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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default 84 Convertible driver door leaks

    I have an 84 LX convertible. I have been trying to fix leaks by the A pillar for a few years now. I used to have leaks on both sides but I fixed the passenger side. I tried to duplicate my steps on the driver side but to no avail.

    First, all weatherstripping on this car has been changed and some of it changed more than once. Heres pics of the actual drips I find after every rain storm. It seems to be dripping from under the side view mirror handle plate.

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    For a long time I assumed it was the side view mirror handle plat that was leaking but it isnt. After sitting in the car durring a rain storm with a flashlight I saw the drops slowly leak from the connecting point where Run Chanel weatherstrip goes around the side view mirror and mesh's into the A pillar weather strip.

    On the passenger side I padded under the run channel (look at first pic, you can see the puffy part where I put foam strip) on the side where it mush's into the A pillar weatherstrip with some foam weatherstrip with self stick adhesive. It worked well on the passenger side so for good measure I ordered and installed brand new run channel weather stripping. I was disappointed at how beat up they got after barely 3 years. And I ordered brand new A pillar weather stripping. this time I got NOS Motorcrafts because anything made of rubber or plastic by Daniel carpenter is guaranteed to be junk.

    The passenger side held up after the new weatherstripping was installed. I kept the strip of foam between the side view mirror mount point and the run channel on the inside part of the door to keep the contacts mushing tight. Weeks later, not a drop of water on the passenger side. So I moved on the driver side. copied my steps. put in new run channel and A pillar weather stripping. Also changed the door weatherstripping on both sides too as this is part of the equation when keeping a vert free of air and water leaks. For some reason the driver side still leaks when it rains. My door panel's carton backing turned to mush around the speaker. The speaker is getting rusty all around.

    The leak is in the same place its always been in. Since its not physically possible for the side view mirror to leak (I removed it, put butyl all around the contact areas.) I think the A pillar is still allowing water to pass. Look at this pic, You can see the run channel mesh perfectly with the A pillar weatherstrip. This pic was taken with me holding the door until they mushed, When closing the door till it clicks, the contact is perfect.

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    Now look at the pics of the inside part of the A pillar and Run channel weatherstrips. They are both bone dry on the inside parts that mush's with the window.

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    I'm out of ideas. Anybody have a suggestion?
    Last edited by fgross2006; 07-17-2020 at 09:53 PM.

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    3M used to make a spray powder for tracing/finding weatherstripping leaks. I believe Ford had one too, probably made by 3M. Here is essentially what I am talking about. https://www.kent-automotive.com/imag...terLeak_AD.pdf

    You would spray the powder around the area of the leak and be able to see where contact was not being made by the weatherstripping. You can also trace the path of the water thru the powder sometimes. You may not need this exact setup, but something like this is the best option to determine where your leak is actually coming from.

    I will also mention that although it appears it may not be an issue, the A pillar mirror mount does have some flex in it and can be persuaded inward to help tighten the seal against the body. I have done this on many hardtop where people yank on the back edge of the window frame and tweak it outward and cause a leak and or wind noise. Obviously the convertible and T-top cars don't have the frame, but you can still adjust the mirror area a bit if that helps improve the seal and prevent water leaks. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3

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    I have the same car with the same leak. For the life of me I can't get it to stop. I don't drive the car in the rain and use a car cover. I sure wish I could find an answer.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    3M used to make a spray powder for tracing/finding weatherstripping leaks. I believe Ford had one too, probably made by 3M. Here is essentially what I am talking about. https://www.kent-automotive.com/imag...terLeak_AD.pdf

    You would spray the powder around the area of the leak and be able to see where contact was not being made by the weatherstripping. You can also trace the path of the water thru the powder sometimes. You may not need this exact setup, but something like this is the best option to determine where your leak is actually coming from.

    I will also mention that although it appears it may not be an issue, the A pillar mirror mount does have some flex in it and can be persuaded inward to help tighten the seal against the body. I have done this on many hardtop where people yank on the back edge of the window frame and tweak it outward and cause a leak and or wind noise. Obviously the convertible and T-top cars don't have the frame, but you can still adjust the mirror area a bit if that helps improve the seal and prevent water leaks. Good Luck!
    I've heard this same technique (tweaking the mirror mount) used with varying degrees of success.
    84 Capri RS Turbo
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  5. #5

    Default Mustang Convertible Diagnosis and Service Procedures

    Do any of you guys own the service book Ford made for your convertibles?

    Might be handy and has some of the adjustments & service procedures specifically for your vehicles.

    It's a shame that I don't see one in the FourEyedPride "Library" section of the website. It'd be nice if someone (who already has one or buys one) would scan & upload it to the FEP Library collection. It'd be much easier for owners to see & discuss their problems by citing the various pages Ford shows that highlights specific repairs adjustments etc.

    I see a couple of them on eBay right now. Could be handy to own for personal use and even to hand over to a mechanic if you take it somewhere to have it worked on

    The book is called . . .

    Mustang Convertible Diagnosis and Service Procedures


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    #1) 1985 Mercury Capri 5.0L 4V 5-Speed T-Roof Motorsport Grand Prix IV
    #2) 1985 Mercury Capri 5.0L 4V 5-Speed T-Roof

    "Tolerance and apathy are the last virtues of a dying society" - Aristotle

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MERCURY MOTORSPORT View Post
    Do any of you guys own the service book Ford made for your convertibles?

    Might be handy and has some of the adjustments & service procedures specifically for your vehicles.

    It's a shame that I don't see one in the FourEyedPride "Library" section of the website. It'd be nice if someone (who already has one or buys one) would scan & upload it to the FEP Library collection. It'd be much easier for owners to see & discuss their problems by citing the various pages Ford shows that highlights specific repairs adjustments etc.

    I see a couple of them on eBay right now. Could be handy to own for personal use and even to hand over to a mechanic if you take it somewhere to have it worked on

    The book is called . . .

    Mustang Convertible Diagnosis and Service Procedures


    Name:  Mustang Convertible Diagnosis and Service Procedures (1).jpg
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    I do have the manual. its essential for any Foxbody convertible owner.

    I have been over the A pillar adjustment over and over. I have to assume the leak is different from driver to passenger side. Replacing the A pillar weather strip, the run channel weatherstrip, beefing up the where the run channel rubber around the interior side view handle plate by putting a strip of strip foam under the run channel rubber to fatten up the contact to the A pillar weather strip all made a difference on the passenger side and stopped the leak 100%.

    On the driver side not only did I do the same things, I can see the Run channel weather strip mush tight into the A pillar weather strip. Replacing the door weather stripping also helped to insure the door closes tight. I have come to think the leak is in fact coming right through the driver side view mirror. the A pillar is dry when I open the door after a heavy rain. The drip is right under the side view mirror handle plate. I have to take the plate off next time it rains so i can see where the water is accumulating.

    I did that on the passenger side last winter and i could see the water drops form between the A pillar and run channel weather stripping. So if I can adjust the driver side view mirror for the opening to tilt down in front it might help. otherwise I might have to put some butyl tape inside the mirror to stop water flow through the back end of the mirror body.

  7. #7
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    There is a small gasket normally on the side mirrors. If that is missing, damaged, or just plain dried out that could be part of the issue. The other would be the rubber grommet that is on the cables that pass through the door frame. If that is missing or damaged that could be a huge potential leak. The mounting studs should also have some sealant (butyl or strip caulk type) sealant on them as well. I would double check all of those items and be sure they are sealed properly as any of those could be your issues if you are positive the door to body sealing is good.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    There is a small gasket normally on the side mirrors. If that is missing, damaged, or just plain dried out that could be part of the issue. The other would be the rubber grommet that is on the cables that pass through the door frame. If that is missing or damaged that could be a huge potential leak. The mounting studs should also have some sealant (butyl or strip caulk type) sealant on them as well. I would double check all of those items and be sure they are sealed properly as any of those could be your issues if you are positive the door to body sealing is good.
    I have spare parts of this set up. i placed them on a workbench roughly the way they sit on either side of the door sail mount.

    Look at the square hole at the bottom of the side view mirror case/ It looks like on heavy rain days water could literally funnel to the back of the case and drip right into and under the mirror handle thats inside the car.

    I have to take the plate off again and look at it to see if that opening is accessible from the inside to allow water to pass through.

    I had this whole assembly apart last winter and I built up the seat behind the mirror assembly with foam and butyl tape. Im sure the mirror seals to the sail mount fine. It has to be leaking right through.

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  9. #9
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Get the hose and flashlight out.
    Sit in car with flashlight. May take a few minutes for water to travel and drip.
    Could dust talc or something as a path tracer, check for weather strip/door contact points or lack of.
    "Water wins.. that's why there's a Grand Canyon."

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Get the hose and flashlight out.
    Sit in car with flashlight. May take a few minutes for water to travel and drip.
    Could dust talc or something as a path tracer, check for weather strip/door contact points or lack of.
    "Water wins.. that's why there's a Grand Canyon."
    Yeah, I actually have a few tasks to take care of on the driver side door.

    Have to pull off the door panel again and try to make a 6 inch Rockford Fosgate fit under the door panel. I dont know why i got it to fit under the passenger side but the driver side is not cooperating.

    I have to pull the sunvisor bracket to fix a short in the lighted rear view mirror. Something i caused putting it back together a few weeks ago.

    And yes, i need to take off the side view mirror handle and bezel plate and take a closer look at where water is intruding on the driver side.

    I sealed up the passenger side so i know this can be fixed.

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Well i know what it is now. Same thing it always was. the A pillar weather strip and the bottom where it crushes and should be resting on top of the run channel weatherstrip.

    This is how it looks when i simply close the door.

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    See how the A pillar strip folds inward leaving a gap above the run channel peak.


    Now this is if I pinch the bottom before I close the door and make it fold over the run channel.

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    I just ran a hose on shower setting and clearly saw the water intrusion. I just put these A pillar strips on last summer. Passenger side sits perfect, not a drop of water. Driver side I cant adjust anymore. its at the end of its travel. The A pillar bracket would have to move past the windshield A pillar molding.

    The convertible booklet shows how to adjust the A pillar brackets but my original brackets had location holes that I had to elongate with a dremmel to make slots just to get some adjustment out of it. but there is no more travel. I have tried using RTV, weatherstripping glue, even crazy glue to try to make the bottom of the A pillar strip stay in that spot but it just wont.

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    unfortunately, to start trying to fix this AGAIN, I have to get, yet another A pillar weatherstrip. I prefer NOS Motorcraft over Daniel Carpenters, but I cant find a NOS for less that 100 bucks. Im thinking to take a chance on a DC repro this time. I can always swap it out next summer.

    Any thoughts on this? NOS vs Daniel carpenter?

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