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  1. #1
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Default Brake hardline proximity to muffler.

    Almost afraid to ask but I finished my 8.8 install and routing of my brake line to the centre bracket. Installed my mufflers yesterday and wanted to know if this will be alright. I knew that getting the tail pipe away from the old rubber brake hose that attached to the axle housing on the 7.5 was critical but what about the hardline? So what I did was bent the hardline 90° from where it used to connect to the rubber hose via that bracket and connected a new piece of brake line that ran to the upper brake hose bracket. Like this
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    So after installing the passenger side muffler this is the clearance I've got. Sorry for the bad pics hope you can make it out
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    Last edited by Sask84gt; 09-08-2020 at 02:41 PM.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  2. #2
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    In a perfect world that would seem too close, but it is the way it was from stock, and actually where my fuel line is run I think
    It looks like you are doing a helluva a job on this car, I look forward to seeing it!

  3. #3
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ragtopjr View Post
    In a perfect world that would seem too close, but it is the way it was from stock, and actually where my fuel line is run I think
    It looks like you are doing a helluva a job on this car, I look forward to seeing it!
    Ya true but it was also single exhaust from stock so there was not any exhaust over on passenger side where the brake line was run. Hence why ford moved brake lines to middle of car when they started doing duel.

    Thanks for the praise man, appreciated. I've put a ton of work into it and it still seems so far away. Lol
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  4. #4

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    I agree that the gas and brake lines are "a little too close for comfort" near the rear axle.

    Imho, what I like for that area is heat resistant fiberglass shield. But, that means putting it on before you connect up the brake lines.

    SUPERFASTRACING 5 Feet Heat Sleeve Fiberglass Adjustable Heat Shield Sleeve Black 5FT X 6MM(1/4") for Car Wire Loom
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZF8957W/


    Heat Hose Fiberglass Wrap Shield Sleeve- 1/2" ID x 10'Black Adjustable Hose Heat Shield Spark Plug Wire fuel line heat shield Roll For Car Wire Loom cable Heat Shield Brake Line Cable Heat Shield
    https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Sh...dp/B07PJJZW6C/




    I use a lot of the DEI heat shroud wrap in my cars.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E267JC/
    Design Engineering 010457 Heat Shroud - Aluminized Sleeving for Ultimate Heat Protection (with Hook and Loop Closure), 0.5" - .75" x 3'




    But, for horizontal runs, the Aluminized Sleeving will/can retain moisture/water/etc.
    That's okay for wires and hoses, but not for brake or gas lines.

    So, to protect a horizontal run, it's best to have something like a mesh that can allow moisture to escape.
    Note that it can/will also allow moisture in. However, I doubt that many people are putting snow plows on the front of their Stang, and plowing snow in the winter. Nor, drive their car much in the rain/snow.


    Good luck.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by stangPlus2Birds View Post
    I agree that the gas and brake lines are "a little too close for comfort" near the rear axle.

    Imho, what I like for that area is heat resistant fiberglass shield. But, that means putting it on before you connect up the brake lines.

    SUPERFASTRACING 5 Feet Heat Sleeve Fiberglass Adjustable Heat Shield Sleeve Black 5FT X 6MM(1/4") for Car Wire Loom
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZF8957W/


    Heat Hose Fiberglass Wrap Shield Sleeve- 1/2" ID x 10'Black Adjustable Hose Heat Shield Spark Plug Wire fuel line heat shield Roll For Car Wire Loom cable Heat Shield Brake Line Cable Heat Shield
    https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Sh...dp/B07PJJZW6C/




    I use a lot of the DEI heat shroud wrap in my cars.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E267JC/
    Design Engineering 010457 Heat Shroud - Aluminized Sleeving for Ultimate Heat Protection (with Hook and Loop Closure), 0.5" - .75" x 3'




    But, for horizontal runs, the Aluminized Sleeving will/can retain moisture/water/etc.
    That's okay for wires and hoses, but not for brake or gas lines.

    So, to protect a horizontal run, it's best to have something like a mesh that can allow moisture to escape.
    Note that it can/will also allow moisture in. However, I doubt that many people are putting snow plows on the front of their Stang, and plowing snow in the winter. Nor, drive their car much in the rain/snow.


    Good luck.
    You guys all have to stop giving me idea's! I just cant afford them all!

    My ragtop suffers from the same brake line woes, as I never did come up with a solution.... given its a ragtop which has some added bracing welded in that make replacing the brake lines a little more complicated.....

  6. #6
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    Another item which fills up the space: Right side factory mufflers were also shorter but just about all dual exhaust replacements use equal sized mufflers On the left and right.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
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  7. #7
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Could add DIY metal heat shield(s) between heat source and brake lines.
    Can use cheap alum gutter patch metal and sheet metal screws.
    Screw metal shield(s) to floor pan if ok with doing that.
    Actually there are brake lines near exhaust manifolds, like near the m/c. Higher heat than from muffler.
    Dot 3 brake fluid boils at 400 they say. Is not a stranger to heat from brakes.
    Read mufflers can get 300-500. Painted glass pak eventually discolor or burn their paint off.
    IR heat gun would tell. Vehicles differ.
    Plus ambient weather -20 on freeway vs stopped over 120° asphalt pavement.
    Best to also keep fuel lines cool as possible of course.
    Last edited by gr79; 09-09-2020 at 04:02 PM.

  8. #8

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    Name:  Rear Brake New Route.jpg
Views: 59
Size:  225.2 KB Rerouting all of mine. But my exhaust will end at a much small muffler with just turndown ends off the mufflers. Deleted all EFI except FPR My 3 inch H-pipe will be narrower once I mock it up to the headers during installation. My REAR brake line now runs down the Driver side frame rail the is a true frame rail that is welded to the floor and frame rail ends.

  9. #9
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Nice work. I do have a concern where the line transitions from the frame rail up past the pinch weld. Can't tell how far away the curved line is from the pinch weld, but I would have added some spring wrap armor guard to that area to prevent any abrasion on the brake line. Might consider an additional clamp or at least some fuel line over the brake line to prevent any rubbing. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

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  10. #10

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    Wow that looks amazing, nice job!
    a piece of fuel line near the pinch weld and you’ll be fine imho
    Also using aluminum for a heat shield seems weird to me since aluminum heats up faster than steel.
    maybe aluminum with some heat wrap around it would be more effective
    Last edited by massacre; 09-21-2020 at 05:15 PM.
    79 Zephyr, 4v/4r70w swap planned, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs.

  11. #11

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    Thank you for the insight. I appreciate it. Mine too! I have 1/4 clearance everywhere, but have removed it once I mocked it up. I am contemplating reinforce welding the upper and lower control arm mounts as I am considering Spherical rod ends for the upper and lower control arms. I've read and talked to folks in the industry and many opinions right on forums too I did look at it a thousand times and "safety first" says, yes I will definitely be adding a few more line clamps as vibration and the rare instance of running over something is a definite factor in all I do under the car.
    Thank you

  12. #12

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    You should also add some clamps on the vertical run, and then the horizontal run up top.

    Don't forget, that a Fox body has the rigidity of a wet noodle. So, the wet-noodle uni-body and brake line will both be moving around. Imho, gas hose on the brake-line as a protectant in that area, would be good insurance. GM does similar things when they route some brake lines near the firewall.


    Imho, an issue with a metal heat shield between the muffler, is that there is little room. There's also very little room/mounting-area to make a heavy heat shield that can effectively transfer the captured heat to the body. The heat has to go somewhere.
    What can happen is that a metal heat shield in a tight area, can cause the victim part get hotter. That can happen if the heat shield captures heat that would've been carried away by air. Can't dissipate the captured heat fast enough. Then transfers that captured heat to the closer victim.


    Good Luck!

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by massacre View Post
    Wow that looks amazing, nice job!
    a piece of fuel line near the pinch weld and you’ll be fine imho
    Also using aluminum for a heat shield seems weird to me since aluminum heats up faster than steel.
    maybe aluminum with some heat wrap around it would be more effective
    Was thinking exhaust cat shields, exh manifold heat duct, or under carbs. Prob more accurate to say stainless steel..
    Had one where the exhaust crossed under the oil pan, one on top of the carb 2.3 turbocharger.
    Plus factory foil wrap, pads, on components under hood.
    past owned daily driven and enjoyed
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  14. #14

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    Stainless would work much better
    79 Zephyr, 4v/4r70w swap planned, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs.

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