Motor mount issue?

[richpet]

I tried searching, but didn't find much very recent.

Tried installing the 302 block (it's a 1970 year block) in the '81 Granada. I think I bought convertible mounts. I ground off the locating nub.

The mounts appear to be too 'thin'. With it sitting with both posts through the crossmember the mount surface is about 1/2" above the crossmember. And it appears to be all the way down. Thinking I should buy a set of non convertible mounts for say a 1989 GT? I found a pair made by Anchor. And Autozone has ones by MRC as well as their Duralast brand.

Or...

Should a buy a set of mounts that would have bolted the original 255 in the frame? In other words, a stock set of 1981 Granada V8 mounts? But when I look on-line those 255 mounts just don't look right.

Or....

Do I need a spacer of some type between the mount and crossmember?

We tried elongating the holes where they bolt to the block to move the mount slightly 'out' but to no avail.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Looking online the style (according to the pics) seems to change drastically. My block accepted the convertible mounts perfectly, the stock ones for a hatchback just look odd. Unless the pics are not accurate.

Maybe I will also post this in the other fox tech area too.

[5.0 bird]

Those Anchor Mustang convertible mounts really need the locating dowels to help support the motor. The rubber isn't strong enough so they twist and bottom out especially on the driver's side. When we dropped the 302 in the Tbird I had to stick a pry bar in the mount and twist it straight so the dowel would go in the hole in the k member on the driver's side.

But your Granada being an '81 I'm guessing your k member doesn't have dowel holes. If you don't wanna drill the holes you can use 84-92 Mustang coupe motor mounts, but you'll need the metal brackets that attach them to the block. Mustang coupe mounts don't have dowels.

[richpet]

I may need to source those brackets then. I just remember in the past that if one used the convertible mounts that nub had to be ground off. I thought.

Think I will ask Mr Google about those brackets.

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[richpet]

Confused. I look at pics online and it shows the mount- bolted to the block and through the k-member as one piece. Exactly what I thought I bought (I bought convertible mounts).

I don't remember the motor mount being a two piece deal, but this is the first one I've done in a long long time. By two piece I mean a bracket bolts to the block and the mount bolts to that bracket.

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[richpet]

I think this is what I need.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/87-93-Ford-...wAAOSwkNZUpvGA

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[5.0 bird]

Yea those are the brackets for the Mustang coupe motor mounts.

[wraithracing]

I assume the same is true for the Granada K member as the Mustang/Capri. The 79-83 K member has shorter slots than the 84-93 K members do. That is the reason the motor mounts are sitting above the K member and will not rest flat. Using a drill and or die grinder you need to length and slightly enlarge the slots in the K member to use the convertible mounts. As stated you can also drill the hole for the rivet on the mounts rather than grind them off the mounts, but you have already done that.

Personally I used the vert mounts on all my cars and as long as I slot the K member holes and drill the locating nub hole I have never had an issue installing an engine in any of my early 4 Eyes. I have at least one or two sets of the old style engine mount brackets if you prefer to go that route. Personally I would not, but I am stubborn that way.

[richpet]

So, I thought I remembered something like that! All I remember is my dad and I fighting it the first time, but that was a real long time ago.

Thank you, Trey!!

Do you recall how far down those holes need to go? I an guessing 1/2 - 3/4 inch?

So here are the mount pads with my line drawn. My only concern is the power steering lines interfering with the stud/nut

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[richpet]

I will be getting new convertible mounts anyway. Don't ask... LOL! So I will just drill the hole for the nubbin.

But if you recall about how far you had to lengthen it, that would be great. I know a bit too long is ok as the pads will sit flat anyway, but prefer to leave as much metal as possible.

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[wraithracing]

I should be able to measure one of my spare K members this weekend and get you a measurement off that. I can also try and check out my PC that I had to do the same modification to many years ago and see.

I honestly think I used a 1/2" drill bit and just drilled a new hole at the bottom of the existing slot and using a die grinder cleaned everything up and that worked out pretty well. The driver side motor mount nut is close to the PS rack, but it does clear. I generally have to either use a short sock and swivel to tighten or just us a box end ratching wrench and that does the trick. I will see what I can find later today if possible.

[richpet]

If you can, great, but now that I have been reminded about this I should be able to figure it out again. I was going to use my Dremel and a cut off wheel to take it down about 1/2 inch.
I also figure if I have to I can slightly tweak the metal ps line a bit. Or even pull the rack forward, install the mount nut on the stud, then reinstall the rack. Take a few minutes, but not hard.
Appreciate y'all reminding me of all this stuff I forgot. Or never knew.

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[richpet]

Done! Went 1/2" down. Used a file to widen until the stud fit through easily, but not sloppily.



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