was working as well. I took the rear pipe off and it was totally plugged. All the ports in the heads were plugged as well. Was quite the chore to clean them out but I got it done. Hopefully you figure it out.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  5. #5

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    I had to clean the crossover pipe but the holes in the cylinder heads wasn't blocked. Pipe wasn't really blocked just dirty. Very little carbon was on the port and the speedometer cable went in with no hangups at all. Even flexed and moved around somewhat. But the small holes right at the exhaust port might need cleaned. Can't see them. I'll check the O2 sensor as well but still suspect I'll need to remove the header and clean them.

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    ohhh those loving TAB/TAD...... did you check to see if you are getting voltage to them? and are the solenoid's moving/clicking what I did, I disassembled, cleaned with cleaner and after mine worked. they seem to get some crap in them
    2017 Mustang ECO BOOST (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Mr Cooks two piece OTC clip removal tools, a sharp craft nife to profile any unyielding 35 year old spastic plastic, then the JA Cook Texan Shot Glass treatment, some mineral terps, then some denurtured alcohol to flush it out, rinse and repeat.

    All Fords electric clips and wiring are subject to variations but they arent something you can fit and replace properly with a thin flathead screw driver...you have to master them like a family matriarch. Continuity checks...geesh Joe...I'll bet you've done a boatload of that. Great advice NAVYCAT.

    Later model stuff has an 8 wire DTC link, and active PIDs and you can zero into no signal stuff. With the exception of F trucks and LSC VIIs, and Pre 1993 5.0 are unfriendly to do Thermactor and TAD/TAB tracing. Great thing is you can isolate it if you follow through. Early EECiv's before the 1990 modle year 5.0 Lincolns, you had to bread board the 60 pin link, and real time data log..Sensors into the ECM then showed up as a real time fault. You could do this on a chassis dyno.

    The Thermactor system is probably a first check. The Dealer Trouble Codes just flag you back to the 10 to 12 systems EEC IV oversaw. Garbage in, Garbage Out. If its a simple continuity problem at the TAD/TAB...its Garbage In.

  8. #8

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    Update:

    I may have been looking in the wrong place. I need to examine the passenger side cylinder head smog passage. Might explain things better. Got my signals crossed.

    But also discovered another detail. Here's the 86 factory wiring diagram of the TAB and TAD solenoids.
    Name:  TAB TAD 2020 004.jpg
Views: 140
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    Looks like the TAD has two wires and TAB has three. TAD shows a light green with black wire. TAB has white with red wire.
    Here's what is on my car, 1986 GT. Factory.
    Name:  TAB TAD 2020 003.jpg
Views: 145
Size:  244.3 KB
    If the TAD with two wires needs light green with black, then the set up is reversed on my car. Right?
    Might explain the code 44 and the engine running hot in days passed.

    I have a Monitor to plug in and check but not today. Need more time to do that. I suppose I can just 'reverse' the vacuum hoses and been done with it. I think that was the solution with overheating a few years ago. But still the code 44 so might still need to probe the passages and make sure they are clear.
    Other books show three wires a piece but not the factory literature. 2 for TAD. Nice way to remember it, eh?

    Ideas most welcome. I'll keep at it.
    Thanks all.

  9. #9

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    And I decided to hook up the Monitor and see what I could find. All tests for TAB and TAD were good so the EEC system and electronics are fine. Looks like a definite blockage or carbon build up. Even if the wires are wrong the circuits function correctly. Wonder if the wiring diagram is faulty. My car is early, built December 85 so who knows.

    Cheers

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    I feek for ya. Fords schematics are the only game in town, but I have seen change without notice. Any other 86 SD SEFi owners wanna drop in some picturs of you passanger sude TAD and engine side TAB wiring to help a player out?

    The upstream air anti backfire valve needs a really good holding tool to remove without damaging the line. The downstream line is very brittle after many years. But Id just check the downstream air for blockage by getting a long brush yhat wont shead its bristles. Cold warm up makes a huge amount of gum from hydrocarbons.

    I think youll find out where yhe blockage is, but be gentle and good fortune man.

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    See 86Stripper's re Emission of his 86.



    Quote Originally Posted by 86Stripper View Post
    Air tube and check valve to rear of cylinder heads

    You have this tube but I've included it for completeness for others who may need it.




    Dual Vacuum Switch Assembly

    This assembly has a vacuum switch for the Diverter Valve and the Bypass Valve. Vacuum connections are on the bottom and the electrical connections are on the top. The electrical connections are keyed so you can't put them on wrong. On the top of each switch is a cap. Underneath the cap is a vacuum release valve so that when the switch changes state the vacuum is released if necessary. Part number on my valve in the photos is E65E 9D474 A2A. Mine was in poor shape so I replaced it with an NOS unit I found from a Ford dealer on eBay. The updated part number on that unit is E65Z 9D474 A. I believe you have this but you will need to check to see if it is there and check it for function. I can help with this if needed.


  12. #12

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    Thanks for all the info.
    I checked the diverter valve to see if it was functioning correctly. Sends air upstream during warm up but once warm, no air to downstream. Pulled the valve off to check but its fine. No vacuum opens the downstream outlet. While the engine was running I pulled the vacuum line off the valve and there was slight vacuum in it so might be the solenoid not switching or internally broke. I picked up a spare Ford unit a few years ago just in case and will dive into this more tomorrow. I have an older solenoid set that I replaced many years ago and I think I'll dig it out and check it again but if memory serves it wasn't switching vacuum even though the electronic function was fine. No codes for the TAB TAD back then or now, just 44. This is easier than a blockage to deal with. But still tedious. And I'll check to make sure the vacuum line routing is correct. I replaced most of that hardware previously as it was very brittle and most of it cracked. I do still have the Ford branching vacuum line- looks like a 'Y'. My vacuum pump quit so I'll need to replace it before testing.
    Thanks again all.

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    Oh make sure the connector where the vacuum line connects to is the correct location, I found mine was on the wrong location and it affected the vacuum to the TAB/TAD mine goes to the same 'Tee" fitting the fuel pressure regulator connects to
    2017 Mustang ECO BOOST (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    43. Vacuum Distribution Tee - From left to right the connections are: vacuum source (intake manifold), unused, vacuum reservoir, speed control servo (if equipped with cruise), power brake booster



    This is it


    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ts-Compilation


    Guy's here supply 3D vacuum fittings like the 86 onwards Vacuum tree.

    86capri50,


    this is n20capri's site posts using the same system,


    https://www.shapeways.com/shops/MikesStuff

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...nter-Car-Parts






    86-93 Mustang 5.0 Vacuum Tree in Black Strong & Flexible
    86-93 Fox body Mustang 5.0's have a vacuum tree on the firewall. The ends of the vacuum tree are in fact "caps". The unit is NOT solid. These can sometimes blow out





    - Quick and easy fix for either side. I do have the entire tree available if you'd rather go that route - it is more expensive than the re-popped one's but I do have it.
    86-93 Ford Mustang 5.0 Vacuum Tree Plug



    This is the firewall vacuum tree for 86-93 Mustangs (and 86 Mercury Capri 5.0 - and possibly other Ford and Mercury vehicles). This is no longer available new. Part # E6DC-9C491-AA. Direct replacement part. I also have the end caps if you happened to have blown them out!

  15. #15

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    Since my vacuum pump went on the fritz I couldn't check the TAB TAD valves entirely but suspected that the TAD wasn't switching properly. And since I had a spare TAB/ TAD assembly I replaced it today and that was it. Car runs great but doesn't get as hot since the air is switching to downstream.

    But I did manage to break the turn signal flasher somehow. Its my Polish curse.

    Gotta watch I don't lock myself in the car without keys.

    Thanks everyone. Great advice and help.

    Cheers.

  16. #16
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magnetic82 View Post
    Since my vacuum pump went on the fritz I couldn't check the TAB TAD valves entirely but suspected that the TAD wasn't switching properly. And since I had a spare TAB/ TAD assembly I replaced it today and that was it. Car runs great but doesn't get as hot since the air is switching to downstream.

    But I did manage to break the turn signal flasher somehow. Its my Polish curse.

    Gotta watch I don't lock myself in the car without keys.

    Thanks everyone. Great advice and help.

    Cheers.
    No such thing as a Polish curse. My best friend Raff is Polish. There's only Polish Success. Now, get in the way of a football and a Pole, and you'll know which way the so-called curse operates.

  17. #17

    Default

    I agree.

    Sometimes I do have to laugh at myself. Helps with these cars, too.

    Slicznie!

    Cheers, all.

  18. #18

    Default

    Alright- more code 44.

    I picked up another hand vacuum pump and checked my TAB and TAD solenoids, both the new unit on the car now and the one I removed. They both work fine and when I used a 9 volt battery to check operation both are good. So the old one went back on the car today. I drove the car last weekend and still code 44. Today I looked at the vacuum line routing and somehow convinced myself it was wrong. So I switched the lines where they connect to the TAB/ TAD with the rubber grommet connectors that are 'offset' But after looking at it- I have thoroughly confused myself at this point.

    Why do all this? Because the car runs hot due to the air not switching to downstream after warm up. I checked the vac lines and all are connected and snug.
    Or are they? Here's what I need before I lose my mind:
    Which port is which on these things? Right now I have source at the top port and the bottom port line running to the diverter valve. Same for the TAB except the line of course goes to the bypass valve.
    How do I test these things properly? I have multiple books and clearly am confused. Name:  10-2020TABTAD 006.jpg
Views: 38
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    In addition, as I mentioned in a previous post, the wiring isn't according to the factory wire diagrams. The two wires to the TAD should be red and light green with black. The three wires to the TAB are two reds and a white with red. But my TAD has a red/ orange wire and the light green with black is on the TAB.Name:  TAB TAD 2020 003.jpg
Views: 39
Size:  244.3 KB
    Confused yet? I am. Maybe the factory got it wrong or the early wire harnesses weren't like the wire diagram version?
    I tested the system using the EEC-IV Monitor and everything checked out. But I need to do so again. And check where the wires go when they get to the computer. I plan to remove the TAB and TAD and related hoses and lines and start over.
    I checked the diverter valve and its good. Without vacuum the air flows downstream. I Seem to always have vacuum then maybe?
    In addition to many beers and more patience, any suggestions are most welcome. I need to clear this code and get this car running smooth. Its been running hot for years and this explains things. But I can't seem to get the Thermactor system right.
    Thanks all. I know this is a minor issue but until its fixed, I'm not going anywhere in it.
    Cheers.

  19. #19

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    PS- The part number on both TAB and TAD solenoids is E65E-9D473-A2A but the factory shop manual only lists a 9D472 number. Maybe wrong solenoid?

  20. #20

    Default

    Another update:

    I double checked the vacuum hoses all the way back to the manifold. All is good and tight, no kinks or binds or breaks, and routed properly.

    Next step was the EEC Monitor. Great tool. Hooked it up and ran through the tests for TAB and TAD. Remember the wire discrepancy? As if they were switched somehow? When checking for vacuum operation of the solenoids they wouldn't release when activated by the Monitor. I started with TAB. Since the wiring might be off, I switched to TAD and when the Monitor activated the solenoid to release the vacuum- bingo. TAB released. Completely switched the process and When checking TAD, TAB released vacuum. Seems the wiring is wrong.

    After putting things back together I switched the vac lines running from the solenoids to the valves they control. Actually, TAB solenoid now 'controls' the diverter valve and TAD 'controls' the bypass valve. Went for a test drive and the car ran very well. Temp gauge was comfortably in the lower half of the scale and upon return home ten or twelve miles later, the engine was not hot as it seems to always be. In other words, it appears to be running normal.

    But as always I pulled codes. Instead of just 44, now I get both 44 and 94. However, after looking around the entire Thermactor system, I found the metal check valve between the hose and the metal downstream tube wasn't doing its job. So a replacement is on the way. But I doubt that is the whole problem. I need to check the O2 sensors as these are the guys that throw the codes. Perhaps they are shot.

    So things have improved but not resolved. Maybe the air pump is on the fritz? Not sure. Another test ride is in the works with the Monitor to see what the O2s are seeing. I have replacements so maybe that may help. The cats are new as well, back in the Spring.

    Any ideas are most welcome. I reviewed some old posts and this problem has been around for a spell. Thought it was resolved two years ago. Lots of good advice thus far. Thanks everyone.

    Cheers.

  21. #21

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    And once more...

    Hooked up the Monitor again and went for a couple test drives. Checked both O2 sensors. Seems they are switching between lean and rich but they tend to stay on the rich side according to voltage. The right side stayed near .67 volts almost continually; the left side switched within more of a range of voltages, say from .5 to almost 1 volt. So the car appears to be running slightly rich if I read this all correctly. Monitor manual says the O2 are likely contaminated and/ or getting ready to fail. I think they may have somewhere near 25,000 miles on them but with the car running hot most of the time I'd say maybe they got cooked? Not sure but a I have spares so they'll get swapped out when the metal check valve arrives next week.

    Closing in.

    Cheers.

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