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  1. #1
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    Default Fuel line question

    On an 86 Mustang, 3.8 where do the fuel lines transition from the steel lines to the nylon lines going into the engine compartment?

    Need to redo ours for a 5.0 swap and would like to do them as 1 piece instead of splicing.


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  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by 86lx View Post
    On an 86 Mustang, 3.8 where do the fuel lines transition from the steel lines to the nylon lines going into the engine compartment?

    Need to redo ours for a 5.0 swap and would like to do them as 1 piece instead of splicing.


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    On the stock 302 there is splice at the bottom of the car near the k member.

    As much as I dont like the idea of splicing them, one winter I was driving after a long snow storm, and a big chunk of ice broke loose from my front wheel well and jammed under the car and broke a fuel line.

    I got about a 5/16 barbed fitting and threw some hose clamps on it just hoping to get by until better weather and honestly I've forgotten all about it. Havent noticed a leak and I've probably driven 100k miles since without issue.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    On the stock 302 there is splice at the bottom of the car near the k member.

    As much as I dont like the idea of splicing them, one winter I was driving after a long snow storm, and a big chunk of ice broke loose from my front wheel well and jammed under the car and broke a fuel line.

    I got about a 5/16 barbed fitting and threw some hose clamps on it just hoping to get by until better weather and honestly I've forgotten all about it. Havent noticed a leak and I've probably driven 100k miles since without issue.
    Thanks for the input. On the 3.8 cars they come into the engine bay behind the passenger’s side strut tower. They are nylon/rubber at that point, so I expect they transition from steel inside the fender, I just haven’t pulled the liner yet to verify.

    We did try spicing, but did not have enough length for the return line and it ended up kinking. Redoing them completely will allow me to run them farther away from the header.

    I wanted to do braided with AN fittings, but that is cost prohibitive right now, so they will be nylon covered with 3/8 rubber hose.


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  4. #4

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    Use Oetiker clamps and high pressure fuel hose and it'll never come adrift, ever. The transition point is inside the fender liner and goes down near the frame rail.
    Last edited by 4eyedblind; 06-22-2020 at 10:15 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4eyedblind View Post
    Use Oetiker clamps and high pressure fuel hose and it'll never come adrift, ever. The transition point is inside the fender liner and goes down near the frame rail.
    Thanks. I bought (2) 10’ rolls of the nylon line. I plan to run it through 3/8” hose for extra protection from any abrasions.

    I’m going to run it up over the strut mount and back down the other side to keep it well away from the header.


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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4eyedblind View Post
    Use Oetiker clamps and high pressure fuel hose and it'll never come adrift, ever. The transition point is inside the fender liner and goes down near the frame rail.
    This is what I’m doing next time. Pushing that nylon line onto the hard lines is a complete pain in the ass.


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  7. #7

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    That's why I used the fuel line hose. You have to get the nylon line to just the right temp and quickly slip it on the barbs. It's kind of like roasting a marshmallow....1 second too much and it bubbles and it cools off super quick.

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