Close



Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 51 to 75 of 75
  1. #51
    Stanger86
    Guest

    Default

    Ok, so I got the engine back together and it will not start now. Are there any sensors that could have gone out by running the antifreeze through my engine? I know the timing is right and I know it's getting fuel because I can smell it. It turns over fine and dosen't make any crazy noises or anything. Could the vane meter cause it not to start because I noticed when I changed the gasket to it that it was pretty wet inside so I dried it out. This really sucks I hate damn electronics I knew I should have just changed it to carb. Somebody please help me.

    - Chad

  2. #52
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Salinas, California
    Posts
    250

    Default Re: head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by plstktnkr2
    ok I'm not tryin' to be smart or funny, but if you all thought this was a bad gasket ,why wasn't it suggested to do a compression check? and if 2 cylinders(side by side) were low it would show a bad gasket?
    just asking
    I'm pretty sure i suggested checking compression but i'm at work and don't have time to search for my post. it should have shown something was up if one was done.

  3. #53
    FEP Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    848

    Default

    Well... if it's turning over and it's got fuel pressure... Have you checked for spark yet?
    Old Heavyweight Large Body Platform, two Muscle powered feet, that get traction from a set of size 12 generic shoes. Needs alot of bodywork, and hard to start in the morning... Used to be alot faster, but now does the 1/4 in 330sec at 2.7 mph.

  4. #54
    Stanger86
    Guest

    Default

    Got spark in every cylinder....

  5. #55
    Stanger86
    Guest

    Default

    help please

  6. #56

    Default

    Its back to basics:
    -timing
    -compression
    -fuel
    -spark

  7. #57
    Stanger86
    Guest

    Default

    I have checked all of those. I mean timing is as good as I can tell without it starting. I can smell the fuel and I pushed the valve and fuel shot out. I tested each wire at the plug end and got spark. I suppose the only thing left I could do would check compression I hope I can find my compression tester. What should it read? What would cause the compression to be low after I just replaced the head gasket?

    - Chad

  8. #58
    jazzcat2001
    Guest

    Default

    bad coil? are you sure that the motor was at tdc when you dropped the distributor in?

  9. #59
    Stanger86
    Guest

    Default

    If it was a bad coil it wouldn't have spark would it? It did shock me a few times while checking for spark and it didn't seem any less than normal. Just for a good laugh for everybody when I was testing it my ass was a little close to the propane tank and the spark went through my ass to the tank , that was an iteresting feeling let me tell you. To find TDC I did the ol finger blowing out of the hole trick and then put the distributor in so the rotor was on 1.

    - Chad

  10. #60
    FEP Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    848

    Default

    Yeah... Zap said it...

    Quote Originally Posted by Zap
    Its back to basics:
    -timing
    -compression
    -fuel
    -spark
    Couple of questions... do you hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds and stop when you turn your key to "Run" position? How did your Spark Plugs look?

    Since you say the timing, fuel, and spark is there... a compression check wouldnt hurt...
    Old Heavyweight Large Body Platform, two Muscle powered feet, that get traction from a set of size 12 generic shoes. Needs alot of bodywork, and hard to start in the morning... Used to be alot faster, but now does the 1/4 in 330sec at 2.7 mph.

  11. #61
    Stanger86
    Guest

    Default

    Yes fuel pump runs. Spark plugs are brand new bosch platinum. Will do compression check in the morning.

  12. #62
    Stanger86
    Guest

    Default

    What should the compression be? If the comp. checks out fine what else could be causing this?

  13. #63

    Default

    Compression numbers arent that important as long as they are within 5-10% for all 8 cyl's. You should get at least 120psi for a decent running engine. Any lower and things start becoming aparent like worn valves and rings. I dont think thats your problem though.

    Looks like you are going to need to figure this out on your own. You've messed with too many things at once to steer you in any specific direction with certainty.

    You're getting fuel, spark and I'm betting decent compression. All thats left is timing. Tont take guesses for granted. Remove the spout connector and set base timing with someone cranking over the engine. And make sure the firing order is correct one more time.

  14. #64
    Stanger86
    Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Zap's 85 GT
    Remove the spout connector and set base timing with someone cranking over the engine. And make sure the firing order is correct one more time.
    Uhhhhhh spout connector???? What the hell is that? Please explain how to set base timing I never learned how to do that or maybe I did and it was explained differently. Thanks

    - Chad

  15. #65

    Default

    OK, on the wires going to the TFI module near the distributor there will be a little plastic conector looking thing just hanging there. All it is is a jumper between two wires. When you pull out the plactic jumper connector all it does is removes all the timing advance put in by the computer. Essentially the same thing that disconnecting the vacuum line to a traditional vacuum advance canister on the distributor before you set the timing. That little jumper/plug is called the spout connector. You must remove it to set your base timing or the computer will have the timing marks moving all over the place while you're trying to set it, and the timing will be very far advanced over what it should be. After you set the base timing to 10deg and lock down the distributor, you plug back in the spout connector and you're done.

  16. #66
    Stanger86
    Guest

    Default

    Ok so I got the timing fixed and it fired right up. didn't have a halper so I just kept pull the distributor and moving it back to the next spot it would drop in and then try it. Eventually it fired right up but......... IT STILL SMOKES LIKE CRAZY!!! Do you think maybe I just have to burn all that old antifreeze out or what? It blows out white smoke extremely bad. I just noticed a big puddle of oil underneath and it looks like it's pouring out from the head gasket. WTF??

  17. #67
    Stanger86
    Guest

    Default

    So I just did a compression check and the results are

    1 = 120 psi
    2 = 90 psi
    3 = 85 psi
    4 = 115 psi
    5 = 70 psi
    6 = 119 psi
    7 = 120 psi
    8 = 80 psi

    the blow out was between 5 and 6. I' m gonna take it apart and retorque them now.

  18. #68

    Default

    Make sure the throttle body is fully open when youre doing the compression check. If not you're numbers will be low and inconsistant.

  19. #69
    Stanger86
    Guest

    Default

    I found that out. I took the whole damn thing apart and retorqued everything because of those damn numbers. Well anywayz everything is back together and running pretty good. I finally found my scanner and plugged it in. I got a code 23, 33, and 42. 42 being that the o2 sensor is stuck on rich so that's why it has alot of white smoke. These scanners can be pretty damn helpful. Also 33 indicates that the egr is not opening. Probally gotta get a new one of those too. 23 indicates TPS signal voltage is out of self test range. Don't quite know about that one. Other than that it is running really smooth and actually drives half-way descent except for the o2 sensor issue.

    - Chad

  20. #70
    FEP Power Member white1983GT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Dothan, Al
    Posts
    1,369

    Default

    sounds like you're almost there,...glad to see you are still at it, a weaker person would have given up by now.
    1985 Mustang 5.0 coupe - dad's
    1983 Mustang GT sold deeply missed
    1981 Mercury Capri sold, not so missed (too far gone)
    1991 LX 5.0 vert sold
    2000 GT 75 mm TB, PP upper plenum, CAI, x pipe w/flows, SCT xcal 2 with a BAMAchips custom tune

  21. #71
    Venomous Moderator Hissing Cobra's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Wareham, Massachusetts
    Posts
    9,721

    Default

    Yeah, hang in there and keep going. Let us know how you're making out. Good luck!
    Pete Slaney

    1979 Mustang Cobra

    347/T-5/4.30's
    420 rwhp/380 rwt (New Motor)
    11.49 @ 121.86

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38

  22. #72

    Default

    I'm surprise you're between the computer and the car so much with all these updates.

  23. #73
    FEP Power Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Commerce City, CO
    Posts
    1,073

    Default

    I just noticed a big puddle of oil underneath and it looks like it's pouring out from the head gasket. WTF??
    What was up with that?
    1979 Mustang pace car
    1986 LX coupe

  24. #74
    Stanger86
    Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RACECAP97
    I just noticed a big puddle of oil underneath and it looks like it's pouring out from the head gasket. WTF??
    What was up with that?
    Improperly installed valve cover gasket

  25. #75
    Stanger86
    Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Zap's 85 GT
    I'm surprise you're between the computer and the car so much with all these updates.
    It's always nice to be able to talk with other people and get evrybodys opinion on what to do. That what these forums are for right. I love this place. Thanks to evrybody that gave thier 2 sense on everything.

    - Chad

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •