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  1. #1

    Default 1G to 3G conversion without "the kit"

    Working on a 1983 Merc Capri RS. I have a 3G alternator from an 96 Mustang and the supporting wiring harness from a 94 F150 (which also had a 3G alternator).

    The 3G bolted up fine to my 2.3 Turbo setup. The wiring harness from the 94 F150 also easily connects to the 3G with ease. It has a lead which connects directly to the battery post on the starter solenoid and the lite green w/red trace wire to excite the charging circuit.

    I am trying to simplify the under hood look so I's like to not have the fender mounted regulator so I didn't buy the conversion kit available by some of the main vendors. My goal is effective charging - the function of the charge gauge is less of a concern.

    To achieve functionality is it reasonable to connect the 3G lite green w red trace to the same color from the FOX external regulator? If so I'm hoping to preserve all the old wiring and connectors but add a spade connector to the 3G harness and tuck the old harness it in the inner fender.

  2. #2

    Default

    Yes, that's basically how I did mine. Connect the green/red stripe wire from your factory wiring to the green/red stripe wire of the 3G plug, run the yellow/white stripe wire to a battery+ (I went straight to battery terminal), then run white/black stripe wire to the single-pin stator terminal on the alternator.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  3. #3

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    Yes I have also done a couple 3G upgrades that way too. The key like you say is to get the supporting wire harness/connectors from a donor car 3G which makes it easier to interface.

    IIRC the factory wire harness from a 94-98 mustang also has the fusible links incorporated on the main power wire to protect if there is a dead short somewhere.

  4. #4

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    Are the gauges being plugged in required for the green w red trace to be excited? Currently the gauges are unplugged. Everything in the charging system I think is connected but I have 12v not 14v when it’s running.

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    You need the gauge cluster to be plugged in. Voltage runs through the alt/batt light in the cluster. No cluster. No charge.

  6. #6

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    Plugged in the gauges and still not charging. I should be able to Manually apply 12v to the green w red wire and see it charge Right?

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Yes. In my Vic the alt light is removed (custom gauge cluster mods) and therefor I had to apply 12v to that line for the alt to charge.

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