Close



Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Heater Valve

  1. #1

    Default Heater Valve

    In the process of rebuilding my HVAC system with a NOS heater core. Had a thought on how to make it last as long as possible (have the restrictor). Has anyone tried a manual shutoff valve fitting on the intake manifold?

    Have one of these on my '56 ford truck to shut off flow to the core during summer months (10 out of 12 down in Central TX).
    Name:  Screen Shot 2020-06-30 at 10.40.04 AM.png
Views: 147
Size:  82.9 KB

    Does anyone happen to know the thread size on the heater hose fitting on windsor intakes? One above is 3/8" pipe thread.

    As always, any ideas or recommendations welcome. Trying to keep dash removals to a minimum for the foreseeable future

    Thanks!
    Kent
    84.5 GT Convertible Build Thread
    86 LX Coupe

  2. #2

    Default

    Yeah that kind of makes sense if you don't need any flow through the heater core. Not sure how precision you could adjust the flow with that type of valve to function as a restrictor but perhaps just use it as an on/off and also put in the restrictor.

    Up here where I'm at we need the opposite...heat 10 or 11 months of the year summer car or not LOL !!

    Regardless the heater core gets very hot and still radiates heat under the dash despite wherever the blend door is set...so good idea to completely eliminate that if you can etc.

    I believe all the intakes I have seen are 1/2 NPT although I have an old edelbrock F4B that is 3/8 NPT

  3. #3

    Default

    Sorry I do not know the thread size of that port but I love those. It also keeps the inside of these not exactly precision-made Foxes a lot more cool inside in the summer. Personally, I prefer the OEM ones. To me, they look a little more professional and not so "Home Depot-ee" and err... backyard, if that makes sense. There are vacuum operated and cable operated ones. Until I just now looked, all the OEM ones I have ever seen are more of a bypass than a Dead-head. So the coolant is returned back to another port and continues to flow, it just bypasses the core.

    Ford put those on a lot of cars. Rock Auto is a good source for these. I know the mid 2000s Ford Ranger has one. My Ranger has the 4 port unit but I just now saw that some Rangers also have a 2 port that would work for what you want. Just hook it up to a vacuum line and you can control it inside the cabin. Look at the Four Season 74859 in the link below.

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ter+valve,6860
    Last edited by homer302; 07-03-2020 at 02:53 PM.

  4. #4

    Default

    Yes bypassing would probably work too.

    Interesting I never thought of an actuated valve to control this but may be a good idea. I wonder if you could rig up a line to one of the vacuum motors under the dash...say perhaps something when selecting max AC and either block it off or bypass it (would help etc)

    I assume the four port system would isolate the heater core and bypass it ?

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Sorry I do not know the thread size of that port but I love those. It also keeps the inside of these not exactly precision-made Foxes a lot more cool inside in the summer. Personally, I prefer the OEM ones. To me, they look a little more professional and not so "Home Depot-ee" and err... backyard, if that makes sense. There are vacuum operated and cable operated ones. Until I just now looked, all the OEM ones I have ever seen are more of a bypass than a Dead-head. So the coolant is returned back to another port and continues to flow, it just bypasses the core.

    Ford put those on a lot of cars. Rock Auto is a good source for these. I know the mid 2000s Ford Ranger has one. My Ranger has the 4 port unit but I just now saw that some Rangers also have a 2 port that would work for what you want. Just hook it up to a vacuum line and you can control it inside the cabin. Look at the Four Season 74859 in the link below.

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ter+valve,6860
    Thanks for the suggestion, Homer. I’d seen those valves before. My only concern is how to get it to operate without adding an additional switch/control to operate it.

    I’d really like to be able to shut off flow to the core unless the heat is turned on. Totally agree with that manual valve not looking correct on these cars.

    If the four seasons valve defaults closed and only opens with vacuum applied, that would probably be the best option. Anybody mess with those? Know how they operate?

    Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    84.5 GT Convertible Build Thread
    86 LX Coupe

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,207

    Default

    My 2004 Super Duty has one of the vacuum operated units for the heater. I believe it defaults to closed, but I would have to double check since I haven't really messed with it recently.

    Here's an option if you don't want cables or vacuum, although not the cheapest. https://www.oldairproducts.com/produ...ve-kit-50-1555
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    My 2004 Super Duty has one of the vacuum operated units for the heater. I believe it defaults to closed, but I would have to double check since I haven't really messed with it recently.

    Here's an option if you don't want cables or vacuum, although not the cheapest. https://www.oldairproducts.com/produ...ve-kit-50-1555
    Looks like a nice piece. Seems like it might take up a lot of real estate on the passenger side.... interesting though. Thanks for the link


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    84.5 GT Convertible Build Thread
    86 LX Coupe

  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,207

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by graphicdesigner80 View Post
    Looks like a nice piece. Seems like it might take up a lot of real estate on the passenger side.... interesting though. Thanks for the link

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I bet you could mount it either on the firewall behind the engine or on the passenger area near the Evap core and make it all work if that is the way you choose to go. Looking at the way the routing goes, it appears it would be relatively simple at least at first glance.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I bet you could mount it either on the firewall behind the engine or on the passenger area near the Evap core and make it all work if that is the way you choose to go. Looking at the way the routing goes, it appears it would be relatively simple at least at first glance.
    That’s true. No smog equipment to deal with taking up room in that area either.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    84.5 GT Convertible Build Thread
    86 LX Coupe

  10. #10

    Default

    This is what I use on my 83-85 stock Ford intakes, works like a champ.

    Name:  Screen Shot 2020-07-06 at 11.39.03 AM.png
Views: 75
Size:  358.0 KB
    79 Capri RS 5.0/AOD | 82 CHP SSP #0513 5.0/SROD | 82 Capri Tu-Tone 4.2/C5 | 83 NCSHP SSP 5.0/SROD
    84 FHP SSP 5.0/T5 | 84 LTD Wagon 3.8/AOD | 85 LTD LX 5.0/AOD | 88 GT 5.0 Turbo/T5

  11. #11

    Default

    Name:  1D13F228-8097-4F31-A554-B340DE7AF186.jpg
Views: 67
Size:  64.4 KB anyone ever tried one of these? Im not sure if it allows backflow into heater core or how this one works.

  12. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mustangpro View Post
    This is what I use on my 83-85 stock Ford intakes, works like a champ.

    Name:  Screen Shot 2020-07-06 at 11.39.03 AM.png
Views: 75
Size:  358.0 KB
    Appreciate the info on that, mustangpro!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bbtwice View Post
    Name:  1D13F228-8097-4F31-A554-B340DE7AF186.jpg
Views: 67
Size:  64.4 KB anyone ever tried one of these? Im not sure if it allows backflow into heater core or how this one works.
    Very interesting - especially for the price-point. Appreciate the suggestion, Bbtwice! Will check it out.
    84.5 GT Convertible Build Thread
    86 LX Coupe

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •