Close



Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Engine oil

  1. #1

    Default Engine oil

    can someone recommend which brand 10w30 engine oil to use in my 1984 SVO. iím reading a lot about the need of zinc... etc.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #2

    Default

    I recently used Valvoline 797975 (5W/30 synthetic blend) in my 85.5 SVO and it worked great.

  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    13,414

    Default

    Higher Zinc in the oil content is something that is debated among many. Not saying it doesn't/can't help, but there are others with more test data that shows the zinc content is not as important and thought many years ago.

    If you are not breaking in a new engine or camshaft, I personally wouldn't be that concerned with the zinc content. I would recommend a quality full synthetic oil that meets your temperature extremes and call it good. Personally I am not a big fan of the 0w and even the 5w oils in most cases as I feel they are just too thin to provide protection. A member on Corner-Carvers that worked for Ford on the 5.0 in Explorer and also the 4.6 projects admitted that the 5w20 oil recommendation from Ford had nothing to do with engine longevity and reduced wear. All of it was for better fuel economy. He stated all the test engines torn down during the prototype stages showed excessive wear due to the 5w20. I personally run 10w30 in all my Modular motors as well as my daughter's Mariners with the 3.0 V6 that specifies 5w20 and both vehicles are @ 150K miles with no engine issues.

    Most likely a 10w30 full synthetic will work just fine again depending on where you live. If you are in an extremely cold climate and plan on driving in the winter or colder months then you might consider a 5w30 for better oiling on cold startups. If you live down south with warmer climate then you might even consider a 10w40 to help with the additional heat generated by the Turbo and the hot ambient temperatures. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  4. #4

    Default

    what "wraithracing" said.

    If you are still overly concerned about needing zinc you can get zinc additive at almost any parts store and maybe even wally world!
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  5. #5

    Default

    I've been running Mobil 1 in everything since the late 1980's/early 1990's. Mustangs (2.3L, 5.0, 2.3L Turbo), Fairmonts (inline 6), 5.4L modular in Expeditions, Ranger 4.0L pushrod, Sport Trac 4.0L OHC, GMC Acadia and others. Knock on wood never had an internal engine failure (including timing chains on 5.4's with one going to over 280,000 miles and only being retired due to repeated spark plug thread stripping issues). Where I've had valve covers off everything is real clean with that oil.

    I run whatever weight is recommended in the manual which is either 10w-30 or 5w-30 depending on the vehicle. I see some merit to the argument that 5w is more a fuel economy thing than an engine wear thing, though and will consider using 10w in everything. Haven't owned a vehicle specifying 0w or anything lower than -30 so far so no experience with those light weight variations.

  6. #6

    Default

    Any difference on the 2.3 carb turbo cars? I cant find the correct spec on any websites and the OG oils back in the 80's probably have nothing on modern oils. I was planning to switch to a full synthetic 10w-40 from the 20-50 Castrol dino oil. I am on the West coast and typically drive in 50-95 (morning to afternoon) degree f weather with the occasional 100plus in summer. I was running the 50 due to higher temps and turbo but not seeing much in that high in spec on the synthetic oils. A reputable source says current synthetics dispel the rumors that your seals will leak if you switch to synthetic so I'm not worried about that. Am I on the right track?
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  7. #7
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    13,414

    Default

    The engine oil doesn't really care if the induction is EFI or carburetor. You might get a bit more cylinder wash with a carb over EFI depending on quality of tune, but otherwise no real difference.

    Obviously Synthetics have benefits over regular oil and I use them in virtually all of my vehicles now. I have seen 20w/50 synthetics, so it may just be a matter of finding a store that offers it. Although honestly in most cases 10w/40 will probably do all that you need anyway. Synthetics can cause some additional weepage and seepage in older seals, but don't necessarily cause "NEW" leaks. The synthetic being a bit more slippery in some cases than a conventional petroleum product can lead to additional drops on the garage floor. I don't believe you will actually feel any difference in the slickness of a synthetic over the conventional except in extreme conditions where the synthetics out perform conventional oils. Hope that helps.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  8. #8

    Default

    Thanks for the feedback Trey I'll stick with the higher weight and look for a high mileage version as I have some seepage already. I had my first engine issue in my life of car hobby (bearing sheen in the oil) on my Turbo Callaway Rabbit Gti due to I believe excess cylinder wash on conventional Castrol 20/50 so I am re-looking at oil routines. I run the Motorcraft 5w 50 full synthetic on my '07 Gt500 per spec and cuz it's still on the extended warranty but may switch brands depending on current specs once out of warranty!
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 10-22-2020 at 12:23 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  9. #9
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Leon County, FL
    Posts
    104

    Default

    Kinda wrong but I’m running high mile Havoline 10w30 in mine, about what the manual specs.

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    4,406

    Default

    Been using semi or full syn 10w30 in the Mustang's 2.3T engine, 5w30 in the Ranger 2.3 per owners manual.
    15w50 Mobil 1 was too much for the flat tappet T engine in Michigan's Humid Continental Climate.
    Valvoline syn or blend 5w30 in the truck. Roller valve train. Uses very little oil.
    Car makes up for that.
    Nothing but Motorcraft F1-1A oil filters ever, with the unique slotted not round hole design.
    Trying to avoid hi mile oil. Read the additives wash away the bit of sludge or whatever that had been stopping old gasket leaks.
    Seems like the car and truck leak more now than before using himile.
    Neither engine shows any blowby oil film in the pcv or v/c breather hoses.
    Last edited by gr79; 11-07-2020 at 11:41 PM.

  11. #11

    Default

    I always prefer to use a synthetic diesel oil in some of the older engines with "loose" factory clearances, plus they have some of the properties that old oil used to carry.
    1979 Ford Mustang Pace Car
    4.6 2V conversion underway!!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •