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  1. #51

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    Ok I did the start car in dark garage with wet misted wires trick. No arcing etc. Also the 12v testlight to ground along all the wires and no arcing. Pulled #1 plug and checked sark color orange with a speck of blue on arc points.. maybe try a coil next..

  2. #52

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    Any suggestions on a coil that can be mounted in the factory location horizontal without burning up the ds2 module and last longer than a couple months? (Lowest chinesium content) Lol.. I do not want to vertical mount and spend days trying to find a coil wire that will reach from parts store chev nerd.
    .

  3. #53

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    Ok replaced the coil and test driven. Runs really bad. Backfires like crazy when I hit the gas. I tried -4 to plus 8 on the inital. Mechanical is 10.... any more than 2 will ping. Once it almost sounded like the key was turned off.. I like how ford has the wiring backwards on the ignition side and at the duraspark it is right. The red and white wires plus together.. it still gets 12v to the duraspark key on red and 8 or 9volts cranking to the white . So it good enough..

  4. #54

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    Removed ds2. Found epoxy looks good underneath. Reinstalled . Swapped back by old pickup, test driven still backfires.. now thinking that vac plug I changed perhaps now the secondaries are opening under load as the spring was replaced. Will close pin that and the choke open(electric) and test drive next.. F me!! 18 hours later


    ..

  5. #55

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    Ok went one spring stiffer on the vac secondaries no change..
    Went back to the new pickup and reluctor. Found my mechanical advance only going up to 15 degrees even at 4k. Used to be 25 degrees before it started running poorly.
    I took apart the distributor and checked the wieghts and opened my slot a bit and pushed in the tab for less spring pressure. Reassembled and found no change max advance is not increasing. Why the heck can this be?? Can the duraspark not be firing the coil fast enough? This is the strangest thing ever... any ideas anyone?? Junk it all and drop 1200 on a compete msd setup?? Anyone ever experience this??

  6. #56

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    Replaced the ignition module.. still runs like crap
    . Maybe timing chain stretched.. i got 5 degrees on my crank b4 the rotor moves... I think due to the engine builder not checking the end play and getting the correct thrust plate... crap.. I hate this car I wish I never bought it.should put a low compression 305 chevy engine in it...this 302 is nothing but trouble.. intake is leaking oil for the 4th time...last time I used the right stuff and steel gaskets as paper would break apart..F

  7. #57
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Jan 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamCapri View Post
    One thing to check: Are the posts in the distributor cap aluminum? I found that they corrode pretty quickly and cause weak spark. Made a trip for a job interview once upon a time. When I got home the engine was running so rough I was afraid to drive it. Found one spark plug with a carbon bridge from the center to ground. I blamed the gas that I bought but after cleaning plugs, they fouled up again. Found the corrosion problem in the cap along with the stupid original wire on the rotor being gone. New rotor with solid conductor and cap cleaning and all was good again. Did the cleanup every now and then until I finally found the MSD distributor cap has brass posts and lasts a lot longer.
    Not to get sidetracked, but this is 100% true. Several years back, the box stores around here stopped carrying the brass altogether (except for NAPA). Those aluminum-clad caps weren't worth a plug nickel. I'd have to pull them about once a week and clean em.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  8. #58

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    Yeah mines copper.. My chain has 5 degrees of movement. Ny brother did 2 chains on his bronco yearly as too much cam endplay causes the chain to stretch..I am not looking forward to leaving it till next spring.. damnit.. another summer of a crappy car.. you can not buy the thrust washer in Canada..
    Too bad a chev man rebuilt my engine as I bet 100% he did not know anything about the cam endplay...

  9. #59

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    I've had cars with well over 200k on a stock nylon coated single row timing chain. As the nylon breaks away, you are left with a ton of slack.

    My 86, I did the oil pan and noticed a ton of slack in the chain... You could almost touch the chain to itself at 350k miles. That car idled perfectly fine, as does my current 86 with about 240k miles on it. Maybe the slack is why I have to set my timing to 18* to get t to run good, but even EFI, it runs good.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  10. #60

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    I've had cars with well over 200k on a stock nylon coated single row timing chain. As the nylon breaks away, you are left with a ton of slack.

    My 86, I did the oil pan and noticed a ton of slack in the chain... You could almost touch the chain to itself at 350k miles. That car idled perfectly fine, as does my current 86 with about 240k miles on it. Maybe the slack is why I have to set my timing to 18* to get t to run good, but even EFI, it runs good.
    If your cam end play is correct yes.. mine is likely too loose and I have the blowes double roller... watch utube thunderhead289 he had the same problem.. vac drops from 14 to 11. Runs like crap..he had 8,000 miles on his when it went to crap.

  11. #61

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    I have 2000miles and have over 5 degrees movement on the crank b4 the rotor turns... maybe blowes timing chains suck too..

  12. #62

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    Going to get a rollermaster 200usd timing chain set German iwis chain. After reading for days thats the only set to buy. Cloyes comp cams summit all junk with chinese chains ok if you never drive anywhere or have low comp and hp.. but heck even a near stock 302 is on chain #3... I will be on #2 but going for quality as not replacing every 3 years.. I hardly drove the car... if your going after tuning issues I suggest everyone to grab a 15/16" socket and a 2 inch extension on a breaker bar. Turn your engine to tdc #1 and rock it back and forth.. watch your rotor.. if it has slop your chain is junk plain and simple.
    Last edited by 78futura; 08-12-2020 at 08:12 PM.

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