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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Default Lmr upper brake hose bracket install

    So the next part of my 8.8 install on my 84.5 is the upper brake hose bracket. Seems 85 and 86 already have the appropriate holes already to mount but the 84 doesn't. There are a couple of holes that match the holes on the bracket but they are pretty big. You can see them here.
    Attachment 133744

    What's the best option? Move a bit to the passenger side( right beside the bigger ones) and drill 2 new holes for rivets? What size of rivets should I use? Should I be doing this with suspension hanging at lowest point to make sure hose can handle full travel?
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 08-17-2020 at 05:56 PM.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  2. #2

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    Is this picture being taken from the pass side or drivers side?
    kinda hard to see.

    i would def test the travel
    Last edited by massacre; 08-17-2020 at 07:52 PM.
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by massacre View Post
    Is this picture being taken from the pass side or drivers side?
    kinda hard to see.

    i would def test the travel
    Pic is taken looking straight up on drivers side.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  4. #4

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    I just put one of those brackets on my 83 GT last week and the holes were already there. Riveted it right to the holes.

    I'm not 100% sure how your picture is oriented. Are you trying to use the two large holes or the two on the diagonal? If I remember correctly it's the two on the diagonal.

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangwolf View Post
    I just put one of those brackets on my 83 GT last week and the holes were already there. Riveted it right to the holes.

    I'm not 100% sure how your picture is oriented. Are you trying to use the two large holes or the two on the diagonal? If I remember correctly it's the two on the diagonal.
    Thanks for the reply. The ones on the diagonal are the ones that I should use but they are pretty big. What size rivets did you use? I was going to move the bracket a bit to the passenger side and drill 2 smaller holes to use smaller rivets.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  6. #6

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    My car had an exhaust hanger in the location of those 2 holes, so they were already threaded.
    They bolts are big, had to drill out the bracket to use the 2 bolts
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  7. #7
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Pretty sure the rivets are normally 1/4". So you will need one of the larger rivet guns to install them properly. Otherwise you will need to bolt the bracket in place or drill new holes in a different location. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
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  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Pretty sure the rivets are normally 1/4". So you will need one of the larger rivet guns to install them properly. Otherwise you will need to bolt the bracket in place or drill new holes in a different location. Good Luck!
    I have a gun that will do 1/4 inch but those 2 hole are closer to 1/2 inch then quarter. Maybe I dont understand how rivets work but I'm pretty sure 1/4 won't work on those holes. I've seen pics of 86 and up and the holes are in the same location and the orientation is the same but the holes are way smaller. Here is a pic taken from a video of a 86 install.
    Attachment 133755
    So it's looking like best bet is to either drill new holes and rivet or drill and secure with self tapping sheet metal screws using some loc tight to keep em secure.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

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  10. #10
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I didn't look at the size of the holes that closely, but they do appear to be fairly large on second glance. I am sure you understand rivets, so I won't go down that path.

    Since you are fabricating the line going to the bracket anyway, my opinion would be to drill a couple of new holes just in front of the current holes and rivet the bracket in place. Moving the bracket @ 1" or so shouldn't cause any issues in regards to clearance or hose length in most cases. The only exception I can see would be if you moved the bracket further away from the rear axle might cause the hose to be too short at full droop of the suspension, otherwise no worries. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the info! One other question I had and it's not so much concerning the lmr bracket but the brake hose bracket that mounts to the diff. I got the J&M one from lmr that came with 2 copper sealing washers. I take it those washers go on top and bottom of the block that the banjo bolt goes through? Just want to make sure so I don't have any leaks. Hope that makes sense lol
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  12. #12
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sask84gt View Post
    Thanks for all the info! One other question I had and it's not so much concerning the lmr bracket but the brake hose bracket that mounts to the diff. I got the J&M one from lmr that came with 2 copper sealing washers. I take it those washers go on top and bottom of the block that the banjo bolt goes through? Just want to make sure so I don't have any leaks. Hope that makes sense lol
    Yep! You got it! Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  13. #13
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Got it installed. I could not find 1/4" rivets for the life of me though so I ended up using 1/4" stainless sheet metal screws for now. I will put some red lock tight on them and that should be good for a bit until I can do it properly with rivets. Havent checked it yet with full suspension drop but looking at it it should be fine I hope. Thanks again for all the help guys, this site rules.
    Attachment 133786
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 08-22-2020 at 02:18 PM.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  14. #14

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    Wow looks great, nice job!
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sask84gt View Post
    Got it installed. I could not find 1/4" rivets for the life of me though so I ended up using 1/4" stainless sheet metal screws for now.
    It looks good! :-)


    Sorry, I should've replied sooner.
    Below are what I used:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CU25C/
    10 Lock Actuator Peel-Type Rivet Compatible with Ford Door N808689-S417
    Price: $17.99

    Door Lock Actuator “Peel-Type” Rivet
    Aluminum Rivet (Black) Aluminum Mandrel
    1/4” Diameter
    Grip: 1/8”-21/64”
    Flange Diameter: 3/4”
    Compatible with Ford: N808689-S417 Continental, Crown Victoria, F Series Truck, Grand Marquis, Mark VII, Mustang, Ranger, Sable, Taurus, Town Car & Windstar 1995-
    10 Per Package








    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00061SFDM/
    Astro 1426 1/4-Inch Heavy-Duty Hand RiveterVisit the Astro Pneumatic Tool
    Price: $33.88

    • Extra long handles provide excellent leverage
    • Includes 5 nosepieces: 1/8-inch, 5/32-inch, 3/16-inch, 7/32-inch, 1/4-inch
    • Spent mandrels are collected in the plastic container for safety and ease of disposal
    • Tool length 20-3/4-inch
    • Weight 5 lbs.




    Good Luck!

  16. #16
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stangPlus2Birds View Post
    It looks good! :-)


    Sorry, I should've replied sooner.
    Below are what I used:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CU25C/
    10 Lock Actuator Peel-Type Rivet Compatible with Ford Door N808689-S417
    Price: $17.99

    Door Lock Actuator “Peel-Type” Rivet
    Aluminum Rivet (Black) Aluminum Mandrel
    1/4” Diameter
    Grip: 1/8”-21/64”
    Flange Diameter: 3/4”
    Compatible with Ford: N808689-S417 Continental, Crown Victoria, F Series Truck, Grand Marquis, Mark VII, Mustang, Ranger, Sable, Taurus, Town Car & Windstar 1995-
    10 Per Package








    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00061SFDM/
    Astro 1426 1/4-Inch Heavy-Duty Hand RiveterVisit the Astro Pneumatic Tool
    Price: $33.88

    • Extra long handles provide excellent leverage
    • Includes 5 nosepieces: 1/8-inch, 5/32-inch, 3/16-inch, 7/32-inch, 1/4-inch
    • Spent mandrels are collected in the plastic container for safety and ease of disposal
    • Tool length 20-3/4-inch
    • Weight 5 lbs.




    Good Luck!
    Thanks for the info man. I've got the Astro 1423 which can do 1/4" rivets. It's very good but I wish I would have got the longer handle one instead.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Save up and get a pneumatic riveter if planning more 1/4" or 3/16" jobs and have air compressor.
    Takes the bull work out of the task and actually fun to use.
    Will never use a hand op style again.
    Got the big one from CP/HF, and smaller one at a garage sale. Ebay, for one, has them for CA destinations.
    Will do smaller down to rivet gun size with internal tool change. SS too, even small are hard to do by hand.
    1/4" and 3/16" is only a nose piece change just like a hand tool. Uses little air.
    Quick one or two trigger pulls sets the rivet. Balanced one handed operation makes a difference.
    Can concentrate on pushing tool and material together for a straight tight rivet.
    Gets into areas the awkward long handles can't easily because of tool handle size.
    More expensive but they pay for themselves quick first DIY job.
    Add an air connection swivel, a small clear partitioned plastic box for the extra tool parts
    A 1.00 clear shoe box works perfect for rivets and wrenches. Plus hot glue gun with glue sticks. A kit.

    Spent rivet mandrel nails- make sure to keep track of how many were used. No flat tires.

    Tool and rivets are great for no weld body work option when the time comes.
    Bought tool to install reinforcement plates in Ford SVO chassis stiff kit. Kit came with 1/4" steel rivets.
    Patched floor without replacing pans or welding.

    Hardware stores, auto body supply, tool supply, online shopping, have 1/4" rivets.
    Steel, SS, aluminum, shallow, deep wide, narrow flange.
    Got mine from HF (US) big bag of 100.
    Used them for Ranger's new door handle. Took couple minutes.
    Was able to use one hand to hold and lift handle in position and other hand to work tool.
    Took longer for handle connections and deal with door panel.
    Last edited by gr79; 08-24-2020 at 03:27 PM.

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