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Thread: Code 22 MAP

  1. #1
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default Code 22 MAP

    my 84 5.0 runs like a dream most of the time. A few weeks ago I experienced it dropping rpms standing at a red light. It almost stalls then eventually does stall. It starts right back up. I have to either keep a foot on the gas pedal when sitting at a red light, or I slip it into neutral to bump up the idle.

    Sometimes it clears up on its own, sometimes not. I ran a code check and got KOEO 22, KOER 11, CM 11

    I have had KOEO code 22 randomly in the past. it comes and goes. Its odd that it drops rpms when running but KOER finds no errors or codes.

    Previously I tried chasing the code 22 and after trying 4 or 5 different MAP sensors the only one that makes the code go away 955 of the time was a used Motorcraft. Brand new Motorcrafts and Standards and the cade was present 100% of the time. the used MAP cleared the code but it would pop up from time to time.

    I dont know if thats the cause of this irregular idle. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    I have 2 spares in my garage so i swapped out the MAP with another one. I also clipped the ends of the vacuum hose as they were flared. So far no code 22 and the car was running much better today. no idle surge but it does drop about 50 rpm when the AC is on high. The dashpot is getting vacuum when the AC is on and the dashpot does hold vacuum too.

  3. #3

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    Does it recover if you turn it off and restart? Mine did that but only in open loop. Last time it did it, maybe 2 months ago, it seemed like the engine was confused about its temperature.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers
    GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake
    K&N filter in stock dual snorkel
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Firehawk A/S 225/55/16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 225/45/15 on 10 holes (race)
    Everything else stock and fully functional.

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    Does it recover if you turn it off and restart? Mine did that but only in open loop. Last time it did it, maybe 2 months ago, it seemed like the engine was confused about its temperature.
    The car would start right up again but may or may not go back into idle dropping to another stall.

  5. #5

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    Hmmm... I wish I could tell you what I did, but the only thing I have replaced since that last bought was the PIP. The only time I get that idle issue now is when my aluminum intake cools down below 180 and the car thinks it's cold.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers
    GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake
    K&N filter in stock dual snorkel
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Firehawk A/S 225/55/16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 225/45/15 on 10 holes (race)
    Everything else stock and fully functional.

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    Hmmm... I wish I could tell you what I did, but the only thing I have replaced since that last bought was the PIP. The only time I get that idle issue now is when my aluminum intake cools down below 180 and the car thinks it's cold.
    I had the PIP changed twice now. First with a Standard, then with a Motorcraft. It's a hassle because the distributor has to be disassembled and re assembled and thats not easy from someone that never did it. I paid the local machine shop both times to change out my PIP and that was because I had a PIP code. Not the case now.

    I will say though, that the other day I was at my mechanics shop waiting to get the stang on the lift. I left it running. came back 5 minutes later to find it stalled. So theres still a hidden problem.

  7. #7

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    The last time I changed mine there was no code. I caught on because it wouldn't hold timing. Not saying at all your pip is the problem. Does it do it cold or just warmed up.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers
    GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake
    K&N filter in stock dual snorkel
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Firehawk A/S 225/55/16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 225/45/15 on 10 holes (race)
    Everything else stock and fully functional.

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    The last time I changed mine there was no code. I caught on because it wouldn't hold timing. Not saying at all your pip is the problem. Does it do it cold or just warmed up.
    runs better cold, gets worse as it warms up

  9. #9

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    That makes me suspect charge temp sensor or engine temp sensor.

    Maybe just a bad connection?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers
    GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake
    K&N filter in stock dual snorkel
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Firehawk A/S 225/55/16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 225/45/15 on 10 holes (race)
    Everything else stock and fully functional.

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