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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default Does your T5 sit too high?

    When I installed my T5-Z behind the 302, I used a Stiffler's crossmember as I had included the old one with the drive train when I gave it away because I knew I'd need a double-hump. Have any of you done this and found your transmission too high even using the recommended LMR poly mount? I did. It is so high I can't install the bolts for the shift boot because they hit the shifter base. And that is with with using NEITHER of the two spacers Stiffler's says you'll use.

    Well, I think I have a solution. I ordered a Moroso solid transmission mount for a Chevy which measures 1 3/4" tall. The Ford mounts run about 2 3/4" tall. But, the trans mount points on the Chevy mount are narrower. So my plan is to weld a steel strip 1/8" thick across the Chevy mount and drill the holes in that at the proper 5.5" Ford spacing. This will give me a mount about 1" shorter which will cure my ills with the shift boot as well as raise the front of the block a bit as I think it is touching the steering rack with the transmission so high.

    IIRC the block is installed with the Anchor convertible mounts and I notched the crossmember to get it to sit down on the mounting pads.

    Anywho, if any of y'all have had this issue I will let you know how my 'solution' works out. Maybe this is just a four-door Granada issue?

    I *might* get a 1/4" thick slab of hard rubber to install under the mount so it has some vibration absorption and won't act like a true solid mount, still giving me about 3/4" drop. Haven't decided on that yet.
    Last edited by richpet; 09-03-2020 at 07:21 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  2. #2

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    I had a similar issue with my 78 Zephyr with a T5Z, but I thought the trans wasnt too high but rather the floor was too low.
    bolts for boot hit trans too. So I got the T5 trans hump from LMR. I had to cut out the opening on the floor a little bit but the new hump piece covers well now and everything fits great. I use a factory crossmember.
    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-7277A/1979-...on-Tunnel-Hump
    1978 Mercury Zephyr boxtop 5.0 EFI T5Z 8.8
    1999 Ford Contour 2.5 V6 5 speed
    2016 Ford Focus ST 2.0 Ecoboost 6 speed

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ukravit View Post
    I had a similar issue with my 78 Zephyr with a T5Z, but I thought the trans wasnt too high but rather the floor was too low.
    bolts for boot hit trans too. So I got the T5 trans hump from LMR. I had to cut out the opening on the floor a little bit but the new hump piece covers well now and everything fits great. I use a factory crossmember.
    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-7277A/1979-...on-Tunnel-Hump
    Yep, this.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    Default

    Added trans hump in my Fairmont:

    Attachment 133929

    Mike

  5. #5

    Default

    That is a nice piece! Looks fairly easy to install as well
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Default

    I found that using low-profile engine mounts, the transmission will teeter on the crossmember and tail housing will be raised higher.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default

    Lower shift boot mounting isn't the issue as I am re-using the car's original lower and upper shift boot since it was a factory 4-speed car. All the holes line up fine.
    The transmission just sits quite high in the tunnel and I want to drop it a touch for clearance.
    Plus, this solid mount fix will run less than half the cost of the tunnel addition. Even if I add a thin bit of rubber isolation.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  8. #8
    FEP Member
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    Default

    Will dropping the rear of the transmission affect the u-joint angles enough to cause vibration?
    I don't know.

  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by darkd0r View Post
    Will dropping the rear of the transmission affect the u-joint angles enough to cause vibration?
    I don't know.
    Yes it could.

    You'll need to check the drive shaft angles and possibly adjust the pinion angle of the diff to ensure correct alignment. Unequal angles will result in driveline oscillations which may be felt as vibrations and can be hard on the u-joints.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by richpet View Post
    When I installed my T5-Z behind the 302, I used a Stiffler's crossmember as I had included the old one with the drive train when I gave it away because I knew I'd need a double-hump. Have any of you done this and found your transmission too high even using the recommended LMR poly mount? I did. It is so high I can't install the bolts for the shift boot because they hit the shifter base. And that is with with using NEITHER of the two spacers Stiffler's says you'll use.

    Well, I think I have a solution. I ordered a Moroso solid transmission mount for a Chevy which measures 1 3/4" tall. The Ford mounts run about 2 3/4" tall. But, the trans mount points on the Chevy mount are narrower. So my plan is to weld a steel strip 1/8" thick across the Chevy mount and drill the holes in that at the proper 5.5" Ford spacing. This will give me a mount about 1" shorter which will cure my ills with the shift boot as well as raise the front of the block a bit as I think it is touching the steering rack with the transmission so high.

    IIRC the block is installed with the Anchor convertible mounts and I notched the crossmember to get it to sit down on the mounting pads.

    Anywho, if any of y'all have had this issue I will let you know how my 'solution' works out. Maybe this is just a four-door Granada issue?

    I *might* get a 1/4" thick slab of hard rubber to install under the mount so it has some vibration absorption and won't act like a true solid mount, still giving me about 3/4" drop. Haven't decided on that yet.
    I did the exact same thing on my srod car when swapping to t5. Worked great. Just enough room!
    1982 Mercury Capri Godzilla swapped/T56
    1984 Mercury Capri RS T-Top, 4.6 Terminator Whipple
    1979 Mercury Capri RS Turbo, SVO powertrain..(under construction)
    1979 Mercury Capri RS Bright Yellow
    1983 Mercury Capri RS 21k original miles
    1985 Mercury Capri Mclaren Convertible

    Check out my youtube channel for Four Eyed Fox stuff!
    https://youtube.com/@401foxbody

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default

    For those curious - had the car up to around, um, double highway speed (allegedly) with no vibration that I noticed...
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default

    And LMR no longer carries that T5 hump kit. I think I am going to cut the hole as needed and do my best to fit the shift boot stuff back in, or check eBay for a hump kit.
    I don't seem to be having any issues, but with it a touch lower my shaft runs close to the exhaust and, well, if it belongs a bit higher I want to do that.

    Edit - CJPony parts carries the hump kit. From just the hump (about $95) to a compete kit with rivetsand lower shift boot for about $126. Looks like I'm spending some money today.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    Last edited by richpet; 09-19-2022 at 10:37 AM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

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